The Official 356Talk Forum

Your car is looking really nice .

A small update and a couple milestones accomplished. Brakes tested, front end all greased up after brake and suspension rebuild. Road test will have to wait until spring, but she'll be back on the road in May. Only the starter and sorting out the steering is left. The starter is away for rebuild and the steering must be road tested, if the box is shot I am going for a TRW unit and the 24 mm VW pitman arm.

New wheels came in from Italy, they will be dressed up with Vredestein sprints. Very tempted to mount them but I am waiting for a wheel balancing adapter to avoid mounting them twice.

Moving the exhaust up into the valence was a good idea as the ground clearance when the pipes run under is minimal. Probably why Porsche later routed the exhaust higher up through the bumper guards. Looks like a 716 or more likely a 741 with a 644 nose piece and shift rails.

Nice shop and cave Trond. great car(s) too.

Thanks!, and yes, the transmission is #79420 and as I learnt from this thread a mix of old and newer parts.

The body, doors, hoods seem to be all '56 but engine is a 1600S from a T5, later transmission, alu repro Speedster seatshells from Holland, seat covers from Autos Int., the lexan windows came with the car, has the markings but may be repro, Weberkit from Redline, alu wheels from Italy and so on. It is the opposit of my 63 coupe which seem to be all original. Its a neat car though, the floors' been replaced but the rest of it seem to be original and free of rust.

The garage/cave is my retirement project/plan, I'll keep fixing it up and make it comfortable. Mid 2030's it must be finished, thats when I'll go fulltime on my (new) career.

Had the tires mounted to wheels and trial fitted wheels, looks like I have to change wheelbolts.

The rear wheels are slightly in contact with the lower shocks and I have to install 15 mm or 1/2" spacers. Perhaps the KYB shock is the problem, the lower mount seen somewhat larger than eg a Koni.

I need approx. 3 mm for the bolt to come through the wheel nut for the tecnomagneiso wheel, on top of that I may have to add 15mm for a wheel spacer.

What bolt lengths do we have available for the 356?

Problem may be solved, the bottom mount on my shock (Shock Absorber-Excel-G Rear KYB 343147) has protrusions and it is the inner edge that get in contact with the wheel, KYB has photos of these with and without the protrusion.

I see these are listed as a Porsche 356 shock but fit a lot of cars, have to measure on my 63 coupe but if there were no protrusions and I get 2 mm or so that may be enough.




Eg a BOGE/Sachs shock


This photo from the forum seem to have a much smaller bottom shock mount.

Went on installing 20 mm Carrera spacers and ended up with about a cemtimeter from tire to fender in the rear.
Not sure whether this is enough but suppose it is, else I will be getting the half inch spacers from NLA.

Mounting the aluminum wheels involved pressing in new wheel studs, this was straightforward using the hydraulic press.

Only problem was slight contact between front brakeshoe's springcup and wheel stud. Had to put a 1 mm shim on the brake cotter pins,mMaybe a 356 stud would have eliminated the problem. I used 911 studs and they do have a higher head on the stud.

The wheels look good on the car, I still have to lower the car another 10-15 mm in the front.

Well, another 2 years and we are getting somewhat closer. I had installed the 40 IDF kit but the linkage never got right, combined with lousy starter response I have decided to do a 12 volt conversion and reinstall the NDIX carbs. I'd love to use 6 volt for originality but the car is not very original and I'd rather see it back on the roads than debugging the 6 volt system further. I'll follow this "May 1997" article from the member magazine:
https://s3.amazonaws.com/porsche356regi ... ersion.pdf

Am considering a "dynator" from WOSP or source a rebuilt/good working 12 Volt generator. I see the rebuilt generators from various sources, is there someone that can be recommended?

Overwhelmed by the response I decided to go with a remanufactured 12 Volt generator. These can be had for approx 330 Euro over here, "no core needed". Decided to clean up the engine sheet metal and odd pieces at the same time.

My 12 volt generator is now on its way from Germany, found a used 30A VW regulator in my spares, but have that mexican bosch solid state regulator on its way if the old VW unit fail.

Wiped off the 1600S (1960 3 pcs match engine # 85672 just in case someone ever needed it to complete their car. )


Powder coated the lid.


The sheet metal blasted with glass and POR15 brushed on, it floats out nicely.


Fan shroud cleaned, pressure washed and blasted with glass media. This one will be silver and I am trying to find "the right color".


Oil cooler washed in kerosene, followed by 45 minutes in the ultrasound washer and finally flushed with clean kerosene. Getting the shroud off or back on is a tight fit but if cooler is put into the shroud before installation it can be installed together. Shroud held up with 2 wooden pieces (or the hands of a friend/helper) while mounting the cooler.

Am ordering LED bulbs for front marker-flash light and rear lamps. Was thinking about buying the new 12 volt VDO repro instruments instead of the original items but if the originals are fine I may stick with them.

The repros look great though, they are crisp and light up the dashboard at night. With a little luck it'll be running in June, shakedown early July and then registered.

Moving forward.. I installed a 12 volt dynamo and will be using a solid state regulator. I suppose I have to split out wire 61, it was together with DF if I remember right.
Am using a connector block but for testing this will do, looking correct?

One thing to remember. When the generator is charging, the whole case is live with 12 volts! Don't know why.

Vic Skirmants wrote: ↑Mon Jul 15, 2019 7:44 am One thing to remember. When the generator is charging, the whole case is live with 12 volts! Don't know why.

?????? Wouldn't the case be grounded and that sounds like a dead short.

Thanks, I do have an old VW reg as well but the new generator is 30A so they need to match I guess.
Yes, the D+ go straight to the outer cover, the inner is separated by a thick clad of epoxy.

I am considering finding a plastic house that fit and slice it for the wiring. Maybe "redesign" the bracket and fit regulator into something like this. Drill out a few holes for cooling perhaps.

Check WCSTA-06-56 T1 Post #44 for a picture of how I did it.

Yikes, Vic, I didn't know the Bosch solid state regulator case is hot! That seems crazy to me!