Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

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Bill Sargent
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#346 Post by Bill Sargent »

Gregory knows I am Porsche deprived here in Beijing so he sent me a teaser photo of the new pushrod 90 degree V drive on his Faux Cam motor. So here we have Faux Cam:
Gregory's Faux Cam  motor with the 90 degree V drive body and some distributors on the motor for a photo op.
Gregory's Faux Cam motor with the 90 degree V drive body and some distributors on the motor for a photo op.
and Four Cam:
2 liter 4 cam motor ready to install
2 liter 4 cam motor ready to install
The sharp eyed among you will notice that the faux V drive distributors rid on the opposite side of the shaft to the real 4 cam. Needed to have the pushrod distributors rotate in the correct direction. Proof of concept is the motor in Al Lager's Abarth Carrera recreation. Now see Nigel's manifolds on his motor.
Nigel's faux cam motor with the new intake manifolds and the crank fire faux narrow V drive.
Nigel's faux cam motor with the new intake manifolds and the crank fire faux narrow V drive.
Notice how the carbs on the faux cam motor with stock Solex manifolds sit a little more outboard than on the 4 cam. This was the motivation for Nigel's new manifold set up, plus the ability to go stealth fuel injected inside the cam boxes.
Thanks for following along and Enjoy. Hope to see many of you at Rennsport Reunion V :)!
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
#460603 67 912
904 clone in the works

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Bill Sargent
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#347 Post by Bill Sargent »

We had a GREAT time at Rennsport Reunion V this weekend. I got to see many old friends, LOTS of cool cars and took delivery of some parts for the 4 cam motor. Gregory took second in the Gumund Cup with his Devin speedster and got a large trophy. He also came in 5th in class with his 4 cam Elva, which does not sound too great until you understand that the only cars that beat him were the 12 cylinder 917s - all the 908s and 6 cylinder powered cars were behind him. Way go Gregory!

I got to take my car on the track for parade laps on Saturday and it was huge fun, even if we did not go over 70 MPH down the main straight. The Corkscrew is fantastic and the 4 cam motor ran perfectly after Ralfy's dyno tuning!
Coming into the Corkscrew ...
Coming into the Corkscrew ...
And out of the Corkscrew in one piece!
And out of the Corkscrew in one piece!
After the racing on Saturday Gregory pulled out the pushrod V drive so I could have a look. Since I last spoke with him he had installed the distributor drive shafts, the oil inlet/outlet fittings and the distributor clamps. Everything look like it fits as designed. Once Gregory gets home to Vancouver he will make the end covers and figure out how to make the internal shaft.
This shot shows the front of the V drive with distributors mounted.  The splined shaft to the left will be used to make the T drive - DIN 563 shaft.  The pushrod distributor drive gear normally found on the crank is also shown.  the bearing with the shaft in the middle is a length of internally splined shaft the same diameter as the ends of our internal shaft.  We need to figure out how to get a ~ 45 mm OD section in the middle.  46mm OD internally splined stock is about $2,800 for 30 cm ...... so we are looking for a more creative way to make the shaft.  You can buy a 30 mm long x 30 mm OD internally splined bushing on Amazon for $100, so we are thinking on how this might be jointed to some larger bar stock.
This shot shows the front of the V drive with distributors mounted. The splined shaft to the left will be used to make the T drive - DIN 563 shaft. The pushrod distributor drive gear normally found on the crank is also shown. the bearing with the shaft in the middle is a length of internally splined shaft the same diameter as the ends of our internal shaft. We need to figure out how to get a ~ 45 mm OD section in the middle. 46mm OD internally splined stock is about $2,800 for 30 cm ...... so we are looking for a more creative way to make the shaft. You can buy a 30 mm long x 30 mm OD internally splined bushing on Amazon for $100, so we are thinking on how this might be jointed to some larger bar stock.
And here is the rear of the V drive.  You can see the gears on the pushrod distributor drive shafts.  This is the reason the tubes housing the distributors are longer than on a 4 cam V drive.  We will also need to limit the advance on the pushrod distributors for the twin plug motor.  The black oil inlet fitting hole has space under the fitting for a 9mm diameter plug that will have about a 1.5 mm hole in it to restrict the amount of oil going into the V drive.  The silver fitting is oil out and is basically a drain.  Both oil in and out will be plumbed into the dry sump pump.
And here is the rear of the V drive. You can see the gears on the pushrod distributor drive shafts. This is the reason the tubes housing the distributors are longer than on a 4 cam V drive. We will also need to limit the advance on the pushrod distributors for the twin plug motor. The black oil inlet fitting hole has space under the fitting for a 9mm diameter plug that will have about a 1.5 mm hole in it to restrict the amount of oil going into the V drive. The silver fitting is oil out and is basically a drain. Both oil in and out will be plumbed into the dry sump pump.
And here is a close up of the distributor drive shaft gears in the V drive body.  Geometry is same as a normal 356 - just 2X.
And here is a close up of the distributor drive shaft gears in the V drive body. Geometry is same as a normal 356 - just 2X.
Gregory will be able to work more on the V drive over the next couple of months so hopefully before Christmas we may have it running on a motor on the dyno.

Thanks for following along!
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
#460603 67 912
904 clone in the works

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Jim Nelson
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#348 Post by Jim Nelson »

Hi Bill--Out of curiosity, why did you choose the V-drive instead of the "two off the end of the cam banks" distributor drive?

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Bill Sargent
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#349 Post by Bill Sargent »

Hi Jim,

The V drive is for use on pushrod motors, so only 1 cam that is not accessable. Not shown is a mount "bowl" that mounts to the pushrod 3rd piece studs. The V drive body in turn mounts on it. When complete it will allow twin plug operation of a pushrod motor that has a 4cam cooling shroud mounted on the case. In this configuration there is not enough room for Ron LaDow's twin distributor set up or John Wilhoit's 8 wire single distributor.
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
#460603 67 912
904 clone in the works

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Jim Nelson
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#350 Post by Jim Nelson »

Argh, I hate when I ask dumb questions….

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Bill Sargent
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#351 Post by Bill Sargent »

Gregory got back from Rennsport Reunion (and a second place finish in the Gumund Cup race) and was able to do a trial "spin" (literally) of the pushrod V drive - and it worked :D :D :D . He made up a dummy shaft using a 20 mm OD x 40 mm long internally splined shaft with the proper DIN 5463 internal splines and some some additional bar stock. He then press fit the distributor drive gear, added the bearings and used his drill to spin the assembly. The drill had a piece of externally spline DIN 5463 shaft in the chuck to fit in the female spline of the drive shaft. He send me a nice slow motion video of the drive spinning the distributors at about 3000 RPM but unfortunately I can not post movies here, so a screen grab will give you an idea of the test rig (yes, Dr. Fuhrman would be horrified).
V Drive Trial Spin - 19Oct15.jpg
Next step will be to figure out how to mate the large diameter bar stock needed to mount the drive gear to the piece of 20 mm OD x 40 mm long internally splined shaft. The internal shaft design calls for 40 mm of internal splines and a counter bore about 1 mm larger than the "ID" of the splines that is 27 mm long. Total shaft length is 67 mm. We considered purchase of a custom internally splined shaft that was 46 mm OD by 70 mm long to make the shaft all one piece. Problem was the cost - $2,800 for enough to make 6 shafts or about $470/shaft, not including machining. We can get the 20 mm OD x 40 mm long internally splined shaft from Amazon for about $100 each. 2 inch steel bar stock is cheap. Just need to mate the two and do some machining. Gregory can do the machining on the prototype so this will keep the cost down. Drawings from the CAD program for parts to be made are shown below:
Internal Drive shaft.
Internal Drive shaft.
Drive Shaft.jpg (31.31 KiB) Viewed 6173 times
Inner End Cap - carries the bearing for the shaft as well as the oil seal.
Inner End Cap - carries the bearing for the shaft as well as the oil seal.
Outer End Cap - carries only the oil seal.  The bearing resides in the V drive body on this end.  Shims are used outboard of the bearings on each end for pre load and also to center the distributor drive gear on the shaft with respect to the two distributor drive shafts.
Outer End Cap - carries only the oil seal. The bearing resides in the V drive body on this end. Shims are used outboard of the bearings on each end for pre load and also to center the distributor drive gear on the shaft with respect to the two distributor drive shafts.
Once these parts are built and Gregory does another "spin" test to confirm things the next step is to have the mount bowl that bolts to the pushrod motor 3rd piece machined. This is what the V drive body mounts to.

Thanks for following along!

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Bill Sargent
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#352 Post by Bill Sargent »

A little more progress to show. Included below is a photo of the prototype internal drive shaft for the V drive. Gregory found an off the shelf (on Amazon) internally splined shaft 40 mm long and 20 mm OD. Internal splines were the correct DIN 5463 11 x 14. The design we have for the internal shaft has the internal splines exactly 40 mm long so this was perfect. Gregory then took some 2 inch bar stock and machined the larger center section that carries the distributor drive gear, machined a 20 mm hole in the middle of it and TIG welded the internally splined shaft in so it protruded the correct amount. On the other side he TIG welded on a smaller piece of bar stock and machined it to 20 mm OD with the correct internal smooth bore. The prototype does not have the keyway to hold the distributor drive gear in place. The gear is interference fit for now. And the groove for the large circlip, like on the crank, also needs to be added; but for proof of concept this works.
V Drive Internal Shaft Prototype - 30Oct15.jpeg
Based on the prototype I will modify the CAD drawing to have a portion of the shaft as shown in the drawing below made as one part with a hole slightly smaller than 20 mm to allow for an interference fit of the stock internally splined shaft. The internally splined shaft will then be TIG welded in place and the shoulder for the bearing machined from the TIG weld area.
V Drive internal shaft mods - 30Oct15.jpg
I also used the CAD software to make a drawing of the T drive shaft so that Gregory could make that part. The drawing was made from a stock 904 T bolt and the length will need to be adjusted for our application by shortening the length from the splines to the T end. The externally splined DIN 5463 shaft is also available on Amazon for about $100 per meter.
T Shaft - 904 version - View 1- 28Oct15.jpg
The next task for me is to modify the CAD file for the Drive Body mount frame. We decided to incorporate the inner end cap with the frame and eliminate the dowel pins since the "spiggot' of the end cap on the mount frame will center things axially.

Thanks for following along.
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
#460603 67 912
904 clone in the works

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Bill Sargent
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#353 Post by Bill Sargent »

A little more progress on the V drive mount and the internal parts. Gregory was able to machine the keyway on the shaft to hold the distributor drive gear, install the large circlip (same as goes on crank), partially machine the T shaft, machine the internal circlip groove and install the T shaft with spring etc. We need to have the mount frame complete to do a trial mount and determine the final length of the T shaft.
V Drive Internal shart with partially finished T shaft - 9Nov15.jpg
While Gregory was working on the internal parts I did the redesign in CAD to integrate the inner end cap for the drive body with the mount frame. We realized we did not need the dowel pins to locate the V drive body to the mount frame if we integrated the inner end cap with the mount frame. 4 less bolts, 2 fewer dowel pins and the same or better functionality. All part of the design process. The change to the installation process is that the holes to bolt the mount frame to the 4 studs on the motor will now need to be drilled based on measurements from the specific motor. With the dowel pins, these holes were going to be a little oversize to allow for centering the V drive on the crank axis. The dowel pin holes would then be drilled so the V drive could be removed and reinstalled with centering maintained.

I also modified the internal shaft for how it will actually be manufactured - a stock shaft 40mm long by 20 mm OD with female internal DIN 5463 splines purchased from Amazon and a CNC machined part that the stock shaft fits in and gets TIG welded to. The bearing shoulder is then machined from the TIG weld material that is built up. The only modifications to the V drive body were to lose the small knobs on the body where the dowel pins would have gone.
V Drive Mount with integrated inner end cap - 1.jpg
V Drive Mount with integrated inner end cap - 2.jpg
Only a couple of other fine tuning changes to make to the V drive mount in the CAD software and then we are ready to get it CNC machined. Thanks for following along!
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
#460603 67 912
904 clone in the works

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Bill Sargent
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#354 Post by Bill Sargent »

I mentioned a few posts ago that we encountered an unexpected problem at 5:30 am the morning after we completed the 4 cam motor install - the throttle cross bar interfered with the rain tray in the single grill 356 A engine lid. So the engine lid was about 1 inch from closing. We solved the problem temporarily by mounting the latch tang on the engine lid on some standoffs, so the lid latched but was open about 1 inch. You can see it in the photo below if you look closely at the engine lid.
Sargent Car at Bull Session.jpg
Before taking the car to Rennsport Reunion I wanted to be able to close the lid. There appeared to be 3 solutions - 1) find the early A Carrera throttle linkage that uses small bell cranks down by the case (either forward or rear of the fan shroud), or 2) Find a proper engine lid for a 59A Carrera - twin grills with no rain tray that clear the throttle cross bar, or 3) modify my existing engine lid. Solution 1 is very hard to find parts for and solution 2 is even more difficult. I therefore decided that modifying the engine lid was the best route (I have modified so many other things, why stop here?).

The simple solution looked to be removing a portion of the vertical rear end of the rain tray, which would then allow it to be bent up and re-welded. The photos below show the idea:
Engine Lid modification to clear 4 cam throttle cross bar Picture 1.jpg
Engine Lid modification to clear 4 cam throttle cross bar Picture 2.jpg
And here is a photo of the results. Very clean, and once painted I think most would not notice the rain tray has been modified. There is still clearance between the Carrera screen in the center of the rain tray and the grill as well as a small opening behind the latch tang. All in all an inexpensive fix.
Sectioned Rain Tray for Carrera.jpg
After Rennsport I also managed to find and purchase a pair of the Carrera coil resistor boxes. I will need to fabricate and weld the mount brackets to the existing coil brackets at some point when I have a shop of my own in the future. Thanks for following along!
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
#460603 67 912
904 clone in the works

M Penta
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#355 Post by M Penta »

Wow, now that's amazing!

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Bill Sargent
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#356 Post by Bill Sargent »

We made some more progress on the 90 degree V drive - Gregory got the mount bowl and outer end cap CNC machined and we are close to having a working prototype. The photos below show the V drive, outer end cap and mount bowl after Gregory machined the cut out in the bottom of the bowl to clear the dry sump oil pump. We knew that we would have to make a cut out, but chose to machine the full bowl and then make the cut manually. Gregory can now supply precise dimensions for the cut out to put into the CAD model.
CAD Model of the mount bowl
CAD Model of the mount bowl
And now the real thing.  You can see the cut out to clear the dry sump oil pump.
And now the real thing. You can see the cut out to clear the dry sump oil pump.
The breather fitting coming out of where the generator stand is normally attached will be replaced with a nice CNC machined 1 piece cover with the necessary fitting to connect to the breather hose.
The breather fitting coming out of where the generator stand is normally attached will be replaced with a nice CNC machined 1 piece cover with the necessary fitting to connect to the breather hose.
V Drive and Mount Bowl 1.jpg
Now that we have the part in our hands we plan to make a few modifications for the "production" version. The ID of the bowl is currently 140 mm and the crank pulley OD is 100 mm, same as on a normal 4 cam motor. The stock 4 cam V drive bowl has an ID of 127.5 MM, so we will reduce the ID of the bowl to this figure. This will in turn make the cut out to clear the dry sump oil pump a little smaller. We will also likely reduce the height of the mount frame to move the V drive body closer to the motor by a few mm. And last we will cut the mount frame "feet" down some to more closely follow the mount studs on the 3rd piece. This last change to the "feet" will be done manually on the prototype and then added to the CAD model.

Thanks for following along!
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
#460603 67 912
904 clone in the works

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Bill Sargent
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#357 Post by Bill Sargent »

In the last week Gregory made significant progress on getting the V drive mount frame mounted on the third piece. He also completed the T drive shaft and the whole assembly is now mounted on the motor with the oil line feeding the V drive body hooked up. Remaining is the outlet oil line. The series of photos below sows the progress. Should not be long before Gregory can fire the motor up and see how it runs.
Nice overall shot showing how the V drive mounts on the motor and nestles just above the dry sump oil pump.
Nice overall shot showing how the V drive mounts on the motor and nestles just above the dry sump oil pump.
View of the motor showing the oil lines around the dry sump oil pump and the small oil line T off the pressure pump discharge that feeds lube oil to the V drive body.  The V drive body has a small oil inlet restrictor plug (cylinder with 1.6 mm hole drilled in it) in the body like the normal 4 cam unit.  We expect that the size of this restrictor hole may need to be reduced in order not to overpressure the V drive body with oil.
View of the motor showing the oil lines around the dry sump oil pump and the small oil line T off the pressure pump discharge that feeds lube oil to the V drive body. The V drive body has a small oil inlet restrictor plug (cylinder with 1.6 mm hole drilled in it) in the body like the normal 4 cam unit. We expect that the size of this restrictor hole may need to be reduced in order not to overpressure the V drive body with oil.
Other side showing the fitting for oil from the pressure pump to re-enter the 3rd piece on the 3/4 cylinder side.
Other side showing the fitting for oil from the pressure pump to re-enter the 3rd piece on the 3/4 cylinder side.
photo from above where you can see the V drive mount bowl, V drive and how it fits on the 3rd piece.
photo from above where you can see the V drive mount bowl, V drive and how it fits on the 3rd piece.
Close up from above showing the 100mm (4") crank pulley needed for the 4 cam fan and how the V drive mount frame bowl fits.  You can also see the T drive shaft that fits in a slot in the crank pulley nut.  As mentioned in an earlier post we will reduce the ID of the bowl from 140 mm to 127.5 mm like the 4 cam V drive.  We may also be able to move the drive body a little closer to the crank pulley.
Close up from above showing the 100mm (4") crank pulley needed for the 4 cam fan and how the V drive mount frame bowl fits. You can also see the T drive shaft that fits in a slot in the crank pulley nut. As mentioned in an earlier post we will reduce the ID of the bowl from 140 mm to 127.5 mm like the 4 cam V drive. We may also be able to move the drive body a little closer to the crank pulley.
View of the T drive that fits into the slot on the pulley nut.  This shaft can be pulled out against spring pressure to allow a fan belt change.  Same set up as on 4 Cam motor.
View of the T drive that fits into the slot on the pulley nut. This shaft can be pulled out against spring pressure to allow a fan belt change. Same set up as on 4 Cam motor.
Nice shot showing how the V drive mounts to the 3rd piece.  Gregory's motor is built on a 912 case.  For a 356 3rd piece we will use spacers over longer studs to achieve the 4 coplanar mounting points like on a 912 3rd piece.
Nice shot showing how the V drive mounts to the 3rd piece. Gregory's motor is built on a 912 case. For a 356 3rd piece we will use spacers over longer studs to achieve the 4 coplanar mounting points like on a 912 3rd piece.
Shot of the cut out in the bottom of the mount frame bowl to clear the dry sump oil pump.  This cut out will be smaller in size once we reduce the diameter of the bowl for production units.
Shot of the cut out in the bottom of the mount frame bowl to clear the dry sump oil pump. This cut out will be smaller in size once we reduce the diameter of the bowl for production units.
Crank pulley slotted to receive the T drive shaft.  The shaft pictured is the one Gregory fabricated.  You can buy 1 meter lengths of the correct DIN 5463 spline on Amazon for $100 - enough to make 6 or 7 T shafts.
Crank pulley slotted to receive the T drive shaft. The shaft pictured is the one Gregory fabricated. You can buy 1 meter lengths of the correct DIN 5463 spline on Amazon for $100 - enough to make 6 or 7 T shafts.
Original 4 cam T drive shaft on left and Gregory's fabricated one on the right.
Original 4 cam T drive shaft on left and Gregory's fabricated one on the right.
Before the motor can be run Gregory needs to complete the oil drain piping off the V drive body and several other small issues. Gregory's motor is one of the Wilhoit 2132 cc motors so should have about the same power as a 2 liter 587/3 motor in "sport" tune as used in the 904.

Thanks for following along!
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
#460603 67 912
904 clone in the works

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Bill Sargent
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Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#358 Post by Bill Sargent »

Has been a long time since the last post - sometimes life and work get in the way of hobbies. I am still working in Beijing but only until June of next year when I plan to really retire and move into the new family home we are building on Mercer Island. In the last post in March of 2016 we thought Gregory would be running the faux cam motor on the Dyno soon. Then Gregory decided to move and take on the renovation of a house .... after which he needed to build his new shop. So here we are at New Year’s 2017, Gregory has a shop again and is getting the faux cam motor set up on the dyno.

Gregory has found it a little challenging getting an exhaust mounted that clears the dry sump oil pump plumbing, but hopes to have some dyno runs in January.

In the mean time I had hoped to take the 59A to the Emory Campout last July, but when getting the car out of storage I found one of the exhaust manifold studs had stripped in the head. Given the value of the 4 cam motor I decided it was not worth the risk, and took my 64C cab instead.

Once Gregory gets the dyno runs I will share some photos and dyno info. I can then make the mods to the V drive CAD file so we can make some “production” units. The main changes will be to make the mount bowl smaller (same size as a 4 cam V drive) and to make the outer end cap part of the V drive body. We realized that a removable outer cap was not needed as the internal shaft is loaded from the other end. Deleting the separate end cap will reduce CNC machine costs by over $800.

In the mean time I will leave you with a photo of the new shop. Girolift HT9000A single post car lift was delivered last week.

Thanks for following along!
Attachments
Detached workshop building in July.
Detached workshop building in July.
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
#460603 67 912
904 clone in the works

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Bill Sargent
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Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#359 Post by Bill Sargent »

One step forward, two back. So Gregory gets the faux cam motor set up on his dyno, cranks to get oil pressure and to quote Gregory “... it spews oil!”. :x :( Oil was coming out from under the fan shroud so everything comes off and he finds what is shown in the photo below:
A mount block is welded to the case, covering one of the oil holes that are normally covered by the junction block.  You need to seal the hole and as a second measure weld fully around the mount block......
A mount block is welded to the case, covering one of the oil holes that are normally covered by the junction block. You need to seal the hole and as a second measure weld fully around the mount block......
As you can see, the weld around the fan shroud mount block was not made completely around and that is where the oil was coming from. The mount block covers one of the oil galley holes normally under the junction block. The very reputable shop that did the welding appears not to have properly plugged the oil galley hole underneath. So now Gregory has to disassemble and clean everything, heat to boil the oil out, pre weld heat and then weld the remaining section to seal the leak - which hopefully will be successful.

More as it happens. Thanks for following along.
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
#460603 67 912
904 clone in the works

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Bill Sargent
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Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#360 Post by Bill Sargent »

Well, welding did not work..... too much oil contamination to get a non porous weld. So Gregory measured very carefully and used his mill to uncover the oil pressure sender hole on top of the case. And, with lots of cleaning steps proceeded to tap the hole and insert a sealing plug.
Open area at end of Fan shroud mount block welded up, but weld was porous due to oil contamination.  Fix required a mill and lots of cleaning steps.
Open area at end of Fan shroud mount block welded up, but weld was porous due to oil contamination. Fix required a mill and lots of cleaning steps.
This fixed the problem and he was able to successfully start the Faux Cam motor on his dyno.
poor image quality due to a screen grab from the startup video.
Screen grab from the startup video.  Sorry for the poor quality.
Screen grab from the startup video. Sorry for the poor quality.
At the moment Gregory is using 009 distributors, which only have 24 degrees advance, to allow 5 degrees at ideal and 29 at full advance. Only ran a few minutes but we can already tell that the oil pressure relief valve to allow oil to recycle to the pump inlet will be needed. Had 80 psi at idle after warm and 110 psi at 3000 rpm. We have 80psi relief valves. The Pauter dry sump pump pressure pump has about twice the output of the late 356 oil pump, hence the high oil pressures.

After a few more runs to confirm things, I will do the CAD work on the distributor V drive body to make the changes discussed a few posts back.

Thanks for following along.
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
#460603 67 912
904 clone in the works

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