Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

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Adam Wright
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#31 Post by Adam Wright »

Bill-
Post a picture of the mount base that you need, if I can pull it off something in the yard, it is yours.
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Bill Sargent
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#32 Post by Bill Sargent »

Adam,

I think it probably looks similar to what is in my 64C cab, but the photo below shows all that is left in the 59A - a small broken plastic nub held on by a slot head machine screw located by the left hood hinge pocket under the dash.
Remains of the turn signal flasher base.....turn signals still flash, not sure how the PO accomplished that.
Remains of the turn signal flasher base.....turn signals still flash, not sure how the PO accomplished that.
DSCN1312.JPG (79.46 KiB) Viewed 6158 times
Contributions welcome!
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
#460603 67 912
904 clone in the works

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Adam Wright
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#33 Post by Adam Wright »

Okay, I will be at the old warehouse on Monday and see what I can pull from one of the cars slowly sinking into the earth. Let me know if you find any more pictures of the piece.
www.unobtanium-inc.com
Check out my Barn Find column in the Registry magazine, always looking for good stories.

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Bill Sargent
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#34 Post by Bill Sargent »

Made some progress on a couple of fronts this week. Got the patch for the battery box floor cut out of the donor pan and fitted to the hole. Had to make the channel in the patch a little shallower to match the battery box floor. A 2x4 on edge in my bench vice provided a good surface to adjust the depth of the channel with a body hammer. Will get the patch welded in this weekend.
Patch held in place by magnet before tack welding
Patch held in place by magnet before tack welding
DSCN1346.JPG (65.25 KiB) Viewed 6103 times
Rolled the car up on its side to weld in the patch and decided to do a little Alaskan style body work. Up here if you walk into a body shop and say "Celite Bench" they do not think of a chassie bench for a Porsche, they see a morbidly obese person in the gym doing bench presses..... The K member had been bent upward near where it is welded to the floor pan by improper use of a floor jack and needed to be bent back. I realized that I could use a nylon tie down and the roll over frame to pull the K member back into the proper position. Worked pretty well.
pulling the bends out of the K member caused by jacking under the center
pulling the bends out of the K member caused by jacking under the center
DSCN1354.JPG (91.46 KiB) Viewed 6103 times
Once I got the K member straight, the tear in the passenger side of the K member where it welds to the floor pan came into alighment. All I need to do is a little hammer work to get it fully back in position and weld it up.
K member was torn when car was jacked under the center of the K member
K member was torn when car was jacked under the center of the K member
DSCN1356.JPG (78.17 KiB) Viewed 6103 times
Got a package notice today that the rear engine lid is back from GT Werks where it had louvers and the carrera screen installed. Photos this weekend.

Thanks for reading this!
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
#460603 67 912
904 clone in the works

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Bill Sargent
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#35 Post by Bill Sargent »

This weekend was welding weekend and I got a lot of what needed to be repaired on the bottom of the car done.....and learned more about welding along the way. I started out using 0.03" (0.8mm) wire and found that even at settings my welder said should weld 24 gauge I was getting blow thru. I finally switched to 0.023" (0.6mm) wire and what a difference. I could now set it for the actual gauge of metal and had few if any blow thrus. And I could even do some of the thin rusted metal.

First up though was installing the patch to the large "open-the-hood" hole in the battery box floor. Got it welded in and ground off on the bottom, but still need to do the grinding on the inside. Car was on its side in the roll over frame which made this a stand up exercise.
Bottom side with welds ground
Bottom side with welds ground
DSCN1363.JPG (71.03 KiB) Viewed 5998 times
Inside of battery box view of patch - not as pretty, but will look OK after grinding
Inside of battery box view of patch - not as pretty, but will look OK after grinding
DSCN1359.JPG (75.02 KiB) Viewed 5998 times
I had several other holes and crinkled areas with tears on the battery box floor to weld up, and overall I was satisfied with the outcome - not factory perfect, but good for a faux cam....
Each of the shiny places had a weld repair.  The two on either side of the front were parking curb damage.  Others were various holes.
Each of the shiny places had a weld repair. The two on either side of the front were parking curb damage. Others were various holes.
DSCN1362.JPG (78.3 KiB) Viewed 5998 times
Next was the repair of the tear where the K member attaches to the pan in the footwell area
Alaskan body work in progress.  Got it straight pretty easily.  Then hammered the torn part down for welding.  Once things were straight it fit perfectly
Alaskan body work in progress. Got it straight pretty easily. Then hammered the torn part down for welding. Once things were straight it fit perfectly
DSCN1356.JPG (78.17 KiB) Viewed 5998 times
Looks much better welded back as it should be
Looks much better welded back as it should be
DSCN1360.JPG (72.49 KiB) Viewed 5998 times
I then repaired the tear where the drivers side rocker had come loose from the front closing panel.
Rocker had torn loose from the front closing panel.  Factory welds were none to pretty
Rocker had torn loose from the front closing panel. Factory welds were none to pretty
DSCN1361.JPG (62.83 KiB) Viewed 5998 times
My weld is not pretty either, but it gets the job done, and it is basically under the car
My weld is not pretty either, but it gets the job done, and it is basically under the car
DSCN1367.JPG (80.53 KiB) Viewed 5998 times
My biggest challenge though was to repair the tears in the corners of the lower (non removable) engine tray. Not sure how they got torn - most likely a turkey PO not knowing how to get the motor out. Metal was thin so I elected to weld up the cracks on the horizontal surface and cut out the vertical surface and make a patch. Getting this right took about as long as the large patch to the battery box floor.
Damage to passenger side corner of lower engine tray.
Damage to passenger side corner of lower engine tray.
DSCN1218.JPG (60.69 KiB) Viewed 5998 times
cut back and ready to receive patch
cut back and ready to receive patch
DSCN1368.JPG (74.76 KiB) Viewed 5998 times
Patch welded in and ground.  Had to cut several V shaped notches in the small lower lip to get it folded with the curve of the corner.....and weld each one up.
Patch welded in and ground. Had to cut several V shaped notches in the small lower lip to get it folded with the curve of the corner.....and weld each one up.
DSCN1372.JPG (75.61 KiB) Viewed 5998 times
Thanks for reading this!
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
#460603 67 912
904 clone in the works

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Bill Sargent
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#36 Post by Bill Sargent »

And now for some 356 erotica................
Engine lid arrived back from GT Werks who added the GT louvers and the carrera screen.
Engine lid arrived back from GT Werks who added the GT louvers and the carrera screen.
DSCN1378.JPG (75.16 KiB) Viewed 5997 times
Seeing parts like this come together keeps me motivated to get this car back on the road. Lots of parts are complete and just waiting on me to get the bottom done so they can go back on the car.
Has taken many months to get all these parts done in my blast cabinet and then either primed and painted or powder coated
Has taken many months to get all these parts done in my blast cabinet and then either primed and painted or powder coated
DSCN1120.JPG (99.39 KiB) Viewed 5997 times
I only have a little more welding on the bottom to do. I can then hit everything with some phosphating metal prep and get the bottom painted. I got the original type tar paper type sound proofing from Bill Perrone at The Parts Shop, but will only install the 2 pieces that go above the transmission before reassembly. The interior floor pan and engine compartment sound proofing will probably wait until outer body metal and paint are done.

Next weekend will be the last of the welding followed by paint prep and, hopefully, some painting.

Thanks for reading this!
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
#460603 67 912
904 clone in the works

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Vic Skirmants
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#37 Post by Vic Skirmants »

Regarding the tears in your engine tray. Probably clearancing for installing a B muffler versus the correct A muffler.

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Bill Sargent
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#38 Post by Bill Sargent »

I guess that would be the B/C type muffler on the motor I removed from the car! I will have to look at the corners of the muffler to see if they have "installation" scrapes. Live and learn!
Motor that came in the car with B/C muffler - likely the source of the tears in the corners of my lower engine tray
Motor that came in the car with B/C muffler - likely the source of the tears in the corners of my lower engine tray
59A motor from 60B super.JPG (20.54 KiB) Viewed 5939 times
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
#460603 67 912
904 clone in the works

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Bill Sargent
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#39 Post by Bill Sargent »

Made some progress on several fronts over the last week and a half. Have the underside seam sealing nearly completed and today I got the seat belt mounts welded in for the lap belts. Shoulder mount point will come later. I had some 1/8" plate with holes drilled for belts mount reinforcements, plus the eye bolts and associated hardward. Used my bench vice and a large cresent wrench to bend the correct curve into the reinforcement plates. Then welded the nuts to the reinforcement plates. There is a thick reinforcement piece around the outside corner were the pan meets the vertical wall below the rear seats, so I located and drilled 1/2" holes thru this piece. Used the belt mount locations in my C cab as a rough guide.
Reinforcement plates bent to match shape of the outside corner where the floor meets the vertical wall below the rear seats
Reinforcement plates bent to match shape of the outside corner where the floor meets the vertical wall below the rear seats
DSCN1404.JPG (67.04 KiB) Viewed 5828 times
One of the lap belt mounts installed.  Was not as hard to access as I has feared.
One of the lap belt mounts installed. Was not as hard to access as I has feared.
DSCN1407.JPG (77.33 KiB) Viewed 5828 times
Eye bolt installed in the new lap belt mount.
Eye bolt installed in the new lap belt mount.
DSCN1406.JPG (75.29 KiB) Viewed 5828 times
While I was at it, I decided to remove the clutch and parking brake cables from the tunnel in order to clean and regrease them. Although I used foil and duct tape to seal things up when the car was soda blasted, I wanted to be sure none got into the cable housings. When removed they appeared to have only the 50+ year old grease.
Parking brake and clutch cables plus associated hardware ready to go to the parts washer
Parking brake and clutch cables plus associated hardware ready to go to the parts washer
DSCN1410.JPG (80.12 KiB) Viewed 5828 times
Cleaned up the rear of the tunnel housing while I as at it.
Cleaned up the rear of the tunnel housing while I as at it.
DSCN1411.JPG (86.23 KiB) Viewed 5828 times
While at the LA lit meet in March I was wandering around the Sunday swap meet and late in the afternoon saw some gas heaters in a box. One looked like the Eberspacher BN2 heaters installed in A cars, so I asked the seller about it. He said he thought it was correct for A carreras, and when I asked why, he produced a factory installation manual! The manual is a real time warp - type written in German with photos pasted on the pages. In addition to the installation instructions, it also had the full size templates for locating the various holes that need to be cut to install the heater. I purchased the heater since the motor will not have flapper boxes. If anyone would like a copy of the manual (sans templates) I can Email a PDF file. Contact me off line.
Eberspacher BN2 gas heater as installed in early 356As, together with factory installation manual
Eberspacher BN2 gas heater as installed in early 356As, together with factory installation manual
DSCN1412.JPG (73.4 KiB) Viewed 5828 times
Now I needed to find a wiring harness for the heater. Plus I needed 2 more wires from the gauge area to the engine compartment for the oil pressure gauge and electric tach. And I needed wiring for the seat heaters. I gave Gene at YNZ a call (he is the 356 specialist) and explained what I needed. He actually had in their technical library an original auxiliary wiring harness for the BN2 heater - which apparently originally had cloth covered wires in a silver colored casing (carrera?). After discussing what I wanted to do, Gene recommended placing all the various wires into one new auxiliary harness. The gas heater, electric tach, seat heater and oil pressure gauge wires would start under the dash at either the fuse box or gauges, as appropriate. There will be a pull out at the same place as the back up light wires exit the main harness in the tunnel for the seat heater power. Then the harness continues thru the tunnel and out to the rear where there is a pull out at the same place as the wires to the voltage regulator for the electric tach and oil pressure gauge wires. Gas heater wires continue along the same path as the tail light wires to the rear of the car. The new aux harness will have plastic covered wires in a black sleeve. While I was at it I ordered extra bullet connectors and some small 12V relays that I can use to replace the guts in some old 6V relays. Should be here in a couple of weeks.

Also started research on what ignition to use and what advance curve will work for the motor. I started a thread on the main talk page asking for info and got some good advice. I am somewhat constrained on ignition choices as the normal Nissan twin plug cap adapted for 356 twin plug applications is too large a diameter to fit with the 4Cam fan shroud in place. I am therefor considering variousl alternatives including crank fire set ups.

Next up is welding in the various mount brackets located on the firewall forward of the motor. I still need a good photo of how the breather can used on 59 carreras mounts to the fire call. Can someone send me a photo and/or measurements of the breather can mounts?
Carrera fuel regulator/filter mount bracket.  Justin was kind enough to send this to me.  Will need to remove it from the piece of old firewall it is attached to and weld it onto my firewall.
Carrera fuel regulator/filter mount bracket. Justin was kind enough to send this to me. Will need to remove it from the piece of old firewall it is attached to and weld it onto my firewall.
DSCN1405.JPG (63.5 KiB) Viewed 5828 times
Thanks for reading this!
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
#460603 67 912
904 clone in the works

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Bill Sargent
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#40 Post by Bill Sargent »

I decided I needed to knock out the priming and painting of the bottom, engine compartment, front trunk and inside floor pan, so I took a week of vacation last week. It was a big job, taking probably 40 to 50 hours. First was cleaning the remnants of undercoating and tar that the soda blasting did not get. In the process I found more of the factory workers grafitti that was under the undercoating:
Last 4 digits of chassie number hand painted under the original black paint inside the rear clip
Last 4 digits of chassie number hand painted under the original black paint inside the rear clip
DSCN1416.JPG (79.25 KiB) Viewed 5730 times
W in the left rear fender - who knows what this means?
W in the left rear fender - who knows what this means?
DSCN1417.JPG (64.32 KiB) Viewed 5730 times
I then seam sealed all the over lapped panels and also sealed the mud trap high up between the front fender tops and the front closing panels. When doing my 64 cab I found that 3M windsheld sealer comes in a long roll of material about 5/8" diameter. Very tacky, never hardens. I used a chop stick to place two 14" lengths of this stuff up in the cavity, one over the other and pushed well up into the cavity - after it was throughly cleaned out. Fortunately no rust up there. I then covered the stuff with 3M brush on seam sealer. For some of the larger "corner" like areas that panels met I used the 3M seam sealer that comes in a caulk tube.
Seam sealer and window caulk
Seam sealer and window caulk
DSCN1432.JPG (83.36 KiB) Viewed 5730 times
Seams sealed in the rear fender area using the brush on seam sealer
Seams sealed in the rear fender area using the brush on seam sealer
DSCN1413.JPG (83.15 KiB) Viewed 5730 times
Once all the seams were sealed it was on to applying primer. I chose to use the POR 15 paint as my "primer" since I soda blasted the inside of the fenders. Soda removes all paint, grease etc, but not light surface rust, and I was reluctant to hit the inside of the fenders with the crushed glass. LOTS of time with a 2" foam brush to get all the area up around the front torsion bar tubes painted.
Front torsion bar tube area after priing with POR 15 using a 2" foam brush
Front torsion bar tube area after priing with POR 15 using a 2" foam brush
DSCN1418.JPG (87.71 KiB) Viewed 5730 times
Rest of the bottom went more quickly. Once the primer was dry I used a small touch up spray gun to aapply the POR 15 simi gloss chassie black. The regular POR 15 is not UV stable so it it will be exposed to light it must be overcoated. Even thought the bottom mayu not see much light, I chose to do the top coat. I could not get everywhere with the spray gun that I could with the foam brush, but I got every where that the sun might ever see!
DSCN1435.JPG
DSCN1435.JPG (92.06 KiB) Viewed 5730 times
I then moved on to do the engine compartment, front trunk and inside the floor pan. Lots more work with the 2" foam brush followed by a second coat using the spray gun.
Front trunk in primer
Front trunk in primer
DSCN1463.JPG (84.14 KiB) Viewed 5730 times
inside floor pan before - lots of hand work to remove old glue and tar off the sides around the foot wells.
inside floor pan before - lots of hand work to remove old glue and tar off the sides around the foot wells.
DSCN1462.JPG (90.77 KiB) Viewed 5730 times
Inside floor pan and foot wells in primer.  A dirty job half way done.  Top coating is much easier.
Inside floor pan and foot wells in primer. A dirty job half way done. Top coating is much easier.
DSCN1466.JPG (93.31 KiB) Viewed 5730 times
Thanks for reading this!
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
#460603 67 912
904 clone in the works

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Bill Sargent
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#41 Post by Bill Sargent »

While painting the rear engine compartment, I left the upper fire wall unpainted so I could weld on the fuel regulator mount plate Justin sent me, as well as the breather can mount (if I can ever get a photo to see what one looks like).
Fuel regulator welded in position.  Justin supplied the part and Frank Meek supplied the location measurements.  Fuel regulator/filter is close in appearance to an original.  Sold by Fibersteel for their spyder replicas
Fuel regulator welded in position. Justin supplied the part and Frank Meek supplied the location measurements. Fuel regulator/filter is close in appearance to an original. Sold by Fibersteel for their spyder replicas
DSCN1430.JPG (72.57 KiB) Viewed 5724 times
While I was painting I received the auxiliary wiring harness for the gas heater, electric tach and seat heaters that Gene at YNZ was making. It actually went in fairly easily - it was obvious that the factory had sized the various tubes and holes where the harness goes to accept the auxiliary gas heater harness. It did take some time to thread both the original and auxiliary harness thru a new piece of rubber tube where it comes out of the tunnel heading to the rear of the car. The original 51+ year old tube was falling apart. A 2.125" heavy thorn resistant bike tire inner tube makes a great replacement.
Auxiliary gas heater and seat heater harness pulled thru the tube in the rear bulkhead
Auxiliary gas heater and seat heater harness pulled thru the tube in the rear bulkhead
DSCN1436.JPG (85.21 KiB) Viewed 5724 times
And the other end of the harness.  Gas heater has 4 wires going to it.  I had two more wires in the harness, one for the electric tach, and one for an oil pressure gauge.
And the other end of the harness. Gas heater has 4 wires going to it. I had two more wires in the harness, one for the electric tach, and one for an oil pressure gauge.
DSCN1440.JPG (93.83 KiB) Viewed 5724 times
Gas heater harness exits the rear tunnel just above the original harness.  Large wire from battery to starter is below.
Gas heater harness exits the rear tunnel just above the original harness. Large wire from battery to starter is below.
DSCN1448.JPG (75.41 KiB) Viewed 5724 times
Although I had the heater, I still did not have the proper switch, but Joris Koning was kind enough to aim me at one for sale on the Samba that came from a swiss VW bus.
Gas Heater Switch.jpg
Before fully installing the harness from the tunnel back, I needed to reinstall the tar paper sound proofing the goes above the transmission. Bill Perrone at the Parts Shop from time to time gets in limited stocks of the original tar backed tar paper sound proofing. I was lucky enough to buy sets for the engine compartment, interior floors and door shuts several months ago. My front trunk and rear seat area are still good. I will only do the tranny area now. Engine compartment and interior floors will be done after the longnitudinals plus outside body paint and metal are completed. No sense cleaning over spray off the tar paper if you do not have to.

I had previously (11 years ago) installed the kit Stoddards sells in my 64 cab. It was a real pain as you had to heat mastic on a hot plate, smear it on the back of the paper, let it cool, and then use a propane tourch to heat and install. The material Bill sells is "as original" and is much easier to install. I used a heat gun to get the stuff bendable and then test formed it into place. I then used a propane torch and, starting at one end, heated (melted the tar) and pushed it into place as I went. Looks great and totally original if you take your time.
First piece in place.  It goes way up under the tunnel extension and is tricky to get the tar melted and into place
First piece in place. It goes way up under the tunnel extension and is tricky to get the tar melted and into place
DSCN1441.JPG (78.25 KiB) Viewed 5724 times
Both pieces installed.  Wanted to do this before the tranny went back in......
Both pieces installed. Wanted to do this before the tranny went back in......
DSCN1446.JPG (84.52 KiB) Viewed 5724 times
I still have some top coat paint to apply in the front trunk and on the inside floor pan, but that will go quickly.

I am over the tipping point now and have started to install parts, instead of taking them off! You can see in the tar paper photos that I have the E-brake cables and clutch cable reinstalled. Before reinstalling them I used the throttle rod with small 1" squares of old towle soaked in solvent to clean out the tubes carrying these cables - 50 year old grease and some blast media was in there. I then used a grease gun to inject grease into the tubes before installing the cables liberally coated with grease.

Once the rest of the floor and trunk paint is complete, I will start installing some of the assembiles that I have already rebuilt. Last week during painting breaks I got the pedal box assembly rebuilt and painted and also assembled and adjusted the ZF steering box. The used steering box worm gear bearings from Chris Tanner in switzerland worked great. Fortunately the tollerances were such that I was able to remove one of the shims that go under the worm gear end cap - good thing as I had no spare shims if I had needed to add one.

Thanks for reading this!
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
#460603 67 912
904 clone in the works

Justin Rio
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#42 Post by Justin Rio »

Looking great Bill! You're really moving right along. Nice job on the lap belt mounts. I may follow your example. Is the fuel filter your running a regulator too or just a filter?? tar paper is from bill parone??

Again Nice work! Justin

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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#43 Post by Bill Sargent »

Thanks Justin. we have a new baby girl due the end of October, about the same time we get snow lasting 6 months up here, and I want to get the car back on its wheels and running with the original motor. Makes storage easier. The new motor will get built over the winter.

If you want to do lap belts, see if Jim at EASY or Adam at Unobtainium can cut you a set of the seat belt mount plates out of the rear corner of a T6 car pan. They are nicely formed with the threaded part inset in the reinforcement plate. They also have the threaded hole offset to the outside corners to get the attachment points a little further apart. If you make your own, I would suggest making the hole in the reinforcement plate large enough to inset the nut and weld the nut in prior to installing the reinforcement plate. Offset the holes on the reinforcement plates toward the corners of the pan to get max distance between the anchor points.

The Fibersteel unit is a combination fuel pressure regulator and filter - very similar to the original carrera ones. Cost was about $150 with a spare filter cartridge. The originals had banjo fittings on each side, while this unit has barbed hose connections. The top cover is aluminum, not pot metal, so I may try and rework it to accept banjo fittings.

The tar paper sound proofing is sold by - The Parts Shop, Bill Perrone, 15725 Chemical Lane Huntington Beach, CA 92649. Tel 714-894-3112. Fax 714-894-8694. Not cheap, but dead on original. Bill was very good to deal with. If you buy some, give me a call and I can talk you thru the installation process.
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
#460603 67 912
904 clone in the works

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Bill Sargent
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#44 Post by Bill Sargent »

Over the weekend I got the rebuilt pedal box and ZF steering box installed. I left the steering box mounting clamp bolts finger tight so that I could line things up when I install the steering wheel/shaft.

I then drilled the holes for the fuel lines going in/out of the tunnel area to the electric fuel pump as well as the hole out from the battery box area for the fuel pump power wire.
Justin was kind enough to supply the measurements on where to drill the holes.
Justin was kind enough to supply the measurements on where to drill the holes.
I then decided to tackle the installation of the right side front oil cooler and its associated mounting brackets and ducting.
From the 356 A parts manual - what a puzzle!
From the 356 A parts manual - what a puzzle!
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I did have a starting point though. Bob Garrettson provided a nearly complete set of the mounts and ducting that someone in Belgium made for him about 20 years ago. Plus I had some photos from a couple of A carreras of how things were supposed to look. I quickly learned that everything had to be trimmed to fit. For instance where does the fender brace connect to the battery box side - there is a 1.5" difference fore/aft just between the front fender braces on my car. The steel mounting bracket that attaches to the battery box side had to be shortened to fit close to the inner nose panel. Every ducting part also had to be trimmed to fit. Photos of the installation sequence are below. I am using one of the late model aluminum engine oil coolers. The coolers attach to aluminium mount blocks that in turn attach to the soft oil lines leading to the hard lines.
Steel mounting bracket installed on the battery box side wall.  Lots of card board templates to determine how much to cut the front to fit the shape of the nose
Steel mounting bracket installed on the battery box side wall. Lots of card board templates to determine how much to cut the front to fit the shape of the nose
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Cooler with mount block on top set in place to determine where other ducting would fit.  In/out to oil lines are on side of the mount block.  Mount bracket sets up off the battery box side wall to allow various wires to exit the battery box in the normal place.
Cooler with mount block on top set in place to determine where other ducting would fit. In/out to oil lines are on side of the mount block. Mount bracket sets up off the battery box side wall to allow various wires to exit the battery box in the normal place.
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Another view of how the cooler sits relative to the fender brace.  Goal is to have the cooler line up behind the horn grill
Another view of how the cooler sits relative to the fender brace. Goal is to have the cooler line up behind the horn grill
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Ducting installed - took about 6 hours of fiddling to get it all to fit right.
Ducting installed - took about 6 hours of fiddling to get it all to fit right.
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View toward the front of the car.  The flat piece bolted to the fender brace was not in the parts Bob supplied, but it was clear from photos how to make it.
View toward the front of the car. The flat piece bolted to the fender brace was not in the parts Bob supplied, but it was clear from photos how to make it.
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Right side done.  Left should go quicker as I know what needs to be done.  I could not imagine doing this without the ability to turn the car up on its side
Right side done. Left should go quicker as I know what needs to be done. I could not imagine doing this without the ability to turn the car up on its side
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I also landed on an ignition set up last week. I will use an Electromotive crank fire ECU to fire two Ford Zetec 4 tower coil packs. Electromotive have used these coil packs with their ECU for the Ford Focus midget race series. Trigger wheel will be mounted on the back of the 4" alloy crank pulley. The coil packs are just a little larger than the stock distributor, so I will mount them on a bracket that sets them at about the same place as a late 4 cam with a 90 degree V drive would have them. Will allow for a somewhat stock appearing plug wire routing.
Ford Zeted 4 tower coil pack.jpg
Ford Zeted 4 tower coil pack.jpg (28.04 KiB) Viewed 5547 times
This week I have some machine work to do on the oil cooler mount blocks. They are supplied by Peter Hoffman of Classic Parts in germany made as the originals were. But the new aluminium oil cooler has M8 mounting studs instead of the original M6 studs. So the holes have to be drilled out. Plus they are counter sunk and the counter sink has to be opened to fit a 12mm socket. Fortunately my friend with the CNC mill can help with this minor mod.

Thanks for reading this.
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
#460603 67 912
904 clone in the works

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Bill Sargent
356 Fan
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Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:03 am
Tag: Faux-Cam
Location: Seattle, Washington

Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#45 Post by Bill Sargent »

Monday night Gary kindly allowed me time on his CNC milling machine and I got the holes in the oil cooler mount blocks opened up for the M8 studs and also opened up the counter sunk area so that I can use 12m ATF nut and get the socket into the counter sunk hole. Took about 1 hour.

Did some easy assembly work Wednesday night and installed the brake master cylinder and hooked up the hard lines. Getting the rubber boot on the part of the master cylinder that sticks into the foot well was easy. Once installed, getting the rubber boot over the fitting on the brake actuating rod was less so - a hooked rod and a little silicone grease helped.
Steering box, master cylinder and hard brake lines installed.  Am using one of Bill Brown's stainless sleeved master cylinders.  Once the brakes are all installed I plan to use silicone fluid.  Too bad the original aluminium brake fluid reservoir is missing.
Steering box, master cylinder and hard brake lines installed. Am using one of Bill Brown's stainless sleeved master cylinders. Once the brakes are all installed I plan to use silicone fluid. Too bad the original aluminium brake fluid reservoir is missing.
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Pedal box and master cylinder installed.  Note rubber boot over end of master cylinder and actuating rod.  In the original ATE rubber boots there is a small drain hole that should be down.  The repro rebuild kits lack the drain hole, so I reused the old ATE rubber boot.
Pedal box and master cylinder installed. Note rubber boot over end of master cylinder and actuating rod. In the original ATE rubber boots there is a small drain hole that should be down. The repro rebuild kits lack the drain hole, so I reused the old ATE rubber boot.
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Last weekend I used P tool 273A borrowed from Ralfy to install the front trailing arm bushings in the front torsion bar tubes. I used the white phenolic ones that are all that are available now. I heard years ago (from Brad Ripley I believe) that the white plastic bushings did not need to be reamed to size. Tonight I decided to measure the installed ID of the bushings to find out. My method was somewhat crude, but I think it was fairly accurate. I simply wrapped masking tape around the end of the 273A tool until it measured 37.10mm which is the minimum installed bushing ID from the factory shop manual. I found that three of the bushings were exactly 37.10mm and one was 37.15 mm. The factory range was 37.10 - 37.15 mm so I am good (and Brad was right about no reaming)! Ralfy has the factory bushing reaming tools, but it takes several hours to ream all the bushings. Glad I do not have to do it!
P-tool 273A with tape added to bring the end normally used to install the bushing up to 37.1 mm.  measured before and after checking each bushing.  Added some tape for the one that was loose and found it was 37.15mm.  Make sure that the grease zerk fittings are backed out otherwise they will interfere with the 273A tool.
P-tool 273A with tape added to bring the end normally used to install the bushing up to 37.1 mm. measured before and after checking each bushing. Added some tape for the one that was loose and found it was 37.15mm. Make sure that the grease zerk fittings are backed out otherwise they will interfere with the 273A tool.
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P-Tool 273A converted to a bushing measurement tool Alaska style!  Blue painters tape has almost as many uses as duct tape.....
P-Tool 273A converted to a bushing measurement tool Alaska style! Blue painters tape has almost as many uses as duct tape.....
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Next task was to measure the surfaces on the front trailing arms that ride in the bushings to see if I am close to the factory allowed tollerance of 0.15 to 0.22 mm smaller than the installed ID of the bushing. Ralfy cleaned up the bushing surfaces in his lathe, taking off about 3/1000". I measured 2 places 90 degrees apart at each end of the bushing surface - along the upper/lower surface as installed and 90 degrees to that. I found 3 of the 4 within the allowable range of 0.15 - 0.22mm. The 4th was 0.23 to 0.25 mm - good enough for me!
Measurements of the installed ID of the bushings and the OD of the trailing arms
Measurements of the installed ID of the bushings and the OD of the trailing arms
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Now that I know everything is good on the bushing clearances, I can move on to reassemble the entire front suspension.

Thanks for reading this!
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
#460603 67 912
904 clone in the works

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