Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

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Bill Sargent
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#16 Post by Bill Sargent »

Tom, thanks for the kind words and thanks again for selling me the oil tank.

I am lucky enough to have a friend here in Anchorage with a 56 coupe in bare metal so I could make the measurements to fabricate and install the oil tank brackets in my car. Even with that, I ended up mounting the tank a about 2cm higher than they were originally to fit with the rest of the program. This will necessitate unsoldering the tank filler neck to change the angle some and also to lower it some, with subsequent dip stick mod needed as well. I have a good radiator shop who already pressure checked the oil tank as well as the gas tank, so that will not be too hard. Down in Seattle this week getting the 60 year old house on what will eventually be our retirement property ready for rent, so will post some photos of the oil tank installed with tank screen from GT Werks when I am back next week.

Bob Kahn of GT Werks called today and the engine lid for the car is finished - GT louvers as well as the carrera screen installed. Parcel post to get back here to the frozen north, so will not see it for a few weeks. Photo below shows the lid being soda blasted. In addition to not distorting the lid, I did not want to have any hard abrasive get trapped in between the frame and skin.......to later fall out and down a carb throat.
Blaster runs at about 50 psi with hole in nozzel about the size of your index finger.  Very fast and gentle.
Blaster runs at about 50 psi with hole in nozzel about the size of your index finger. Very fast and gentle.
Engine lid soda blasting.JPG (27.96 KiB) Viewed 6902 times
Thanks for reading!
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
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Bill Sargent
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#17 Post by Bill Sargent »

Was in Seattle last week working on the old house on nice dirt we own there. Got it rented. Got back on the car today - back on its side to work on some of the dents in the pan.
Easy to roll the car up in the garage
Easy to roll the car up in the garage
DSCN1209.JPG (80.3 KiB) Viewed 6815 times
After the soda and crushed glass blasting I found that only one place on the pan will need a patch. The longnitudinals are another story though - many small rust perforations from the inside:
Rust perforations in the longnitudinal
Rust perforations in the longnitudinal
DSCN1210.JPG (65.6 KiB) Viewed 6815 times
More rust
More rust
DSCN1211.JPG (63.75 KiB) Viewed 6815 times
Plan is to get the major dents out of the pan and then epoxy prime all the areas blasted followed by black paint. Longitudinals will be replaced in a few years when I am permanently in Seattle.
Typical jack dent under tunnel in rear
Typical jack dent under tunnel in rear
DSCN1225.JPG (56.49 KiB) Viewed 6815 times
I am using an air planishing hammer as well as hammer and dolly to get the dents out of the pan. There are some weld repairs needed. Got the bottom of the battery box pretty well straight - lots of floor jack damage to the area just to the left of the tow hook toward the front of the car......and the 4" square hole someone cut to open the hood.
Some small tears in the floor from getting it straight.  Also the 4" hole to patch.
Some small tears in the floor from getting it straight. Also the 4" hole to patch.
DSCN1221.JPG (68.93 KiB) Viewed 6815 times
Tomorrow I have a friend coming over to help with a dolly inside while I am on the outside. We will also wheel it outside and clean off/neutralize the soad blasting residue. Can not paint over it without doing this.

Thanks for reading this!
Last edited by Bill Sargent on Mon Aug 01, 2011 1:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
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Bill Sargent
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#18 Post by Bill Sargent »

The dry sump oil pump and adaptor came in last week while I was away. I have been working with Don Pauter of Pauter machine to adapt one of their G rotor dry sump pumps for my motor build.
4 Cam blower unit uses 4" crank pulley, so no clearance problems with the dry sump pump.  Stock crank pulley would not clear the pump.
4 Cam blower unit uses 4" crank pulley, so no clearance problems with the dry sump pump. Stock crank pulley would not clear the pump.
DSCN1226.JPG (76.44 KiB) Viewed 6809 times
Pump is a G rotor type instead of gears and is driven off the cam slot just like the stock oil pump. Stock late pump delivers ~ 12 GPM. This pump will scavenge 32 GPM and deliver 16 GPM of pressurized oil to the motor. It uses one pressure stage with a 25mm G rotor and 2 scavenge stages, each 25 mm. Oil tank is stock carrera unit.
View of first scavenge stage of the dry sump pump
View of first scavenge stage of the dry sump pump
DSCN1228.JPG (73.38 KiB) Viewed 6809 times
In order to mount the pump to the 3rd piece with minimal modifications, Don made a custom adaptor plate. It locates in the stock figure 8 shape gear cavity and has an oil seal that the pump shaft rides in. Shaft has been sized to run thru the stock hole that the original oil pump gear shaft goes thru to the cam slot. Don has the program for the adaptor, so anyone that needs a dry sump pump now has a source. Give him a call at Pauter Machine.
Adaptor plate mounted on motor.  Mounts using 6mm cap bolts into stock oil pump cover locations.  Larger threaded holes are where oil pump mounts.
Adaptor plate mounted on motor. Mounts using 6mm cap bolts into stock oil pump cover locations. Larger threaded holes are where oil pump mounts.
DSCN1231.JPG (70.19 KiB) Viewed 6809 times
Note the figure 8 profile to locate in the stock oil pump cavity.
Note the figure 8 profile to locate in the stock oil pump cavity.
DSCN1232.JPG (86.05 KiB) Viewed 6809 times
Use of the pump on the stock 3rd piece requires the inlet and outlet holes in the gear cavity to be plugged. The soft plug is then removed from the boss on the lower right of the 3rd piece and the hole threaded. This is the pick up for the scavenge pump and draws from the stock pick up tube in the sump. Pressurized oil will go back to the motor thru the existing boss about mid way up the left side of the 3rd piece. Soft plug will be removed and the boss threaded to accept a fitting. 3rd piece can easily be returned to the stock wet sump oil pump coniguration if needed.

Plumbing will be somewhat complicated as the scavenge intake is on the left side of the pump while the fitting it will draw from is on the lower right of the 3rd piece. Similar routing for the pressurized oil back to the motor. Discharge is on the right side of the pump, while inlet to the motor is on the left side of the 3rd piece. Will require some U fittings. Fortunately the suction for the pressure pump is on the left side close to the oil tank.
Dru Sump Pump 1.jpg
Pump has more than enough scavenge capacity so I could later add a second scavange intake and run a scavange line to the drivers side valve cover area that typically fills with oil at sustained high RPM - thrown there by the crank.

Thanks for reading this!
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
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Vic Skirmants
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#19 Post by Vic Skirmants »

If you turn the unit around, can the effective rotation be reversed? It's early Sunday AM, so this may be an incredibly dumb question.

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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#20 Post by Adam Wright »

Bill-
I love the access hole in the battery box. Anytime I see one of these I want to find the person that did it and put their head through it.
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#21 Post by Vic Skirmants »

Well, they could have used a prybar and torn open the trunk lid.

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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#22 Post by Adam Wright »

That is equally awful and I have seen that too. The best ever was the one Justin Rio has where the priest cut off the whole back of the car to get the engine out.
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#23 Post by Bill Romano »

Um, you really need that oil pump? Driven off the camshaft slot that gets chewed up by a stock pump? Seems it ought to take a lot more slot pressure to drive that much oil through the engine. What kind of oil pressure will result if you succeed in driving 10 pounds of oil through a 5 pound opening? Looks beautiful but will be interested in on the road survival stories to come. . .
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Bill Sargent
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#24 Post by Bill Sargent »

Vic - simply rotating the pump 180 degrees around its drive shaft would in theory work and have the scavenge intake and pressure out ports on the sides nearest where the 3rd piece ports are, however the drive shaft is not in the center of the pump and mounting it rotated 180 degrees would place the pump body in the way of even the 4" crank pulley I will be using - see photo of adaptor plate. And the pressure suction port from the dry sump tank would then be on the wrong side.
note hole for drive shaft vs where the larger holes are that the pump mounts to - shaft is not in center of pump.
note hole for drive shaft vs where the larger holes are that the pump mounts to - shaft is not in center of pump.
DSCN1231.JPG (70.19 KiB) Viewed 6711 times
The pump is modular so I guess it could be assembled with the shaft coming out the other end of the pump so, when mounted on the other end, the pump would rotate in the reverse direction, but then the in/out ports are also reversed which leaves me with the same problem. I think Don Pauter has it right and plumbing is in my future.

Bill - you are right that the dry sump pump will take more power to turn than the original oil pump gears. I asked Don Pauter about cam slot wear and he said that VW applications (with even 3 or 4 scavenge stages) do not exhibit too much wear - he thought maybe half the life for the cam slot of a stock motor - and my 64C with 125,000 miles at rebuild had only 1/8 turn wear in the cam slot. With the milage this car will see I will be OK with 50,000 miles before cam slot repair. As for the extra oil volume, I again talked with Don Pauter about that and based on the pick up tube size and the original pump discharge port size he did not forsee a problem.

Adam - I am thankful all the prior owner did was cut the hole - he even missed the small box section that runs across the center floor of the battery box, so the repair will be fairly simple. I have an old rear floor pan that I can get donor parts from with the channel already formed.

Speaking of prior owners, the car gave up another secret today - was using the shop vac to suck debris out of the heater tubes from the rear of the car and out came a business card. Looks like someone named Jim Brindis who worked for Pacific Finance in Long Beach, CA was writing phone numbers on the back of his business card. Anyone know Jim Brindis, or Arlen Purvis? Or if there was/is bowling lanes in the Long Beach area called Red Fox Lanes? See Photos below.
Anyone know Jim Brindis???
Anyone know Jim Brindis???
DSCN1249.JPG (72.05 KiB) Viewed 6711 times
Looks like Mr. Brindis wrote the name Arlen Purvis on the back of his card along with the number for Red Fox bowling alley.  Anyone know either Mr. Purvis or the Red Fox Lanes?
Looks like Mr. Brindis wrote the name Arlen Purvis on the back of his card along with the number for Red Fox bowling alley. Anyone know either Mr. Purvis or the Red Fox Lanes?
DSCN1250.JPG (69.01 KiB) Viewed 6711 times
Was planning on wheeling the shell outside today to neutralize the soda blasting residue. Unfortunately it rained all afternoon so my friend and I got all the dents out of the pan. We had a third helper as well - she is pretty good with a body hammer.....
Hana learns about panel beating.....
Hana learns about panel beating.....
DSCN1246.JPG (86.01 KiB) Viewed 6711 times
We numbered the formed areas in the pan (see numbers in the front half of the pan) so that with the car on its side and one of us an each side the pan, we could communicate where to place the dolly while the other hammered. Worked pretty well and the pan looks much better.
Inside of pan with all dents removed - numers in the front half of the pan helped with coordinating the hammer on one side and dolly on the other.
Inside of pan with all dents removed - numers in the front half of the pan helped with coordinating the hammer on one side and dolly on the other.
DSCN1248.JPG (76.05 KiB) Viewed 6711 times
Thanks for reading this. And if anyone knows a Jim Brindis or Arlen Purvis in the Long Beach, CA area please contact me via Email.
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
#460603 67 912
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Vic Skirmants
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#25 Post by Vic Skirmants »

Bill,
I did mean turning the pump around, not rotating 180 around the shaft. But you've already figured it out either way.
Regarding cam slot wear; get one of the cam inserts used on the industrial engines! It fits the cam slot full-length, is hardened steel. Shorten the oil pump shaft accordingy and you're in business.

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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#26 Post by Justin Rio »

Hi Bill,

I can't get over what a nice dry shell you have; and an open car no less! I'm too used to seeing those "two piece" cabriolets that Adam and Ric Marcus sell. :D project cars with most of its original lower sheetmetal intact are a very rare bird these days for sure; Goes without saying I suppose. Anyway, what a great platform you have to start out with! The oil pump you have chosen looks super heavy duty. I have no idea what the volume output is but I would guess its at least on par with a 911 pump. I spoke with Dean about the whole 4-cam carrera hardline system. With the Stock ID being 11mm on the 356 hardlines and the 911 system being 19mm he felt that a stock 4-cam system would be too restrictive with high pressures. Warren Eads built that oversize system (16mm) on that GT replica he built several years ago. I told Dean about that and though he recommends a stock 911 system he thought that if I at least split the difference at 16mm it would be acceptable. So I'm going with this oversized system. Warren no longer offers it as a kit so I'll have to fabricate the lines.
Anyway my point with all this is you're alot like me. I always want the biggest and trickest stuff I can get my hands on but in pushing the envelope all the weak links in the chain spring up and in this pursuit I've just created more work, time and expense for myself. (Like the industrial engine key way your now looking for.) I've had to rein myself in alot. So my initial impression on your oil system is you have this big manly oil pump working with a small restricive system that may cancel out any additional performance you might expect from it. what does Puater recommend for oil line ID? Don't get me wrong its cool and there will most certainly be the WOW factor with that hanging off the back of the motor but it appears to me we are sort of in the same boat here. Maybe Vic or some other wrenches have an opinion on this. All looks good though!! Keep at it! justin

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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#27 Post by Bill Sargent »

Hi Justin,

Yes, I continue to be pleasantly surprised at how sound the shell of this car is. Last night I removed the pedal box, tach cable and heater cables and even the floor under the pedal box areas is sound. Only real rust is the insideout kind in the bottom of the longitudinals. I am converting to 12V and electric tach so will not need the tach cable.

I also removed the monkey motion shift linkage to clean it up for storage. I plan to use an above tunnel shift set up that Ken Dougherty sells. It was copied from Ray Knight's Sauter roadster. Only mod required will be a hole in the rear linkage cover. Will need to figure out how to mount the back up light switch on this unit.
Will powder coat the small tower and shift rod to match the steering shaft tan parts
Will powder coat the small tower and shift rod to match the steering shaft tan parts
Small hole in linkage cover can be repaired or covered with carpet if monkey motion linkage is reinstalled
Small hole in linkage cover can be repaired or covered with carpet if monkey motion linkage is reinstalled
Should look pretty cool between the speedster seats which arrived from Autobahn interiors yesterday. Since the car will not have engine supplied heat I decided to install seat heaters while doing the upholstry. Here in Alaska the auto parts stores sell kits for $159/seat. Tony at Autobahn did the installation while upholstering the seats. May have the seat heat switches on the shift tower.
Fibersteel speedster seats with seat heater pads.  In final installation each seat will have a separate pad for the bottom and back.  Two heat settings drawing either 2 or 8 amps.
Fibersteel speedster seats with seat heater pads. In final installation each seat will have a separate pad for the bottom and back. Two heat settings drawing either 2 or 8 amps.
I elected to stay somewhat sedate with just wine red leather and no contrasting piping as the carpet is oatmeal.  Messian bue, with wine red interior over oatmeal carpet will be enough contrast!
I elected to stay somewhat sedate with just wine red leather and no contrasting piping as the carpet is oatmeal. Messian bue, with wine red interior over oatmeal carpet will be enough contrast!
Note the seat heater cable coming out of the underside of the seat.  It will go into the tunnel to connect with a small extension wire harness.
Note the seat heater cable coming out of the underside of the seat. It will go into the tunnel to connect with a small extension wire harness.
Regarding the dry sump system, I could easily build a wet sump motor using the stock oil pump, however my project objective was to replicate a 59 carrera GT in all but the 4 cam motor block, hence the dry sump pump & front coolers. No logical rational other than it is what I want to build, and I like building things.

As for the chosen dry sump pump, I know it looks like over kill, but there are only two companies out there making a cam slot drive type dry sump pump and Pauter's is by far the best engineered. And Don Pauter was a pleasure to work with. I do not count the small 4 gear dry sump pump CB performance sells since it will only fit VW type 1 and very early Porsche motors that used the VW tyype insert pump and has less capacity than the late stock pump. The stock late oil pump delivers about 12 GPM while the pressure stage on the Pauter pump will deliver about 16 GPM, or 33% more. I did not really need the extra oil delivery, but the Pauter pump is modular and they only offer one stage size. That is why I will have 32 GPM scavenge capacity with 2 stages when I really only need 1.5X pressure pump capacity. So yes, the pump may be somewhat restricted, but I had a limited choice, and it will handle what I need it to do easily.

I talked at length with Don about line sizes. His biggest concern was on the oil pickup size for scavange suction. The late motors with the 16 mm pickup he felt were adequate. For an early motor with the small pickup, it would have to be upgraded. I went with the 15mm stock carrera hard oil line size to the front coolers and Don thought we would be OK since this motor will not be used for sustained high RPM racing. For your Polo motor I would definately go with larger lines to the front cooler.

Thanks for reading this!
Last edited by Bill Sargent on Sun Aug 07, 2011 3:16 am, edited 1 time in total.
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
#460603 67 912
904 clone in the works

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Bill Sargent
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#28 Post by Bill Sargent »

Lots of grunt work this week. Removed the ignition switch/lock, the front trunk release/lock and the glove box lock & sent them all off to Tony Eugeano. PO had a generic Bosch ignition switch installed, but had the original & keys for it in a box - said it did not work so I assume it has an electrical issue. No keys were present for the hood or glove box locks. Tony can fix the electrical problems in the ignition switch. The hood lock has a key number stamped on it - usually SG xx - so an original key can be made from the number. The glove box has no key number so he will just make one.

Also removed all the gauges and sent them off to Palo Alto Speedo for repair/restoration. Speedo will become a 160 mph carrera unit. Tach will be converted to electric tach and with face markings to match the motor being built - 8K max rpm, green line area from 3K to 6K, red line area 6K to 7K. The old combo gauge will go into storage as I had a 904 tripple combo gauge purchased from PA Speedo about 11 years ago that I never installed in my 64C. It will go back to them to be converted for 12V operation. Clock will also be converted to 12V.

Got the tar paper out of the foot wells and found only surface rust and dirt. Same for pan under rear shift linkage.
Still some dents in the left drivers front corner to get out, but otherwise good.
Still some dents in the left drivers front corner to get out, but otherwise good.
DSCN1307.JPG (73.25 KiB) Viewed 6530 times
Dirty, but sound in here too
Dirty, but sound in here too
DSCN1309.JPG (85.75 KiB) Viewed 6530 times
Friday afternoon was sunny here and I had the day off so a friend came over to help with neutralizing the soda blast residue. After some internet research we determined the following process:
1) Hot water wash with dawn dish detergent, followed by rinse and dry
2) spray all areas that were soda blasted with white vinegar (5% acid). scrub some with small brushes.
3) Let sit for a while, but do not let dry out. Rinse with water and immediately follow with hot water wash with dawn dish detergent, followed by rinse and dry.
4) next morning look for any white residue by seams (soda residue). Repeat above as needed.

Took about 3 hours to do all this with the car on the roll over frame. Only a couple of small spots of residue Saturday morning. All the bare metal now has a slight flash rust, which a phosphating metal prep easily removes.
Area under gas tank with flash rust, nearly ready for paint
Area under gas tank with flash rust, nearly ready for paint
DSCN1323.JPG (86.6 KiB) Viewed 6530 times
Before paint though, I have some small metal repairs to do on the pan and battery box floor. The passenger side front of the battery box was pretty crinkled due to improper jacking as well as hitting a curb when parking (which thankfully did not get the nose clip). I managed to hammer and dolly it pretty well out, but the metal did tear some. See photo below. I think this tear can be welded, perhaps with a copper backup.
Area around the tear has been brushed with phosphoric acid metal prep to remove the flash rust.  Ready to weld
Area around the tear has been brushed with phosphoric acid metal prep to remove the flash rust. Ready to weld
DSCN1325.JPG (60.77 KiB) Viewed 6530 times
The hole in the battery box floor cut by a PO to gain entry....will need a real patch though.
Patch needs to have the rib formed into it prior to welding in place
Patch needs to have the rib formed into it prior to welding in place
DSCN1221.JPG (68.93 KiB) Viewed 6530 times
I thought I would need to use a friend's sheet metal brake to form the rib needed in the middle of the patch, but then a friend who was putting a new pan in his car said I could have the rear 1/2 pan he chose not to use due to quality issues. I can easily cut the patches with ribs from this part. Quality problem was that the ribs running the length of the car did not line up from the front pan to the rear pan like they should. He ended up buying the Danish pans sold by Zims - same as Trevor (of Trevor's Hammer Works - back when he still did cars) did for my 64C 11 years ago.
"Off Spec" floor pan - when front and rear pan were laid out on the floor it was apparent that the ribs running front to rear did not line up between the two pan halfs - off by about 1/2 inch.  Zim's pans are spot on.
"Off Spec" floor pan - when front and rear pan were laid out on the floor it was apparent that the ribs running front to rear did not line up between the two pan halfs - off by about 1/2 inch. Zim's pans are spot on.
DSCN1322.JPG (65.1 KiB) Viewed 6530 times
Tomorrow I start welding in patches to the pan and battery box floor. I had never welded until summer 2010. I paid for or mooched welding from friends for years, but felt it was time to bite the bullet, learn how to weld and get some equipment. Friends taught me some using their rigs and, while I am not good, I am OK for the bottom of the car. My first project was the welding cart in the photo below. Cost for the Miller 211 mig welder (110V or 220V), Hypertherm 30 plasma cutter (110V or 220V), argon/CO2 bottle and varoius safety equipment was about $2000, but I figure I will pay it out pretty quickly.
Motor on the stand next to the welding cart is the 1960 Super motor the PO purchased from Stoddard in 1982 to replace the rod-thru-case original motor.  Has less than 1000 miles on it.
Motor on the stand next to the welding cart is the 1960 Super motor the PO purchased from Stoddard in 1982 to replace the rod-thru-case original motor. Has less than 1000 miles on it.
DSCN0762.JPG (31.56 KiB) Viewed 6530 times
More photos tomorrow of the start of weld repairs. Just don't expect anything near the quality of what Justin does!

Thanks for reading this!
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
#460603 67 912
904 clone in the works

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Bill Sargent
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#29 Post by Bill Sargent »

Had only a couple of hours today to do some welding so I tackled the torn area in the battery box floor. I figured if I started on the difficult one, hopefully it would get easier later. The area around the tear had been streached thin so I expected some blow thru, and I did get some even with the welder set to what should have worked on 24 gauge. I used one of the copper backup tools to help with the thin metal.
Copper back up tool held in place by magent
Copper back up tool held in place by magent
Took several weld, grind and reweld tries to get it all closed up, with several blow thrus along the way. Is smoother than it looks in the photo. Not perfect, but good enough. Will patch the large hole later this week.
Before and after photos of MIG weld repair of torn battery box floor.  Tears went much further than is apparent in the before photo.
Before and after photos of MIG weld repair of torn battery box floor. Tears went much further than is apparent in the before photo.
Thanks for reading this!
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
#460603 67 912
904 clone in the works

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Bill Sargent
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Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera

#30 Post by Bill Sargent »

Got a little more done yesterday and today on the battery box hole. Trimmed the hole to get a clean shape, made a template by tracng thru the hole onto the side of a Cheerios box and marked the position of the rib. Then transfered the shape to the donor pan, after checking that the rib was the same width. Will cut the patch part out tomorrow, most likely using a saber saw with metal blade.
pattern for the patch
pattern for the patch
DSCN1335.JPG (61.54 KiB) Viewed 6422 times
ribs near the center of the pan match those on the battery box floor - or at least close enough!
ribs near the center of the pan match those on the battery box floor - or at least close enough!
DSCN1338.JPG (57.58 KiB) Viewed 6422 times
Had a pleasant surprise this afternoon. Sent a letter to the gentleman whose card I found in the heater tube and he called this afternoon. Turns out it was not his car, but he used to work for a loan company across the street from a used car lot in the 70s and the car lot had his cards in case someone needed a loan. He figures the used car lot gave his card to the car's owner, who then made the notes on the back. Dead end, but nice of him to call.

I was able to purchase an industrial cam insert which arrived today. Vic Skirmants suggested the use of the insert to handle possible extra wear that the dry sump oil pump might cause. It was part of a kit supplied to retrofit industrial motors. Brad Ripley purchased several of the kits and Gerry McCarthey then purchased some of the kits from Brad. Gerry was kind enough to sell me this kit. The photo shows a stock oil pump gear by the one supplied with the cam slot insert. The one for use with the cam slot insert is exactly 5mm shorter. If anyone wants to replicate the cam slot insert part, Email me and I can supply the dimensions.
Stock oil pump gear on the left
Stock oil pump gear on the left
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Cam slot insert as fitted to the cam
Cam slot insert as fitted to the cam
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The last parts for my motor build, the heads, arrived over the weekend from my machinist. They started life as industrial heads. Mods include twin plug, 42mm intake valves (stock exhaust valves), dobule springs with titanium retainers and unshrouding of the valves.
Heads opened up for 90 mm LN cylinders.  42mm intake and twin plugs
Heads opened up for 90 mm LN cylinders. 42mm intake and twin plugs
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Double springs with titanium retainers
Double springs with titanium retainers
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Back to patch making and welding tomorrow. Thanks for reading this!
Regards,

Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab
#460603 67 912
904 clone in the works

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