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PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 7:21 pm 
356 Fan

Joined: Tue May 31, 2011 10:07 pm
Posts: 479
Location: VT
Hi all,

My first post here at the registry.

I learned about this 64 356C a couple of years ago, located only about 1/2 mile up the road from me parked in a garage since 86.

Typical story: Husband passed and elderly woman left car sitting in garage. I have spoken with her several times and she finally expressed interest in selling the car at a price I thought was fair. Let me know how I did, I do not have any experience with 356's... I believe it was a fair deal based on the research I have done. The PO was original owner, car was bought in CT and ended up at their vacation home 1/2 mile up the road from me.

The ODO says 14,700. While I find it difficult to believe it has such low mileage, there is little to suggest it has 114K. Maybe the ODO broke, not sure yet. FWIW, she did say "He barely ever drove it" and her son only remembers it sitting under the green car cover in the garage.

The car has been repainted original color back in the 80's. I think it looks good as is, so no plans to repaint at this time.

There was an enormous mouse nest under pedal board, which rotted out the front of the pan, extending a little ways into fr bulkhead and small area of inner longitudinals. Other then that the car is very solid, T bar area and longitudinals in good shape overall. The bat box needs some help, but not too bad. I have examined the car carefully as it is now in my shop. I do see some previous repairs, but no big surprises thus far.

The car has some ancient looking Michelin tires, surprisingly good shape but obviously will not be using them!

The engine is stuck. the oil in CC was clean, and the car ran well when parked but that is all I know. I filled the CC with oil, poured marvel mystery oil down carbs and pulled plugs and sprayed various penetrating oils in cyls. two weeks later is still stuck. I did not want to put too much force on the crank bolt, and do not want to risk any further damage to engine so its coming out.

Here are pics of where it sat since late 80's, it had a cover on it. Paid $10k for this bucket o' bolts

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Last edited by M Penta on Sat Jun 24, 2017 10:17 pm, edited 16 times in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 7:21 pm 
356 Fan

Joined: Tue May 31, 2011 10:07 pm
Posts: 479
Location: VT
Here are pics of dragging it out of garage, front wheels were locked up so steering it was tough. First attempt to pull it out of there I got the trailer squared up and ramps out, then a severe storm came in as I was trying to get the winch on the trailer working. Had to abort mission a try again later. Fortunately this time a friend gave me a hand and it all went smoothly. Getting it off the trailer I was on my own, had to stick a bar in my floor drain and winch from there:

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The car is now up in the air in the shop. So far I have stripped out interior, and started to clean/cut/grind - gonna be a long road.

So far I ordered Fr Pan, Fr bulkhead repair panel and toe board mounts, pedal board. Also ordering everything to rebuild brakes.

The stock muffler and boxes appear to be OK, but the heater control valves are shot.


Attachments:
1st Porsche.jpg
1st Porsche.jpg [ 322.58 KiB | Viewed 1387 times ]


Last edited by M Penta on Wed Aug 17, 2016 7:27 pm, edited 9 times in total.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 7:36 pm 
356 Fan
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Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2008 4:41 pm
Posts: 4209
Location: San Francisco
Tag: Porsche enthusiast
Mark, what a great find! Based on the photos and your description I think you got a good deal. Hopefully the engine won't need much work and the trans will be okay. Is the clutch stuck also?

I hope you do keep it stock. Does the seller have any old documentation on the car, old repair receipts, etc.? Something that would show the mileage on a certain date and might help you establish the total mileage?

If the driver's seat upholstery is original, I would say you may well have a 14K total mileage car. But what you really need is some hard copy documentation.

You can check to see if the odometer will turn over by rolling it downhill a mile in neutral. ;-) Seriously, don't try that until you get the brakes working!

Best regards,

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Barry Brisco
1959 356A Coupe 105553, Ivory / Brown
2009 987 Cayman, Carrera White / Beige (daily driver)


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 7:50 pm 
356 Fan

Joined: Tue May 31, 2011 10:07 pm
Posts: 479
Location: VT
Thanks Barry,

Not sure if clutch is stuck. The pedal actuates smoothly but certainly there is a good chance the disc is stuck to shaft.

Once I get the brakes/fr bearings serviced I'll spin the wheel and see if odo works.

The seats are in decent original shape, but there are some weak looking seems and I do not trust hopping in and out of the car with out damaging them. I know a good upholstery guy, I'll see what he recommends.

I'm not sure what I will find when I go into the engine, but I am planning on a complete overhaul, which won't happen for some time. I am assuming the the trans is fine, it shifts smoothly and is full of clean oil anyway...

I have some info on the PO's PCA memebership, manuals and some service records written into manual, but nothing past 8800 miles.

I asked the woman if the engine had ever been out and she confidently answered no, she was certain it never had any major work, But who really knows...

Her husband was an engineer for GE electric boat in CT, apparently a real perfectionist.
There is no question they were original owner, but hard to believe such low mileage.

Too bad his son did not atleast keep the mice out of it and turn the engine over occasionally. But then again, it'd probably be out of my price range too!


Last edited by M Penta on Wed Aug 17, 2016 7:26 pm, edited 8 times in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 12:34 am 
356 Fan
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Joined: Sun Feb 22, 2009 12:34 am
Posts: 942
Location: Lafayette, LA
Well I would consider that Porsche oil tag on the filter canister pretty rare, and would imagine it would not last too long. Definitely would not last 114,000 miles.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 1:01 am 
356 Fan

Joined: Sat May 17, 2008 3:49 pm
Posts: 179
Location: Schaumburg, IL
I'd try to save the seats- the covers don't lok too bad to me. I wouldn't recommend climbing in and out of them until you've re-infused the leather. Try Leatherique in South Carolina. They can also set you up with brush on dye as well. Good results on a couple cars so far.

Kevin M


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 5:16 pm 
356 Fan
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Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2008 1:00 am
Posts: 7027
Tag: KTF
Great patina, I would get it running and leave the rest "as found".

Nice find! I need to work a little harder.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 5:02 pm 
356 Fan

Joined: Tue May 31, 2011 10:07 pm
Posts: 479
Location: VT
Thank you!

I'm leaving as much alone as possible, but I need to replace the front pan/bulkhead/pedal board braces/diagonal, also carpet is a must since it stinks like mouse pee and is badly deteriorated, also need to replace brake lines/full brake system rebuild, and then there is the stuck engine...

So far I have stripped interior, removed front pan, bulkhead and diagonal. Grinding/prepping/cleaning. No big surprises so far, longitudinal's look pretty good overall so no plans to cut them open. Glad I bought a new respirator, very messy job. I wish I put some plastic up around the car, my shop is a mess...

Once all sheet metal work is completed and treated I plan on drilling (3) 1" holes in longs so that I can vacuum them out and treat them, and every other blind cavity with cosmoline.

I have used cosmoline on other cars and like it, but am open to suggestions on any alternatives that may be better.

My goal is to get the bottom side finished/treated and then the car can sit while I rebuild brake components, engine, etc.

Getting to know her intimately now, and I realize I have it pretty easy compared to some of the cars I see getting saved here.

Thanks for the tip on the seats, I will check them out.

Some pics of initial clean out/tear down:

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Last edited by M Penta on Fri Jun 23, 2017 11:39 am, edited 12 times in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 12:11 am 
356 Fan
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Joined: Sun Feb 22, 2009 12:34 am
Posts: 942
Location: Lafayette, LA
Something to consider about drilling those 1 inch holes... you can access the inside of the longitudinals from the inner longitudinal as well as the outer. If you drill the inner longitudinal you can tack weld a caver over the hole, seam seal it, and the whole thing will disappear once the carpet is reinstalled.
I am posting a picture of a speedster I just finished. If you look just ahead of the seat mount on the side of the inner longitudinal you can see my 1 inch hole that I drilled to allow the E-coat to flow through the longitudinal. After this picture was taken I spot welded a small panel over the hole (by just spot welding there is minimal paint/E-coat loss) and seam sealed it. Now that the carpet is in place you cannot even tell that panel is there. The best thing about it is the peace of mind knowing the inside of the longitudinals are protected far better than the factory ever was able to but at the same time the modifications done to make this possible are hidden.
Hope this give you some ideas,
JIM


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 5:54 pm 
356 Fan

Joined: Tue May 31, 2011 10:07 pm
Posts: 479
Location: VT
Beautiful floor!

I am aware the pan sits on top of side flanges, and it is supposed to sit under the rear Pan. So I guess a slit or square corner cut is necessary to go under the R pan?

I am tempted to just use some rubber plugs in the Longitudinal holes, may be nice to have easy access in the future.


Last edited by M Penta on Wed Nov 16, 2016 8:32 pm, edited 9 times in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 2:51 pm 
Any car that is dark blue with a red interior is ok by me. There aren't many of us. :D Great find.


Bill


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 8:56 pm 
356 Fan

Joined: Tue May 31, 2011 10:07 pm
Posts: 479
Location: VT
Thanks, I too love this color combo!

Finally found some time to continue prep work, test fit bulkhead/diagonal.

Pics are of various stages of grinding/cleaning. I still have a lot more prep work/cleaning to do, panels are just test fit. Forgive my messy garage, pics taken after hours of grinding, etc.

The floor ledges are solid except for a couple of isolated rusty area's I cut out. I patched these area's and blended them in, keeping the stock ledges intact. I was considering full perimeter kit, but decided i'd be better off leaving the existing in place since they are in solid shape.

The new diagonal is temporarily installed, still have work to do to get it to fit well.

The bulkhead repair is also just test fit, I am happy with how it will fit. I also have new pedal board supports which will go in last.

So far so good. I'm getting ahead of myself with the panel test fit though, as the prep work is not even close.

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Last edited by M Penta on Sat Jan 16, 2016 3:45 pm, edited 10 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 09, 2011 2:32 pm 
356 Fan

Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2008 12:29 pm
Posts: 502
Location: New Mexico
Mark,
Nice looking car, and a great buy I think!

If the rear 3/4 of the floor are sound, then a partial repair of the front makes good sense. You should do the perimeter repairs properly. That would mean butt welds, clean metal to new metal. Below is a photo of this area being repaired on my own car.

Good luck, and keep the photos coming.
DG

Attachment:
frtperim.jpg
frtperim.jpg [ 165.09 KiB | Viewed 4698 times ]


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frtperim.jpg [ 165.09 KiB | Viewed 4698 times ]

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 3:54 pm 
356 Fan

Joined: Tue May 31, 2011 10:07 pm
Posts: 479
Location: VT
Thanks David,
I read your thread, what an ambitious project, must have taken an eternity! Very impressive fabrication work!



Mark


Last edited by M Penta on Tue Feb 21, 2012 11:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 8:29 pm 
356 Fan
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Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2008 4:45 pm
Posts: 154
Location: waynearny@aol is monitored more frequently
Mark,

I am driving a '57 I found in similar circumstances. I think you're doing absolutely the right thing by replacing all the hydraulic lines. I also ended up replacing the long cable that runs from the battery though the car to the engine bay. I was told they tend to break down metallurgically with age, and I was having weird shorting problems. Fixed it completely. Also replace the 2-3 braided ground straps.

Good luck!

Wayne Arny
'57 coupe

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