55 Coupe project

[Steve Harrison]

Oh, and I also forgot to mention, there is another oddity that isn't quite as straightforward as it might seem. The passage that I cleaned out doesn't just travel straight down to the main chamber like you think it would. The very bottom of the drilled passage is also plugged with brass. There is another passage drilled at a downward angle that intersects the first verticle shaft. This angled hole goes into the main chamber downstream of the main orifice, which means it's actually drilled into the boss that holds the emulsion tube. You can see the brass plug for this angled hole just above my pointer that is sticking out of the main jet hole in the second picture. This angled hole had to be drilled through the pump jet holder hole so it actually has two brass plugs,...one for the exterior, and one to close off the drilled hole from the pump jet hole. This angled hole wasn't clogged because when I cleaned out the verticle hole, the passage then flowed like it should. I thought I'd mention this because someone may think that the first verticle shaft is just further clogged at the bottom and drill through it into the main chamber. This would feed the idle circuit with fuel from before the main orifice, thus throwing off the "dependent" nature of the carb, and probably causing other unknown problems.

Man,..these things are a maze, and probably a challenge to machine back before computer controlled mills we have today.

[Steve Harrison]

With this engine basicaly done I want now to get the rest of the mechanicals finished before really working towards finished paint. The basic body work is done, but when I shoot paint, I want just about everything else to be either finished, or ready to bolt on. To that end, I decided to start with the front end and work my way back. Off came the orginal steering box.

When I got it open there was a lot of crud in it. The upper seal isn't a seal at all,..more like a felt packing. It lets in water and then forms a sort of oily rusty slurry. This made the bearings gritty. I cleaned it all out and all is back to right. When the new seals come from NLA all this will be painted and ready to go back together. Another domino falls...a million more to go.

[Frank Schanko]

nice

[Steve Harrison]

Here's how it came out. Somewhere I have lost the filler plug in the shop somewhere between the blasting cabinet and the parts washer. It'll turn up I hope soon.

Also, I found out another odd thing about the PBJ carbs today. I knew that inside the main emulsion tubes are removeable inserts that help with the fuel/air emulsion. But Jim says there are at least three versions of these! I have examples of two. One has a closed end and equally sized holes, the other has an open end and increasing size holes. The spec book makes no mention of this being different between the pre-A engines, (1100, 1300, and 1500 engines and supers.)_ We're working on finding out which goes with which. There's more to these little carbs than I thought. : )

[Steve Harrison]

I just got back from a trip to Northern California,.Quincy to be exact. Bought some land out there and will be moving in a year or two, as soon as the wife finds a job, ha ha. A lot has happened with the car and I thought I'd get to posting some updates. Finally got the engine done completely.

[Steve Harrison]

Well, with the engine basicaly done I've been working on some of the more mundane parts of the restoration. Thought I'd post a few pics of how I got the sway bar bushings out of the brackets. For anybody who has tried to get these things out you know what I am talking about when I say they can be a challenge. After being in there for half a century it's like they're vulcanized in there. They might actualy BE vulcanized in there originally for all I know. All I know is they're a bear to get out,..till I hit on this method.

[Justin Rio]

Nice work Steve! There are many ways up the mountain. I usually warm the link up with a torch. Then old rubber comes out like a marshmellow but like I said there are many ways. Motor looks great! Keep at it! Justin

[Mark Collins]

looking good there..

[sven stark]

I think the nit-picky error is that the label on oil filter is supposed to be on the cover of the filter and not where it is now. And I'm not sure about the green colour either...

[Steve Harrison]

Hello Sven,

You are right about the label being wrong. Nice catch!
I ordered the right two piece decal from NLA and it was a mess when I tried to use it. They just disintegrated when they got wet. So I just went ahead and used the single sticker for the slightly earlier Mann filter.

The color however, is correct. Got that directly from Ken D.
There are at least two other things wrong, one fairly obvious, another not so much.
It's the little things....

[Brad Ripley]

My best guesses:

Coil is on an angle; should be straight up.
Strap for filter should be clear zinc.
Distributor cap should have brass valve clearance plate.
Clamp for generator should have bolt off to the right side.

[Phil Planck]

If that is a 3 piece case, I don't think they had the brass tag on the distibutor. The valve clearance specs on the tag are not correct for 3 piece as I recall. Also, I have not been paying attention to this detail, but my 55 has no boots on the generator wires and I see none on this one. Were the rubber boots used in 1955?

[Steve Harrison]

Hello Phil,

Yes, the brass tag was used in 55 on the three piece case, but only on Super's. The tag reminds people that the valve clearance dimensions are different for the Super. As for the generator boots, this engine is on my test stand so I didn't bother with them. I'll use them when in the car. I have no idea if that's correct, but I assume it is.

Brad,
Good observations, and ones I hadn't really thought about.
My guesses for your guesses:

Coil angle is probably right,...I think it changed with the "new" three piece case. This is the original motor so, even thought the fan housing might have been swapped, I'm thinking not.

The filter strap being zinc,...you are probably right about that one. I just looked at a few show winners and they show zinc. In putting this engine together I sort of used this engine by Joe Ruiz as a guide and it has black painted strap, but it's an earlier four bolt filter. I'm not going to change it, but you're probably right on the finish.

Distributor brass is for Supers.
(Sounds like "Silly Rabbit...

Generator strap bolt on the right? You're probably right about that one also. I'd never thought about it much, but it seemed more out of the way of the wires the way I have it. I'll probably leave it.

Nobody mentioned the small hole in the lower right cylinder cover. I never knew why some of the tin I have has the hole and some not. Apparently it's for a plug wire holder for a later type engine? Just recently heard something to that effect on another thread. So,...I used the wrong one here. I have another without a hole, but I don't think it's worth the trouble to change at this point. Also...and this is busting on myself a bit,... the coil is an early LUCAS 12 volt with a Bosch sticker on it! The give away are the thick brass nuts that hold the wires on. Sacriledge, yes,.but I wanted 12 volt, and I had the coil already, and it fit the holder perfectly.
You'd have to use a mirror or stand on your head in the engine compartment to see the word Lucas on it,...and the engine doesn't seem to mind.

Fun.

[Alan Hall]

Steve,
I knows its a little late, but I was reviewing you recent posts and noticed the question about the Solex emmulsion tubes. The brass tubes should have a small number stamped near the top. For a type 546/2 1500 motor the 32pbi carbs should use a #28 emmulsion tube, while most 1100 and 1300N motors used a #23 emmulsion tube and 1300S used a #0 tube. The #28 tube has larger holes at the highest location while a #23 tube has equal size holes everywhere. The tube used on 32pbic carbs for a 1600N was a #33 which has 3 different size holes.

Looking at your photo, it appears the tube on the left is a #23 and the one on the right is a #33
Alan

[Steve Harrison]

Alan, you are eagle eyed. That is the number on the two tubes I am holding. I guess I should have updated that part of the thread earlier. I did find out what tubes I should have and they are indeed the 28 size. Problem is that neither Jim, nor anybody else I have contacted has a set of them. Jim suggested going with the 33's and it seems to be ok. But I would like to have a set of the 28's to try if anybody has them. They're the most popular, so I guess harder to find. I'd trade the 23 if someone want to.