The Official 356Talk Forum

I removed my threshold seal and rubber step plate to replace a rusted U-channel, fortunately finding everything underneath in perfect condition including original paint, and need to order replacements.
Stoddard sells a Threshold Seal Set marked specifically for Pre-A and 356A (356.52.809) and IM sells one for all models, M1. I also need a replacement rubber step plate.
Any advice on which to get or other sources?
Thanks,
David

The rubber step plate did not change during Reutter 356 production from 1952 onward I believe.

The lower seal did change - early ones are squared off, as in your photo. Later ones were rounded. Stoddard carries the new ones made (I suspect) by Giuseppe Felet, who has been on a tear lately making very accurate rubber bits for our pre-A cars. Big improvements over the old stuff carried by IM and others. I would get the new Stoddard ones.

I'm just trying to get this and all the rubbers seals around the door installed in our '55, the accompanying picture of how we found her in might give a clue as to why I have no idea how it was. That's a much younger me actually driving her in the garage block just after we got her back home, note the lightened racing seat and Le Mans access 'door'. I have looked at the various 'go to sources' I normally use, Brett Johnson, Steve harrison, etc and just want to make sure, before I start drilling holes and cutting rubber, that I have it right. I understand there should be an L shaped aluminium length in the fold of the threshold rubber screwed to the metal, and also a length of 'ally' holding down the outside edge of the flat threshold rubber, is this cut into the lock post and hinge pillar, I think the door seal sits on top of the threshold rubber, and I thought I had got alll the alluminium trim bits I need but not sure about this bit that is inside the threshold wedge shaped bit. Sorry this may not seem logical and a bit muddled there are so many questions but basically what does this look like?

V
PS I managed to get the glass in and it works, but even with cheap 1955 labour no bloody wonder these cars were so expensive to start with. OK they may have had a better & quicker method than me as it took me hours, putting things in and taking them out again , sooo many things put in taken out but basically here's how it worked for me;
To install door glass; simply put glass inside door , put winder mechanism inside door, (neither attached to anything or each other) get chrome frame 1/2 in door, whilst frame 1/2 in door fit bottom L brackets to frame, get glass on winder mechanism, fix this glass and winder assembly to door, fix frame to door whilst fiddling with glass and winder mechanism so glass goes in the channels and winds up & down all the time ensuring the frame and paint not buggered. What a palaver just to fit the door glass! & I've only done the passenger side! But it was a 'YES RESULT!' moment when it all worked and the door shut without knocking a lumps out of anything. Now will it still shut when I get all the seals installed!!

Update:

Threshold step rubber - I bought IM threshold step rubbers that are an exact match to the originals in both rib spacing and thickness (3.45mm +/-). Of note to anyone restoring a Pre-A, my originals extended forward, unsupported, past the front edge of the threshold metal by about 3/4" into the void between the hinge post and door front edge. I glued them with 2 coats of 3-M spray trim adhesive with folded, pull out, wax paper to separate them while positioning. See annotated photo.

U-channels - The originals are painted either body color, Pasha Red, or the dash maroon, but impossible to tell which due to their condition. They are not semi-gloss black.

Threshold gasket - I bought a pair both from IM (p/n M1, pair $26) and Stoddard (p/n 356.52.809, pair, $54.68). The IMs are thinner in all dimensions and softer than the Stoddards which are exactly like the originals except the tapered flaps on both are a few mm shorter than the originals. I test fit both and the thinner IMs are much, much easier to work with (fitting and drilling the U-channels) but decided to use the Stoddard to keep my original U-channel hold spacing. If one uses the IMs keep in mind that the U-channel/screw holes will fit closer to the car's center line and to change to the Stoddard originals will require drilling new U-channel holes to accommodate the gaskets's thicker profile.

A 2009 post from Jim Karaba describes a great fitting technique: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=25423

David
PS: Vincent - love the photo!

Cool David. On the lower threshold seal, which did you end up using that allowed not have having to redrill holes? The Stoddard one? Couldn't follow your description.

I think the U channel that fits under the threshold seal might be painted in the typical off-black primer that was used on lots of parts such as the door inner frames, the brackets that hold the bottom of the dash to the defroster tube, etc. At least this is the color I've seen. Whatever paint is on there is really thin, as usually all you find is rust. =)

Did you find that the U channel was nailed in place or screwed in place?

James,

Sorry if I wasn't clear but I used the Stoddard seals since the thickness of the rubber that encases the U-channel is the same as the original and thus the original U-channel holes line up with the original holes in the horizontal rocker/threshold. If I was starting with new rockers I'd seriously consider using the thinner IM seals since they so much easier to work with and likely easier to fit replacements ... but as you know I'm deep into "doing no (or as little as possible!) harm"!

The U-channel paint is definitely not some variant of black primer. The rear outside of the U-channels are not badly rusted and clearly show either Pasha Red or maroon and likely the latter similar to the dash.

The U-channels are held in place with 7 sheet metal screws per side, not 4 typical on later cars. It appears from examining the underside of the rocker that Reutter used some type of hole punch or bit that left a very protruding "bur" that further captures the screw threads. One screw was stripped and I was able to hammer/punch the bur closed and the screw tightened perfectly.

David

Thanks to you both, a great help, as was the link to the other post.
V

Hello, Sorry to bother you all on this again but the screws you descibe as 'sheet metal' for the 'U Channel' are they the same simple pan head slotted 3.5mmX9mm as described in Jim Karaba's superb instructions and photos of the post in viewtopic.php?f=1&t=25423 of 2011.
V
PS Got the original door card on the near side in and the window winder and door latch still work RESULT!! Putting pop studs on it would have been a great help with the 'put it on/take it off/fiddle with something' process. Delighted with the look of the original against the new. But that pesky 1/4 light rubber is too stiff in the cold & damp we are having at the moment to manipulate.

Wow, that's looking fantastic Vincent!

Love the Azure blue. Looks perfect.

Vincent,
Yes they are simple pan-head screws, 3.5x9 or 13. The length doesn't really matter since they simply screw through the u-channel and rocker metal into thin air underneath.
David

Thanks, as always a great help.