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 Post subject: small gauge on far left
PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 4:01 pm 
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This Kienzle oil temp gauge was in my car when we got it. It had a dipstick sender, which I can't seem to find. I am not sure if it is correct or a period correct option. I also wonder if anyone has ideas or sources for a sender.
mark


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 7:28 pm 
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Mark,
As far as I know the Stork and all the other pre-A temp gages were mechanical and the dip stick was at the end of, and part of, the long capillary tube coming out of the gage. If you had a dipstick sender it sounds like maybe someone had converted the gage to an electric gage. If the dipstick was cut off a mechanical gage the gage is pretty much toast as I don't think anyone rebuilds these anymore. If it was converted to electric the dipstick sender has become nearly impossible to find, but you might check with No. Hollywood or Palo Alto. An examination of the gage should indicate if it has a cut capillary or a wire to connect to a sender.
Alan


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 9:51 pm 
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Very cool Mark! I've never seen the Kienzle version of this gauge. Störk and Moto-Meter also made versions of these that look almost identical. The 2-needle version seems to be from 1953 and later, as most of the '52 cars I've seen had the single needle version. That said, I've never seen a Kienzel, so who knows.

Agree that if the dip stick is not connected, then the capillary tube had been cut. It can be repaired in Europe if you ever find the dip stick tube. =)


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 11:09 pm 
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Here's the Stork from my 1953 that's recently back from repair by North Hollywood. It took about 6 months and I believe they had to send it to a specialist who found and fixed the leak and recharged the tube with I believe is ether. I'm not sure what the original gas was but I checked it in boiling water it seems pretty accurate.
Not shown is the slip-on handle that allows the probe to be inserted/removed from the dipstick tube.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 11:32 am 
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David, What brand was your original?

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 8:38 pm 
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I spoke to North Hollywood, they replace the electronics and then use an oil drain plug as the sender. Not terribly expensive , I am going to try it and save all of the parts in case another method gets figured out.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 11:10 pm 
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Mine is a Stork. Below is another photo of the temp probe dipstick with the handle attached and the metal bracket that attaches to a screw on the driver side horizontal engine tin and holds the flex cable up off the tin. Repro brackets available but can't recall where.
If you haven't, you might want to talk with Palo Alto to see what they can do.
David


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2017 4:05 pm 
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David Green wrote:
Below is another photo of the temp probe dipstick with the handle attached and the metal bracket that attaches to a screw on the driver side horizontal engine tin and holds the flex cable up off the tin.




On the driver side - - - in a right-hand drive P-356 car ;)

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2017 4:12 pm 
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David, What is the silver condensor that comes off of the D Reg?

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2017 6:12 pm 
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That's a noise suppressor for the radio so you don't hear the generator whine through the speaker.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2017 1:38 am 
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David Green wrote:
Repro brackets available but can't recall where.David


Stefano Gatti s_gatti@tin.it makes reproduction convertible top frames and his pal (I think Paulo) makes the capillary tube brackets and usually has a few at the Lit Show in LA.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2017 10:50 am 
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Try your local lawn equipment shop for a bracket.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2017 3:58 pm 
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Robert Brocker makes/sells that clamp.

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