My choke cable has been out of my car for about 50 years. That is the center wire is out, the sheath has been in the whole time. Anyway as part of changing my dash back to a correct one, I decided to re-install the choke cable. After much grease and sliding in and out I can get the cable in about 2/3 of the way starting from the dash or about 2/3 of the way starting at the engine, Thus it is clear that the sheath is not blocked, but no way can I get the cable to go all the way in either direction and it seems to hit a fairly positive stop in both cases. The inner wire had a few rough spots, perhaps due to slight rust, so I sanded it smooth and re-greased it again, also tried filing the end as rounded as I could figuring it would pass through easier, Still can not get it to go all the way. Wondered if anyone else has installed a choke cable and if they found any tricks to make it easier.
Alan
Installing pre-A choke cable
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Alan Hall
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 1462
- Joined: Wed Mar 26, 2008 12:06 pm
- Location: Orinda, CA
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John Brooks
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 2169
- Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2008 11:50 am
- Location: Whidbey Island WA.
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Re: Installing pre-A choke cable
Alan
I have done a similar installation on a old diesel bus. I got the longest piece of choke cable that I could find, cut off the knob leaving the shaft and crimp. Oil the sheath and blew it with high pressure air until it ran close to clear at the other end. Then I rotated the long cable in the direction of the sheath wire spiral with an electric drill. Slowly insert in into the sheath, carefully not to rotate it too fast and stop and withdraw it if it fees like it's binding. Light oil and grease will carry away any rust or dirt. The rotation of the cable will polish the inside, after it protrudes from the other end spin the drill at high speed wile pulling out and pushing it about 2-3". The cable will smooth any burrs on the inside of the sheath like honing a wheel cylinder. Then the original cable will slide right in. If it gets tight twist it in the direction of the sheath winding, the cable is going through a bend with a tight radius. Twist and push it will go in.
I have done a similar installation on a old diesel bus. I got the longest piece of choke cable that I could find, cut off the knob leaving the shaft and crimp. Oil the sheath and blew it with high pressure air until it ran close to clear at the other end. Then I rotated the long cable in the direction of the sheath wire spiral with an electric drill. Slowly insert in into the sheath, carefully not to rotate it too fast and stop and withdraw it if it fees like it's binding. Light oil and grease will carry away any rust or dirt. The rotation of the cable will polish the inside, after it protrudes from the other end spin the drill at high speed wile pulling out and pushing it about 2-3". The cable will smooth any burrs on the inside of the sheath like honing a wheel cylinder. Then the original cable will slide right in. If it gets tight twist it in the direction of the sheath winding, the cable is going through a bend with a tight radius. Twist and push it will go in.
John Brooks
62 Roadster
66 912
84 Cab
getting pushed around in porsches since 1965
62 Roadster
66 912
84 Cab
getting pushed around in porsches since 1965
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Alan Hall
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 1462
- Joined: Wed Mar 26, 2008 12:06 pm
- Location: Orinda, CA
Re: Installing pre-A choke cable
John,
Thanks for the suggestions.
Tried blowing through the sheath, but since it is a spiral wrap doubt it got very far as the air just escapes between the wraps. I got an old VW heater cable and tried to really grease up the sheath by running the heater cable covered with grease from both ends as far as it would go. I re-rounded the tip of the choke cable again, and pulled the sheath out from the fan shroud so it could be a straight shot from where it exited the tunnel to the end. Still got hung up, I think right where it was exiting the tunnel, so made a fixture to hold the sheath in a totally straight line from the tunnel exit back, and was finally able to get it through, pushing about a half inch at a time. I suspect the cable tended to get hung up at all of the sheath bends and the sheath was probably slightly kinked where it went through the fire wall where it exited the tunnel. Never done so much work for something I will never use...haven't needed it in 50 years, and in mild Calif weather I am sure I never will need it. But the old "strangler" S knob sure looks nice back on the dash.
Alan
Thanks for the suggestions.
Tried blowing through the sheath, but since it is a spiral wrap doubt it got very far as the air just escapes between the wraps. I got an old VW heater cable and tried to really grease up the sheath by running the heater cable covered with grease from both ends as far as it would go. I re-rounded the tip of the choke cable again, and pulled the sheath out from the fan shroud so it could be a straight shot from where it exited the tunnel to the end. Still got hung up, I think right where it was exiting the tunnel, so made a fixture to hold the sheath in a totally straight line from the tunnel exit back, and was finally able to get it through, pushing about a half inch at a time. I suspect the cable tended to get hung up at all of the sheath bends and the sheath was probably slightly kinked where it went through the fire wall where it exited the tunnel. Never done so much work for something I will never use...haven't needed it in 50 years, and in mild Calif weather I am sure I never will need it. But the old "strangler" S knob sure looks nice back on the dash.
Alan