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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 6:06 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 25, 2016 6:27 pm
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Ahh. Its so nice with people that know what they are talking about.
Found some pics from when i bought the car and it seems like the dimmer switch and gearknob is not correct so
the search continue.. Tanks for the Ebay link on the relay..

Here is some pics of my dach and some of the parts i got with it.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 6:11 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 25, 2016 6:27 pm
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From this pic could someone tell if the fusebox is in the middle of the car? Looks like there are som big wire clamps that goes
to the middle.. Is that for the main loom? Have i understand correct that the fusebox is for 12 fuses?
Have my car 2hours away and with a newborn that would not sleep i have only pics to look at for the moment..

K


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2016 3:52 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2012 3:03 pm
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Kent,

Does your car still have its original 1500 engine?
3-piece crankcase, or 2-pc. crankcase engine??


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2016 4:54 pm 
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No, sadly it has a 1956 1600. I belive it should have a 2pc. But i think i never will find a correct engine that i can affoard so i think i have to be happy with my 1600.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2016 12:29 am 
356 Fan

Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2012 3:03 pm
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Kent,

That question relates to your broken oil temperature gauge - - -
The type of engine you plan to install in your car will determine what you specify to the instrument shop that repairs the temperature gauge.

The original Stoerk temperature gauge is a thermo-mechanical type gauge in which the remote temp sensor is permanently attached to the gauge via a long miniature copper capillary tube. The remote sensor screws into the case near the oil cooler on the 1500 3-pc. case engines. On 2-pc. case engines the remote sensor replaces the standard oil dipstick. Some early 1600 engine cases also will accommodate the threaded remote sensor near the oil cooler stand. It might be a good idea to look over your engine and confirm which remote sensor design suits your needs before sending the oil temp gauge out for repair.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2016 4:40 am 
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Ahh. Of course. Tanks..


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2016 4:11 pm 
356 Fan

Joined: Mon Jul 25, 2016 6:27 pm
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So i have tanks to you guys found lightswitch with rheostat and the floor switch. was at my garage today and i found this ligther (hope its the right name) is this for Porsche as someone say or is it a option?

Do anyone have the Bosch number on the voltage regulator? Since i have a 54 should it not be in the back?

Tanks, Kent


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2016 9:55 pm 
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Location: Southern San Joaquin Valley, California
Donald Zingg wrote:
The original Stoerk temperature gauge is a thermo-mechanical type gauge...


Donald is of course correct in his description of the T/M gauge and cap tube hookup but in addition to Stoerk, some of the earlier gauges were made by Moto Meter. Hartmut at N. Hollywood told me a few years ago when he rebuilt my '53 gauges that in his thirty years experience about 10% were made by MM and the other 90% by Stoerk. I'm not sure when the factory switched to all Stoerk (my '55 has the identical gauge made by Stoerk), but if your car has a Moto Meter oil temp gauge installed don't throw it away looking for a Stoerk!

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2016 6:21 pm 
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Found this in my box of porsche parts i have.. See on ebay it sold as pre a starter button, but should it be black? This is mabye the reverse switch?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2016 8:07 pm 
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Kent Hogseth wrote:
...as pre a starter button, but should it be black? This is mabye the reverse switch?

The earlier starter buttons were dark brown. This is from a '51 coupe. My '53 button is ivory and my '55 button is beige.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 1:17 pm 
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Kent, all the pre-A start buttons are the same design and manufacturer (Kirsten), just different colors

1950-52 (split-window cars): black (Spencer's is faded to brown)
1952-54 (bent-window cars): ivory
1954-55: grey or beige, matching the other dash buttons and steering wheel color

The one in your photo would be correct for a split-window pre-A.

And yes, that's an Autofume cigar lighter in your photo above. This was common on the 1950-54 cars with ivory buttons, but also common on lots of German cars of the era. The 1954 Autofum would have the beige or grey knob on it, shaped differently than that in your photo.

Porsche switched from ivory knobs to grey or beige knobs in ~April 1954, sometime between coupes 51891 and 51942, so your car would have had the grey or beige knobs. The knobs were totally different shape from the earlier ivory knobs used on pre-As, including the Autofum light knob.

Here's some period photos from Mats Carlsson of coupe 52280

viewtopic.php?p=207016#p207016

A good reference for your car.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 1:25 pm 
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As for the voltage regulator, originally it would have been either of these:

Bosch RS/UA 160/6/13
Bosch RS/UA 160/6/15

Depending on the number of mounting holes on the bracket holding it to the engine firewall. The early /13 regulators are held on with 4 screws (2 each side). The /15 is held on with 3 screws (2 on left side, 1 on right side). Have a look at your firewall.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 1:05 am 
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K in a circle was Leopold Kostal
lighting bolt logo = Franz Kirsten (now part of Eaton)

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2016 3:30 am 
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Once again - - -
The 356 Encyclopedia inside Brad Ripley's brain - - -

Priceless


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2016 6:00 pm 
356 Fan

Joined: Mon Jul 25, 2016 6:27 pm
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More questions.. Is there different types of ashtrays on pre a? The one in my car was missing some parts and i got a spare from a good friend, but see now that its not the same. The part i need is the same but the rest is smaller. Mabye its for something else, but have to ask before i take it appart.

Also wonder if someone have seen this ignitionlock. Was in my car, but not correct. Is it porsche?

Kent


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