Simplest and easiest way to change rear camber angle

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mikeschramm
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Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2009 1:04 pm
Location: central and south Mississippi

#46 Post by mikeschramm »

Thanks Greg, I just dont want to disrespect anyone.
The wheels I will be using are the stock matching 15X4.5 panted black and the tires are 185/60s... I was worried the tires would be too wide for the rim but they fit nice. I wanted the new 175/55s but they are too short.
As far as getting a good side shot....I wish my shop was bigger but these pics are the best I could do. After I get some metal work done and metal etch and epoxy primer on I will pull it out and get more pictures.
Ignore the nasty body filler left by the PO that I am grinding out :?
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S.J. Szabo

#47 Post by S.J. Szabo »

Mr. Prince:

My guess is that the effect you describe is the result of running toe-out on the rear wheels.

If this is actually the case, the results can be fairly surprising in spirited use.


Keep 'em flying.

Guest

Simplest and easiest way to change rear camber angle

#48 Post by Guest »

Well it looks like you have enough lug nuts! A 4.5 inch rim
is ok but a 185 design likes a 5.5 or 6 inch rim and by the
looks of the body work you can fit them. The 185/60s are
small by stock sizes but if it works for you then use them.
A closer diameter is a 195/65, only 3 mm smaller in
diameter. All kidding a side what is all the lug nuts about?

Alan

mikeschramm wrote:
Thanks Greg, I just dont want to disrespect anyone.
The wheels I will be using are the stock matching 15X4.5 panted black
and the tires are 185/60s... I was worried the tires would be too wide
for the rim but they fit nice. I wanted the new 175/55s but they are too
short.
As far as getting a good side shot....I wish my shop was bigger but
these pics are the best I could do. After I get some metal work done and
metal etch and epoxy primer on I will pull it out and get more pictures.
Ignore the nasty body filler left by the PO that I am grinding out Confused






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Simplest and easiest way to change rear camber angle

#49 Post by Guest »

Fredrick,
This the effect of the toe-in. toe-in will have the effect
of bring the car down if you roll forward. This is one
reason you must roll the car forward before taking any
chassis measurements. You also don't want to stop the car
with its breaks it will dive the front and if the shocks are
firm enough it will effect the height.

Alan

Frederic Prince wrote:
Hi all Wink
Can someone explain me why, if I go rear for several meters, the rear of
the car goes higher and the rear wheels are much like a V (more positif
camber).

How do you explain this ??
thanks
fred Wink


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mikeschramm
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Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2009 1:04 pm
Location: central and south Mississippi

Re: Simplest and easiest way to change rear camber angle

#50 Post by mikeschramm »

Alan Klingen wrote:All kidding a side what is all the lug nuts about?

Alan
HAHAHAHA :D there are only 5 lug nuts....in between each lug nug is a black hubcap clip. So 5 clips and 5 nuts. Those wheels are just junk wheels to roll the car around.

see, only 5
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Jay Darlington
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#51 Post by Jay Darlington »

mike, looks like a great project. i just ordered a set of drop spindles, have'nt got them yet. where yours a direct bolt on or did you have to make changes to your backing plate? there has been some discussion about this but never a firm reply. thanks jd "it's gota be in the weeds"
jay darlington

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mikeschramm
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Location: central and south Mississippi

#52 Post by mikeschramm »

Jay,
I will give you the firm reply. You WILL have to make modifications for the dropped spindels to work. Everything is a direct bolt on except for the fact that the backing plate hits the lower linkpin head by about 2-3mm. If you look at the picture I posted above you can actually see where I marked the lower linkpin with a red paint pin. That area hits the lower backing plate. I guess it depends on how many shims are on the outside of that lower linkpin as to how much clearence you will have. There seems to be two different ways you could handle this problem; 1. mod the backing plate or 2. mod the lower linkpin area. Mine only needed a few mm so I choose to clearence ...ie grind ...a few mils off of the lower part of the linkpin head. Very small amount of material and it bolted right up.

Jay Darlington
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#53 Post by Jay Darlington »

thanks mike thats what i wanted to know. big brown just drove in the drive way with mine
jay darlington

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Greg Banfill
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#54 Post by Greg Banfill »

Image


That's a great picture Mike.
I'm going to use it in my ads if you don't mind.

Also I've found a "stock" pinch nut that will work instead of jam nuts and a lock tab if you want to go with the more original looking hardware.

I'll send you a couple no charge if you want.

On that note here is a side shot of my '54.

Same spindles as Mike has (except I mad my set for disk brakes) the rear has been adjusted down, but I'm not sure how much after doing it so many times to get the height I wanted. I will make a conscious effort to keep track on 080 when I get to it next week.

Toe in is MASSIVE I can visually see it from the back. I'll make a set of longer spring plates with slotted adjustment holes to cure that on 080 as well. Right now this car is my R&D platform for as it obviously isn't going anywhere soon.

Image

4.5's in the front with 125's Deep 6's in the rear with 195/60/15's
I'll be running 145/65/15's on the front of 080 instead of the skinny 125's

Image
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54 Outlaw
VW / Porsche - Vintage Warehouse 
Parting 55 Coupe

mike robbins
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Simplest and easiest way to change rear camber angle

#55 Post by mike robbins »

All this talk of modified front suspensions makes me think that the most important alteration the owner of a '58 and earlier car can make is to change to the stronger spindles used with '59 and later cars. Take it from one who has experienced breakage of a spindle on a '58 Speedster. No steering and no brakes! One of the first things I did to the couple of '58 Coupes I owned was to change to the later spindles.

Mike Robbins


----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Banfill" <greg@vintagewarehouse.com>
To: 356talk@356registry.com
Sent: Friday, May 8, 2009 5:04:21 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: [356Talk] Simplest and easiest way to change rear camber angle

[Image: http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a323/ ... ion006.jpg ]


That's a great picture Mike.
I'm going to use it in my ads if you don't mind.

Also I've found a "stock" pinch nut that will work instead of jam nuts and a lock tab if you want to go with the more original looking hardware.

I'll send you a couple no charge if you want.

On that note here is a side shot of my '54.

Same spindles as Mike has (except I mad my set for disk brakes) the rear has been adjusted down, but I'm not sure how much after doing it so many times to get the height I wanted. I will make a conscious effort to keep track on 080 when I get to it next week.

Toe in is MASSIVE I can visually see it from the back. I'll make a set of longer spring plates with slotted adjustment holes to cure that on 080 as well. Right now this car is my R&D platform for as it obviously isn't going anywhere soon.

[Image: http://356registry.com/forum/album_mod/ ... 4af717.jpg ]

4.5's in the front with 125's Deep 6's in the rear with 195/60/15's
I'll be running 145/65/15's on the front of 080 instead of the skinny 125's

[Image: http://356registry.com/forum/album_mod/ ... df217d.jpg ]

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Greg Banfill
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Re: Simplest and easiest way to change rear camber angle

#56 Post by Greg Banfill »

mike robbins wrote:All this talk of modified front suspensions makes me think that the most important alteration the owner of a '58 and earlier car can make is to change to the stronger spindles used with '59 and later cars. Take it from one who has experienced breakage of a spindle on a '58 Speedster. No steering and no brakes! One of the first things I did to the couple of '58 Coupes I owned was to change to the later spindles.

Mike Robbins
A dropped spindles serves a dual purpose then. Not only do you get a nice drop, but you are definitely getting a bigger, stronger spindle as well.
Registry Member #30711
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David Baugh
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#57 Post by David Baugh »

Mike, my '58 A coupe sat a bit high in the rear, but worse, it looked bow-legged. I dropped it one spline notch on outside, but then it was too low. I ended up doing it the factory approved way, and got it where I wanted it. I had a deuce of a time getting the torsion bars out, though. I had to drive the right one into the left one with a sledge hammer and large drift to get it free. Then I stuck an old Ford pickup axle into the left side and drove the right one back out its side. It took a lot of firm whacks with the sledge to get them out! Sounds like everyone else's practically fell out, but that was my experience. I greased them up really good before reinstalling them.
When in doubt .... Gas it! 
'58 356A Coupe

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