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 Post subject: Oh no, I have rusty nuts
PostPosted: Sun Sep 18, 2016 3:36 am 
356 Fan

Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2016 10:46 am
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Location: Stratford upon Avon, UK
My nuts have been out in the rain and have suffered from a lack of regular oiling which is now becoming an embarrassing problem. :?

I have no hub caps but the wheel nuts are standard steel and after 2 months of the UK summer they are starting to show surface rust.

Can I just replace them with alloy versions that have a closed design to cover the stud? I am just concerned about messing with the wheel nuts from a safety perspective.

Also, the exposed parts of the rear hubs are also starting to rust are there any caps available for these?

Or maybe I should just buy a set of hubcaps...


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 18, 2016 7:04 am 
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Rusty nuts are better than no nuts. :wink: If you have steel wheels I would stay with steel nuts just because I have never seen alloy nuts used with steel wheels so I naturally fear that everybody knows something that I don't know. In other words, I don't know. I do use alloy nuts on my alloy wheels on my B coupe. As for rust on steel lug nuts and the axle nuts, I get them cad plated and they do not rust.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2016 2:16 pm 
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If you don't want to use the hub caps, I agree with cad-plating or for a different look, black chromate.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2016 2:46 pm 
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I found a set of chrome lug nuts on the internet some years ago so I could stop chasing the rust off the stock pieces. It also made the Fudge Rudge wheels look better.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2016 3:50 pm 
356 Fan

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Location: Stratford upon Avon, UK
Thanks for the tip on Cad plating.

I love the "fudge rudge", had a quick look online and couldn't find an obvious supplier - are they still available as an aftermarket? Otherwise I might look into getting some made for me.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2016 4:24 pm 
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They were originally a VW accessory. They show up from time to time on Ebay.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2016 4:46 pm 
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If nothing is too good for your tub, Titanium Open-ended Lug Nuts are the way to go.

Light weight, strong, and virtually un-stainable for no maintenance:

http://www.world-motorsports.com/titani ... ended.html

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2016 6:33 pm 
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$260 a set, I hope. :shock:

Aluminum is lighter.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2016 7:09 pm 
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But not as strong, and certainly not as shiny. 8)

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2016 7:24 pm 
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That's ok I guess but I use beryllium alloy for my lug nuts. 8)

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2016 7:37 pm 
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You are always one step ahead of the pack, Cliff

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 4:07 pm 
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That is $260 for the set. Cliff, are you joking or serious about beryllium?

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 5:10 pm 
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Hi Edwin, I was just kidding. Mine are aluminum which are very light. The ones on my 911S have all been trouble free since 1967 but I do worry about the quality of the aftermarket ones on the 356. I do keep the studs greased so that the nuts don't gaul. Somehow I have always been nervous about using aluminum for lug nuts and it's only been 50 years for the 911S so they may fail yet. I use steel nuts on the race car.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 10:30 pm 
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I'm using magnesium(?) 911 nuts, not sure if wide 5's take a different nut. Nice nuts, but as Cliff pointed out have not seen them used with steel wheels before. They are scary light but proven strong in racing applications.

'Edit' They are actually aluminum. I used them on an Audi hill climb car with no problems (thankfully!), and if Cliff and others use them on they're race cars they must be plenty strong.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2016 12:12 am 
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If you want to keep the stock nuts looking good, you can buy a Parkerizing kit from Brownells:
https://www.google.com/search?q=brownel ... g&tbm=shop

It is very easy to apply, if you can borrow a small stainless steel pot from your wife to heat the solution in ;<)

Then to duplicate the original factory wax coating, squirt some LPS-2 or CRC3-36 on the nuts and let the solvent evaporate.


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