The Official 356Talk Forum

Aluminum? The underlying solid seat bucket made of aluminum - I've seen pictures . . .

Oh. Duh.
I was hoping someone had a supplier for the Speedster seat repop.
Thinking of trying Vintage seats if they have a Speedster seat.

Take a look at: http://porsche356registry.org/356talk/1/22283.html

Gary
'64 C Coupe

Hmmm. Thanks Gary

Fiber Steel makes a wonderful fiberglass shell with great working/looking frames. I have them in two of my cars, and my Type II. Russ is great to do business with as well.

....................................Jim.

going back to John's Type 4 installation, can you tell us more about the pros and cons of it, John...is it quieter than the type 616, is the fuel mileage (miles per gallon) different....i guess it must have so much torque that a 4G gear wouldn't phase it (and would make the need for 5 speeds less so).....is the life span of a newly rebuilt stock type 4 going to be a lot better than a type 616 with Nickies?

I'll give my two cents here. With a late model case and heads the 356 motor with 1720s will make a comfortable 110+/- hp. I have a Type IV in my Type II truck, it is a 2.6 making a comfortable 160hp. By "Comfortable" I mean a nice streetable, undrstressed motor. Properly built motors of both the 356 & VW are very reliable.

.........................................Jim.

Is this the John Roberts in South Carolina?
Conrad

Mark,

I ran a stock 914 2.0L engine with dual Dellortos and altenator in my 59GT coupe when I put the 4Cam in storage.
I can recommend this as a relatively cheap "upgrade" except for the damned pushrod tubes leaking.
I'm currently running a Willhoit 2002cc twin plug engine which dyno's at 142 HP and 141 Lb feet torque however it will take north of $30K to build one. I have run it with 8 or 4 plugs and can't detect much if any difference by the seat of my pants calculations.
The 914 engine is heavier and runs out of juice at 5600 but pulls great getting there. Of course, you could add some mods. to upgrade that easily.
Lowering it won't do much except for looks although 1 1/2 - 2° negative camber at the rear is optimum for street use.
Plus, add a larger front sway bar and Vic's rear stabilizer.

Norm

"Al" probably means aluminum.
Conrad

I purchased John Roberts outlaw 23 years ago. Due to unfortunate accident (accelerator hung open..don’t ask), ended up with a bunch of bent/broken valves. I returned it to Chico for repair and ended up getting heads massaged as well. Total cost $2,000 including 2 way shipping from NC to CA and back. I look forward to getting it back running as it was wicked before. Still have the original engine and it runs fine (for 60 hp).
Conrad

Cliff has his point if your planning on satisfying the purist. But Outlaws have no rules! I don't think Cliff has driven a properly built Outlaw with 901/ 5speed gearbox and 900 rear suspension setup. I know I'll never go back. Polo's and Cliff's version of the Porsche engine are great if you can afford them but the type 4/914 is inexpensive by comparison. I have about 15k invested in my 2.7ltr. with sequential F.I.& crankfire.

Howdy Mike....Great progress and she is looking stunning. You're gonna' beat me done for sure.....

Car looks fantastic! I am new to the forum and just finishing my outlaw with a 270 hp 2.8 flat six twin plug and 901 trans. It only weighs 2083, 83 pounds more than stock. Outlaws are WAY more fun than keeping that stock 60-70 hp motor

Happy cruising