Calling Eagle-Eyed Engine Experts

[Rainer Cooney]

Missing the small rubber pug in the fan shroud filling the blank hole next to the coil and the flip lever for the oil filler should be painted black not plated.

[Vic Skirmants]

Cliff; no lifting hook until the C model; I think. Certainly not on a 1962.

[Bruce Smith]

Bruce, I knew you would spot that. The ball is in your court for that

Your carburetors are beautiful! Thanks!

Ed - I've got one for you. I'll be in touch.

[Joris Koning]

Spark plug wire boots are wrong

[Mike Wilson]

I'm assuming that the correct terminals are on the car's wiring for the generator and coil rather than the ones from Pep Boys.

[Joris Koning]

I am nog a pushrod guy but werent the large washers for the oil cannister and coil phosphated or am i mistakibg thema for the ones used on the floor boards?

[Albert Tiedemann]

Missing the small rubber pug in the fan shroud filling the blank hole next to the coil and the flip lever for the oil filler should be painted black not plated.

If the visible rubber plug is missing, then the rubber plug shielded by the coil is also likely missing.

All the clamping elements for the oil filter cover should be painted black---even the cotter pin!

[Craig Richter]

Poor Edwin. So many nits to pick. But you couldn't have thought it would be easy getting past this jury... one tough crowd.

Oh, and your coil is sitting a little high in its (very nice) bracket.

[C J Murray]

Oh hell, just throw it in the trash and start over!

[Jim Liberty]

This is a tough crowd. I will not show you guys my Gold Plated Harry Pellow motor.

[Albert Tiedemann]

I am nog a pushrod guy but werent the large washers for the oil cannister and coil phosphated or am i mistakibg thema for the ones used on the floor boards?

Yes, Joris, you are correct. Those large washers are finished as you stated and are important as they spread the point loading on the membrane member to avoid local over-stressing/crushing. More can be surmised from the photo showing these washers and some things have already been noted. However, this interface may have been an update/repair of the formerly solid line between the carburetors. and the "L" bracket added to provide the flexibility between the inlet mountings to assure easier alignment of the fasteners and minimize/eliminate the bending stress introduced due to misalignment. If this was an update, then the through fastener supporting the oil filter housing bracket may have been reused. The length of this fastener was increased to account for the thickness of the added bracket and may account for the absence of the wavy washer under the nut. Also, a top view of the "loop fitting' supporting the hose connection between the cut/manufactured lines would aid in determining if this looped bracket was original or aftermarket by examining the configuration of the slotting for the fastener. My recollection is that the fastener connecting the looped bracket at the supporting "L" bracket was a DIN 84 not the DIN 933 shown. I use the hex head fastener as it is easier to service with the engine in the car. Regardless, this bracket would have been plated a silver color for your model year and the though bolt "black finished as well as the nuts. The looped bracket would also have been positioned away from the {originally crimped furrel} not doing dual duty as shown. The latter indicates the repair/updated was not done like "Factory"--if that is important to you.

[Albert Tiedemann]

Bruce, I knew you would spot that. The ball is in your court for that

Your carburetors are beautiful! Thanks!

Yes, beautiful, but Bruce would not have left the left hand nut on the right carburetor [viewed in the direction of fwd travel] accelerator pump rod "loose"

[Albert Tiedemann]

Edwin:

We need a frontal view showing the coil bracket and oil filter housing support bracket "side by side" so to speak so that we can assess the over/under controversy.

[Albert Tiedemann]

This is a tough crowd. I will not show you guys my Gold Plated Harry Pellow motor.

I have a poster of that one!

Too much incorrect "gold" for me.

[Albert Tiedemann]

Vic answered my question, but the next time I have an engine on the stand, I'd make sure the ball end is the proper distance from the fan shroud:

20161021_161152.jpg

It's in the shop manual (and Ab beats on it regularly and properly: 50mm?). I've ignored it in the past and then spent hours getting the throttle linkage in shape.

And while you are checking this dimension{ 50 mm is correct} [cannot stress the importance as this may contribute significantly to the initial length of the down rods previously mentioned], replace the cotter pin in the shaft of the bracket. It is too long and if you are trying to bend the head like assemblies in the transmission, you are 90 degrees out