Hello,
Need to know if this is for an A,B,or C 356.
No key but handle is numbered K349R.
Thanks,
Steve
I.D. needed for 356 door handle.
- Steve Raucher
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Re: I.D. needed for 356 door handle.
T2 though to the end of 356 production.
Regards
Regards
Jim Breazeale
www.easypor.com
www.facebook.com/pages/European-Auto-Salvage-Yard-EASY/120458108029410
www.easypor.com
www.facebook.com/pages/European-Auto-Salvage-Yard-EASY/120458108029410
- Steve Raucher
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Re: I.D. needed for 356 door handle.
Key number K-349 for right hand door. T-6/C
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Re: I.D. needed for 356 door handle.
The K300-series key codes were a running change during the 1961 model year. so it may have come from a late T-5. In any case, it's interchangeable with any T-2 or later 356. The handle will also fit the left side, but the key slot will be 180 degrees off.
Jan Kolm
356 Registry #1066
1960 1600N Coupe
356 Registry #1066
1960 1600N Coupe
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Re: I.D. needed for 356 door handle.
Speaking of keys, I got a kick out of this..........
CW
CW
Charlie White
- Steve Raucher
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Re: I.D. needed for 356 door handle.
Thank for all the info people. Can a replacement key be made for this ?
Steve
Steve
- Rainer Schmidt
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Re: I.D. needed for 356 door handle.
Hi Steve,
I have the the drivers side handle with two keys, one original and the other aftermarket. If you are interested?
I have the the drivers side handle with two keys, one original and the other aftermarket. If you are interested?
Best regards
Rainer
Rainer
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Re: I.D. needed for 356 door handle.
The "K 3**" merely means it's a 300 series. The key can be cut "by code" by someone with the samples, such as Tony Euganeo. There were not that many codes, I forget the exact number, but not 349 or 356 individual codes. In this case, if Steve can 'borrow' a key from the same code (Rainer?) and buy a blank from one of the usual vendors, any key machine anywhere can make another copy.
Another alternative that is way too prevalent nowadays is to get a 300 series key, any key, disassemble the tumbler and file the blades while that key is pushed in and file them to be flat with the housing.....the 'cheater' way to avoid placing the correct blade in the correct slot for the original code as a 'pro' would be able to do.
The extreme way is to remove the little blades and tiny springs so ANY 300-series key can unlock the handle.
Another alternative that is way too prevalent nowadays is to get a 300 series key, any key, disassemble the tumbler and file the blades while that key is pushed in and file them to be flat with the housing.....the 'cheater' way to avoid placing the correct blade in the correct slot for the original code as a 'pro' would be able to do.
The extreme way is to remove the little blades and tiny springs so ANY 300-series key can unlock the handle.