9/57 Speedster 1600 Normal Engine Parts Colors

[Christopher Wettstein]

Hello, I am trying to find out some info on the colors of pieces on the engine. The engine is a 1600 Normal in a 9/57 Speedster. On previous articles it sounds like all the sheetmetal for a 1600 normal was gloss black. I have a fram filter housing, so i know the bottom half is orange but what pieces are silver cad plated or gold plated? What color should the valve covers be? Are all the carb linkage pieces silver cad plated? What about the fan in the fan housing? Also what percentage gloss on the black powder coated parts. Any info would be greatly appreciated, Thank You, Chris W.

[tyler carlson]

Chris-correct you are on the all-black sheet metal for your 'normal' engine. Your oil filter can lower in 'fram orange'. The engine's hardware-clamps-screws etc. were originally in cadium plate. There was nothing in 'gold' plate/gold colored plating more correctly stated. Cadium plating was cheap and pretty much the industry standard for decades. The very silver colored looking cadium has a tendency to be porous by nature and wears/obsorbs stains-rusts(patina!) easily or turns a soft grey color thru the years. The 'EPA' has determined that cadium plating creates to much toxic waste to continue its use in most states. The gold colored pieces you see on many restorations is now in zinc which gives a golden caste to the finish. This is the current available 'plating' allowed in many states(sadly)for our restorations. The cleaning process to 'prep' the metal sometimes exposes pitting-which the plating will not hide. This has become the acceptable norm for small part restoration though. Sometimes a rattle can of silver paint does a better job and looks more correct for some parts. Powder coating is relatively new(last 20 years or so i believe) and looks great and is very durable. 80% gloss is closest to the original black finish. The fan blade should be well cleaned-checkered for loose blades/damage-see an article here on 356registry site for fan-blade-nightmares(home page) and then zinced(best look for this 'unseen' piece). Original pieces have an almost oil-quenched/hardened look.

[Omar Almada]

http://porsche356registry.org/index.php ... ils&id=129

Dont know how to post just the engine picture, Chris this I belive to be a unmolested 1600
normal, hope it helps your proyect.

[Doug Naef]

I am dealing with the same issues with my motor out, apart and making "piles" for powder coating and plating. I beleive you want what is called "clear zinc". See information..... Zinc plating is one of the more versatile finishes. It can be used for corrosion resistance, aesthetics or as a paint base over the zinc. Zinc plating can be chromated different colors after plating to achieve different results for a product. Clear or "bluebright" is often used as an inexpensive imitation for chrome plating. Yellow can be used as is or as a paint base. Black chromate gives a very smooth shiny black finish for decorative purposes or as an excellent corrosion resistant finish. Olive Drab is usually used for military applications to match camouflage. Zinc plating can also be dyed after plating for lot identification.
In simple terms clear zinc is what you want and "zinc" will give you that yellowish color with rainbow colors in it. I am open for correction on any of the above. 80% on the gloss black powder coating is correct.

[tyler carlson]

How correct you are Doug in mentioning the 'clear zinc'. I didn't want to confuse the issue by mentioning it earlier but your plater would have mentioned it when you brought your load in. There are several finish 'colors' and results vary on an individual basis based on the 'finish-texture-prep-whatever you want to call it' before the final 'dip'. Generally the parts are acid etched to clean them/degrease them-to promote the zinc 'sticking' to the part. Sometimes the plater leaves them in the cleaning solution too long and your part will have a porous texture in the final product. This dip is not like chrome or paint(which has a noticeable thickness) and will not cover up any blems-it simply 'dyes' the metal another color. Original cadium plating was slightly more forgiving in that 'buffing and light pores'(like found in very fine bead-blasting/cleaning prep) were sometimes covered. We'll never see those days again.

[Christopher Wettstein]

Tyler, Omar, Doug, Thank you so much for the info!! (Cool Pic's Omar)That is what I needed to know! It is in line with what I was thinking to get done. I talked with the place ( Industrial Plating in San Carlos, Calif.) and the gentleman (Henry) told me that what I was describing was called "clear zinc". So off the parts went to get done, about a two week turn around. Not to bad? So a couple of other questions. 1) Are all 356 fans the same, is there a year with more blades for better cooling? 2) I want to replace the engine, trans, suspension bolts with new ones, any suggestion where to go, (Home Depot, OSH) and what grade bolts and finish should I be looking for? Thanks again, Chris W.

[tyler carlson]

Count yourself lucky that there is still a plater in the area. I lived in santa cruz years ago and would travel over the hill to get plating done-slowly but surely the EPA started closing those shops down! On the blade thing-earlier motors have less fins-later more-and as far as i know are the same as the vw's or at least interchangeable. Now is a good time to carefully check the fan blade for any damage. There is a great article here on the registry home page about fan blade nightmares. For the nut and bolt thing-i have always prefered to hit the vw wrecking yards and put a little time into stripping out a couple cars for the 'kamax' and 'verbus' marked bolts-adds the final and correct touch to your restoration-do it once so you don't have to do it later!

[Bruce Baker]

......<snip>......Original cadium plating was slightly more forgiving in that 'buffing and light pores'(like found in very fine bead-blasting/cleaning prep) were sometimes covered. We'll never see those days again.

Not true. If you want to get cad done now, you can. Less shops do it and the paperwork is difficult and the cost is much higher than 'back in the day,' but it is still done.

The guys I always used for cad still do it, but I must fill out paperwork that includes specifications I know nothing about. Forty years ago, I gave them old parts to be plated and they cleaned them and plated them and I gave them $20 "towards the coffee fund."

In later years, all I provided was clean parts 'for old cars' and they did the rest for $40.

Lately, the nicely prepped as if newly manufactured parts were over $120 for the same quantity. The friendly manager that walked me through it just retired, so as in all of life, 'things change.'

[tyler carlson]

Ahhhh.....its you again Bruce! I live in The People's Republic of California and i know of nowhere in this state i can get it done. I use to get it done many years ago but have't been able to get any cadium work done in years. The EPA is very strong in this state. You are very fortunate to have access to such work!
Furthermore, here in the People's Republic of California we are somewhat restricted to types of paint we can use and the design of the booth has to meet certain criteria I now understand! Chrome plating...where do i begin...with the price=that has gone up at least 5 times in just a few years to get the same part done......and the quality....the few shops that did all the best work for the classic cars, hotrods and bikes are now on par with the quality(lack of) that comes out of China. Its a sad situation for the restorer.

[Christopher Wettstein]

Hey Tyler, I have a buddy who does high end Hot Rods and he swears by a place in Sacramento to do his chrome work. He told me that they cost more than other chromers but, the quality is far superior. I have seen the work and it is high quality! The shop is: Sherm's Custom Plating, 2140 Acoma Street, Sacramento, California, 95815, (916) 646-0160. On a different subject, I have seen in three different restores guides conflicting color sceme for the oil canister. I have seen top and bottom in silver, top black bottom silver, top black bottom orange and top and bottom both green. Is there a way of telling on the housing by some type of markings which brand housing I have so I can paint it the correct color? Thanks, Chris

[Joris Schweitzer]

80% on the gloss black powder coating is correct.

Engine tin was spray painted not powder coated.

[Doug Naef]

Orange bottom, black top and cad plated handle on top is correct for Fram. The older filters have a larger in size handle/knob on top if you want to go deep on being correct. Tyler is spot on with the bolts too. Consider which ones will be actually seen even in a concours situation. I have seen several very nice restorations but they dont bother to have the correct kamax or verbus bolts on the fan housing that you see every time you open the compartment. Pay attention to the silver generator,black generator pulley with cad main bolt as well. I almost missed that obvious detail on mine. I actually found two local platers that do cadnium as well so it is not completely lost thank goodness. The texture you get from the different finishing processes may vary depending on how particular you are. If they sand blast your plated parts to clean them that is the finish you will be looking at. Paint removal with a bench wire wheel will give you a smooth correct look that you want on bolts, nuts and your dip stick for example. Sand blasted parts will look more "white" than silver and there is nothing that would have had that texture that was cad plated originally.