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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 12:50 pm 
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I was wondering if this might be an interesting thread to start: A string showing how to tell the difference between an original part and a reproduction part. There are so many once rare items that are now being reproduced (and done very well), that perhaps showing with pictures how to tell the difference has some value.

There have been many parts start into reproduction in the last few years that might fit well into this discussion. Glycerin bottles, fuse packs, key fobs, Klein screwdrivers, owners manuals, luggage straps, tire straps, tool kits, travel kits, Hella 128's, seat belts and Vasek Polak license plates to name a few. Lackstifts touch up paint coming. There are larger items too, like Luggage racks.

Anyway, it would be interesting to me to see the differences documented with photos so that at a later time it could be a reference. If put into this string of posts, it might be easy to find.

I already realize some people may not care. They might think "Hey, as long as the part works....." My response would be "Ok- I get that, but no need to criticize those who do care."
This is the Authenticity Corner right?
Just a thought.
Paul

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 1:04 pm 
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Paul

I was talking with friend who just had his T-5 roadster restored (by Lufteknic here in Richmond) and he mentioned his tool kit and how he was trying to replace the screwdrivers. I asked him about his glycerin bottle and had no idea what they were going for. After I told him, he went home and started digging out all his old stuff --he has owned the car since about 1961 or so and said he had just supplemented his retirement!

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 1:32 pm 
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Pat, an interesting put. Years ago, 356's were reasonably priced toys. Now, they have approached the lower end of special collector status. For enthusiasts such as myself, I can no longer "collect" cars as I use to. I have turned to collecting the memorabilia that goes with the cars. In the past few years, I have noticed a rapid increase in values of such knickknacks. I remember buying items such as Lackshifts for a dollar each. I can't imagine what they are going for since I have not seen an original listed in quite a while. It has made me wonder whether I should leave those items in the car. Thus, because of rapid increasing values and rarity, the thought of presenting reproduction items with my cars is appealing. It doesn't mean I'll sell my original items, but I now use them as reference parts to gauge the accuracy of reproduction parts.
I guess, I'll have to look at my stash of parts to see how I can enhanced my retirement.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 2:26 pm 
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Roy

I wonder if repro Speedsters and Spyders and VW power will go through a similar appreciation in value 20-30 years from now. It may already be happening with the Spyders.

I really appreciate the efforts that folks are making to provide reproduction parts and accessories for the 356s. I sport some of those (tail lights and bumper guards and hubcaps) on my car--still have the originals, but doubt if I will ever use them again.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 2:38 pm 
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Ok, I will try and kick this off with a picture of a headlight glass. Original ones had the inscriptions raised on the OUTSIDE. Current reproduction ones have the inscriptions on the inside and the font is somewhat different.
In this thread I hope we can try to stay away from discussion of value of parts and stick with the documenting differences between original vs repro.


Attachments:
lense 002 (Large).jpg
lense 002 (Large).jpg [ 100.17 KiB | Viewed 7007 times ]

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Last edited by Paul Hatfield on Thu Jan 06, 2011 2:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 2:40 pm 
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Hi Paul,

I know you are aware of these articles, but others may not be. The following articles are an attempt to do just what you are asking for: understand how to identify a reproduction part from an "original" part. They cover some of the items you listed in your post, and even some you did not (radio plates, horn buttons :-)

356A Driver's Manuals, "Vintage" and Reprints
http://porsche356registry.org/resources ... rints.html

356B T6 Driver's Manual Identification, Real & Repro
http://porsche356registry.org/resources ... repro.html

Horn Button Identification
http://porsche356registry.org/resources ... ation.html

Original Key Fobs
http://porsche356registry.org/resources ... -fobs.html

Radio Plates – Real or Repro?
http://porsche356registry.org/resources ... repro.html

And of course there is the thorny issue of what does "original" and "reproduction" actually mean?
http://porsche356registry.org/resources ... m-nib.html

Best regards,

Barry

Paul Hatfield wrote:
I was wondering if this might be an interesting thread to start: A string showing how to tell the difference between an original part and a reproduction part. There are so many once rare items that are now being reproduced (and done very well), that perhaps showing with pictures how to tell the difference has some value.

There have been many parts start into reproduction in the last few years that might fit well into this discussion. Glycerin bottles, fuse packs, key fobs, Klein screwdrivers, owners manuals, luggage straps, tire straps, tool kits, travel kits, Hella 128's, seat belts and Vasek Polak license plates to name a few. Lackstifts touch up paint coming. There are larger items too, like Luggage racks.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 2:51 pm 
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Thanks Barry! Good stuff. Of course, there is more, even on those subjects. Example 356 B/C horn buttons and other versions of the Owners manuals.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 3:33 pm 
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Paul, there's always more to document. In the near future I expect detailed articles from you on those topics. ;-)

Best regards,

Barry
Paul Hatfield wrote:
Of course, there is more, even on those subjects. Example 356 B/C horn buttons and other versions of the Owners manuals.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 3:37 pm 
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And more topics could be added here too:
headrests
side view mirrors
wood steering wheels
All of the above in reproduction today and telling the differences can be a challenge. Hope some of the differences are posted here.
Paul

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 4:39 pm 
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Paul Hatfield wrote:
And more topics could be added here too:
headrests
side view mirrors
wood steering wheels
All of the above in reproduction today and telling the differences can be a challenge. Hope some of the differences are posted here.
Paul


Paul, original Carrera 2 Wood Wheels are easy to distinguish from reproductions. There are physical differences between original and reproduction that can not be changed. The biggest being the chamfer on the backside of the hub. On eBay, a real C2 wheel recently sold for $2395.00. That is cheap when you consider the total cost or converting a plastic wheel into a wood wheel.

However, if it is appearance you are after, the current reproductions are excellent.

Since I can not post pictures on the forum, if you are interested, email me.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 7:11 pm 
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I think I can tackle the reproduction glycerin bottles and tags as well as the reproduction Lackstifts. :wink:

1) Glycerin Bottles / Caps / Tags

Bottles: The original bottles have no makers mark on them at all. My reproductions have the OBP lettering on the bottom as shown.

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Caps: The original caps (I’ve only ever looked on the inside of a black one) have the KISICO logo on the inside of the cap under the white seal as shown below. Mine have the OBP logo.

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Tags: All tags have print date and print run info or no info at all. My tags have the print date of 6.10 and print run of .1M. That’s June 2010 and 100 tags. If I do another run the date on my tags will reflect that.

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2) Lackstifts / Boxes

Lackstift: Original Lackstifts have bilingual usage instructions silk screened onto the metal tube as shown below. My Lackstift reproductions will not have that information on the 'back' of the bottle although it will be printed on paper and included in the box.

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Boxes: My reproduction boxes will have the OBP logo hidden at the ends of the box flaps. The original boxes are blank in those locations.

Attachment:
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6.JPG [ 35.36 KiB | Viewed 6926 times ]

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 7:16 pm 
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Carl-
Very informative and helpful post.
Many thanks for this!
Paul

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 7:35 pm 
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My buddy says his original glycerin bottle has a maroon cap. See below

WOW-I think I can retired on those prices.
Lets see:
$1000 and $2551 for Key Fobs.
I have my original gray one.
$835 for the B Owners manual kit with red vinyl cover and Roadster Top Booklet ($317) plus Factory Service Book with Coupons ($175) .
I have all of them!
$282 for the Glycerin bottle with the black cap (mine has a maroon cap-not red).

I have a 904 coin that Peter Gregg sent me on a piece of cardboard that he signed plus I used to have the 356B Christophorus Magazine some where.
Guess I'd better start rounding these things up.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 7:43 pm 
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On the glycerin bottle, you might also notice a difference in the color of the bottle. My original one is shown below. It is no longer the pristine color of the new ones. This may be common.


Attachments:
Glycerin bottle (Large).jpg
Glycerin bottle (Large).jpg [ 39.34 KiB | Viewed 6914 times ]

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 7:53 pm 
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Carl-
Can you help us with the fuse package differences? Below is a shot of my original ones in my travel kit. I believe there were both Pudenz and Autosicherungen reproductions?


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travel kit 003 (Large).jpg
travel kit 003 (Large).jpg [ 139.5 KiB | Viewed 6910 times ]

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