I'm at a point in my project where I'm installing the trim pieces that cover the edge of the carpet and hold the seals at the door threshold. I ordered the parts from Stoddard ages ago. Doing a quick test-fit tonight, both the aluminum trim strips (for the carpet and the large sill rubber seal) appear that they are too long as supplied.
Can someone provide measurements and/or a picture of this area on an original C car, or one where if these parts have been replaced during restoration it was done properly? I wish I'd saved my originals at this point.
Thanks,
Length/position of trim pieces for the door threshold
- Preston Brown
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Length/position of trim pieces for the door threshold
Preston Brown
1965 356C - http://www.brown-house.net/356project
1987 911 Carrera
2009 911 Carrera S
1965 356C - http://www.brown-house.net/356project
1987 911 Carrera
2009 911 Carrera S
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- 356 Fan
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Re: Length/position of trim pieces for the door threshold
Both the vertical strip and the horizontal strip are exactly as long as needed to be.
Yes, no one should throw ANYTHING away until a project is finished, and now you know why.....
Seriously, that extra length allows custom fitting in the door openings. There is no exact measurement guaranteed to be right for your particular 356.
The horizontal strip is fit 'into' the upholstery at each end, often (not always) requiring a slight angle cut at one or both ends. A case of 'if it looks good, it is.'
The smaller vertical piece allows the rearward end to be filed or sanded to a curve to look 'finished' in and mimicking the bottom curve of the 'step' of the lower jamb/rocker corner and if a mistake is made, there is enough to try again. Only when that is acceptable should the front end be cut to match the end of the threshold where the ribbed rubber mat has been glued.
Also, make the outer edge of that mat not be a thick rib. The curved-over top of that aluminum strip should be over the thin rubber and the first rib should be parallel and next in from the aluminum.
I usually offer references to 'the Books' (my pet peeve) but pictures in the workshop manuals of this detail are scarce and vague........ but there are a few...maybe worth only 500 to 750 words, not 1000.
So, here is a picture of a 356 with an older 'restoration' by persons unknown not showing perfect technique or results, but the fastest/easiest shot I could take: A word of caution: drilling holes for the new (torsionally weak) screws go through several layers of sheetmetal and require the holes be just right to not be too small (to catch and break the screw if forced) or too big (to strip and not tighten). Test drilling in comparable metal is better than fighting a broken screw on the car.
I also put some masking tape up a...well, 'bit' on the drill bit to act as a soft stop to protect the aluminum when the drill goes through. Hope this helps.
Yes, no one should throw ANYTHING away until a project is finished, and now you know why.....
Seriously, that extra length allows custom fitting in the door openings. There is no exact measurement guaranteed to be right for your particular 356.
The horizontal strip is fit 'into' the upholstery at each end, often (not always) requiring a slight angle cut at one or both ends. A case of 'if it looks good, it is.'
The smaller vertical piece allows the rearward end to be filed or sanded to a curve to look 'finished' in and mimicking the bottom curve of the 'step' of the lower jamb/rocker corner and if a mistake is made, there is enough to try again. Only when that is acceptable should the front end be cut to match the end of the threshold where the ribbed rubber mat has been glued.
Also, make the outer edge of that mat not be a thick rib. The curved-over top of that aluminum strip should be over the thin rubber and the first rib should be parallel and next in from the aluminum.
I usually offer references to 'the Books' (my pet peeve) but pictures in the workshop manuals of this detail are scarce and vague........ but there are a few...maybe worth only 500 to 750 words, not 1000.
So, here is a picture of a 356 with an older 'restoration' by persons unknown not showing perfect technique or results, but the fastest/easiest shot I could take: A word of caution: drilling holes for the new (torsionally weak) screws go through several layers of sheetmetal and require the holes be just right to not be too small (to catch and break the screw if forced) or too big (to strip and not tighten). Test drilling in comparable metal is better than fighting a broken screw on the car.
I also put some masking tape up a...well, 'bit' on the drill bit to act as a soft stop to protect the aluminum when the drill goes through. Hope this helps.
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- 356 Fan
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Re: Length/position of trim pieces for the door threshold
BTW, those horizontal trim pieces are just that. They do not hold the rubber seal. Please see:Preston Brown wrote:I'm at a point in my project where I'm installing the trim pieces that cover the edge of the carpet and hold the seals at the door threshold.
Thanks,
http://www.stoddard.com/shop/shopdispla ... hold+Parts
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- 356 Fan
- Posts: 2024
- Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2008 9:34 am
- Location: Tampa area, FL
Re: Length/position of trim pieces for the door threshold
The usual way to get the rear end of the ribbed mat to fit closely is to make a cardboard template of the shape and trace that on the mat. The underside of that end is then beveled so it can stay flat toward the edge. Hope this helps.
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Re: Length/position of trim pieces for the door threshold
After trimming the horizontal piece that holds the carpet down please de-burr and buff the underside on the ends to keep from cutting up your new vinyl or leather. I bow the part up in the middle when installing so it ends up tight and doesn't scuff the trim material when installed. It's also a big help when installing the vertical piece if the door is off as in Bruce's photos. Those front screws are a bitch with the door on.