This has probably been covered before, but I'm new to the Forum so please forgive.
I have a new engine compartment insulation kit to put into my '64 C Coupe and am wondering about any lessons learned/tricks from those who have gone before. Like, what of adhesive do I use to stick it to the walls, if any? Screws used along the top? Not much left of my original to go by.
It all depends on which made of insulation you are fitting. I fitted the Stoddard stuff in my car, I used a hot air gun to mould it into shape, stuck it down with heavy duty spray adhesive and finished it off with some satin black paint with a roller. If you have the tar paper stuff I think it's more a case of softening it with the heat gun and slapping it on, but I can't speak from experience.
As for an adhesive, use Liquid Nails. It is available in a tube that you apply with a caulking gun. Start with the firewall, then side panels, the back panel and finally the bottom pieces. Dry fit all pieces prior to gluing to check the fit. Hold each piece in place to be certain it is sticking before going on to the next piece. The back panel piece, the one behind the license plate, folds over along the top edge and is held down by Philips head screws with washers. The usual good 356 vendors can supply the screw kit.
After the sound deadening is dry, about 24 hours, it may be painted black with a brush.
Thanks to both. I like Eric's suggestion of using Liquid Nails -- gotta be less messy than spray-on adhesives. Also thanks for the panel A before panel B advice.
Both posts mention painting it black after install. What I bought is pretty thick and already black, but maybe not black enough?
Think of painting the insulation as a "topcoat" for sealing the surface and making it last longer, look better and be more cleanable. Use urethane and make it fuelproof and brakefluid resistant. Semi-flat, brush on, minimal masking......"cheap paint" (off-brand) works just fine.
As for the Liquid Nails, propping and holding should be done where a good set is needed and gravity is against you. Beware that tape can lift the surface of some materials in some kits and use gloves when you press them all around, as there should be enough adhesive used to squish out in some edges, so be ready for that.
Charlie, who made the insulation kit? If it is Stoddards, then the below most likely covers it. If it is from Bill at the Parts Shop in Huntington Beach, then it is like the original with a thick tar backing that you melt to install. Can provide "lessons learned" if it has the tar backing.
R/Ben
65 SC S/R coupe
63 Vespa 150
Ben Wainscott
65 SC S/R coupe
89 911 Carrera
63 Vespa 150
80 Vespa P200e
Using Heavy Duty adhesives like Liquid Nails on soft and semi-soft materials is like using a sledgehammer for a flyswatter...... Such overkill will always produce unwanted collateral damage that you or someone else will curse about in the future.
As we muckle about with our cars, we often neglect the future view; yeah, Liquid Nails will hold that insulation or carpet or whathaveyou tight, but it will also likely destroy any coatings it comes in contact with and when you or someone else needs to effect some repair/replacement/removal for whatever reason, you will destroy every surface and material involved and have an ugly residue to deal with.
The key, it seems to me, is to use just enough force to do the job, which in some cases, is no force at all. As a general rule, when adhesives are appropriate, rubber-based cements (3-M weatherstrip seal for example) are a good starting point. When applied correctly, they hold well, are not destructive to most coatings, and overage is easily removable with WD-40.
I guess the point here that we need to be more conscious of the fact that one of the hallmarks of fine art and professional mechanics is finesse.
I have to say that the spray on adhesive will give you an even, instant stick. As the material is quite stiff even when heated to shape, you want to get it all stuck down with no bubbles or lifting. I wouldn't think you could achieve that with no nails.
I used Wurth spray on adhesive on my 63 S90 engine insulation (Stoddard’s kit) and it worked very well. It is now one year later and nothing has lifted yet.
I have to say that the spray on adhesive will give you an even, instant stick. As the material is quite stiff even when heated to shape, you want to get it all stuck down with no bubbles or lifting. I wouldn't think you could achieve that with no nails.
The hallmark of Liquid Nails is that it allows some movement in the location of insulation pieces to allow finesse in proper placement yet sets up quickly enough. It also has 'body' to fill uneven spaces and the best part is it's CHEAP.
How often can you comment that something that works best for a 356 task is also the cheapest solution?
Now, off to partake of a few hours of unconsiousness,
Sometimes it is best if you don't see the process us "pro"
wrenches use, judge by the results.
Alan
Bruce Baker wrote:
*S.J. Szabo wrote:*
I guess the point here that we need to be more conscious of the fact
that one of the hallmarks of fine art and professional mechanics is
finesse.
Ironically, one of the best metalmen EVER was showing me a trick about
working a hammerweld on a 356 door many years ago and he used some words
that have stuck with me for a long time..."First....ya try to romance
it.....THEN, if that doesn't work.....ya beat the f*#@ out of it!"
Art, professional mechanics....that says it all.
The hallmark of Liquid Nails is that it allows some movement in the
location of insulation pieces to allow finesse in proper placement yet
sets up quickly enough. It also has 'body' to fill uneven spaces and the
best part is it's CHEAP.
How often can you comment that something that works best for a 356 task
is also the cheapest solution?
Now, off to partake of a few hours of unconsiousness,
