Tenax Question about washer under tapping screw

Message

John Willhoit · #2 Post by **John Willhoit** » Sun Apr 27, 2008 10:19 pm

They started out clear but quickly turned yellow. Typically, they weren't used until the Bs but are a good idea since they seal the hole.

Henry Garazo · #3 Post by **Henry Garazo** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 2:50 pm

I have a couple Tenax "posts" on the rear deck that are very loose. It looks like I have to pull the carpet down on the back wall to access this area. One of the male "posts" on the rear deck actually pulls out. It looks like a self tapping screw.

It this the fastener/washer that is supposed to be there, or does the post just screw into the sheet metal? Is there a better way to keep them tight?

Thanks,

Albert Tiedemann · #4 Post by **Albert Tiedemann** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 4:26 pm

If the fastener is loose, the hole in the sheet metal is too big--either in error or worn.

Sometimes the hole can be reclaimed with a speed nut that is designed to clip over a flange. This design has some flex and will flatten if used in a "normal" nut mode. The flattening will cause a fairly high interface pressure which will not only provide a resistance to turning when the fastener is tightened [edges dig into undercoat/metal], but also a locking effect due to the interface pressure created. This technique can be used at any location where a self-tapping screw is used. Just find the correct size speed nut. The only drawback is that it requires access to the back side of the fastener. In this case a custom fabricated "tenex" type fastener with a larger screw for the eggy hole is a viable solution. It would be less costly and the aggravation avoided than the option of filling the worn hole, repainting and redrilling.

If the Police are really looking, they would also detect diferences in fastener spacing if you decided to shift the hole a bit.

Robert Raucher · #5 Post by **Robert Raucher** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 4:34 pm

Hello

one has to only cut 1/8 inch by 1/4 piece of tin (thin)..bend in half
(longer length)..lay in larger then normal hole (2 per hole) ..and let tenax
rethread the new tin in the hole. Good luck...Robert T. Raucher Chico,
California USA.

======================
----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Tiedemann" <afterwerke@comcast.net>
To: <356talk@356registry.com>
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 1:26 PM
Subject: [356Talk] Re: Tenax Question about washer under tapping screw

If the fastener is loose, the hole in the sheet metal is too big--either
in error or worn.

Sometimes the hole can be reclaimed with a speed nut that is designed to
clip over a flange. This design has some flex and will flatten if used
in a "normal" nut mode. The flattening will cause a fairly high interface
pressure which will not only provide a resistance to turning when the
fastener is tightened [edges dig into undercoat/metal], but also a locking
effect due to the interface pressure created. This technique can be used
at any location where a self-tapping screw is used. Just find the correct
size speed nut. The only drawback is that it requires access to the back
side of the fastener. In this case a custom fabricated "tenex" type
fastener with a larger screw for the eggy hole is a viable solution. It
would be less costly and the aggravation avoided than the option of
filling the worn hole, repainting and drilling......>

Post generated using Mail2Forum via email.

Norm Miller · #6 Post by **Norm Miller** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 5:05 pm

Henry,

Don't pull down the carpet as there is no access. These are blind holes.
You might try to build up the thickness of the threaded post just enough to get some grip in the hole or insert a piece of wire in the hole and see if that will be enough to alow it to tighten.

Norm

Post generated using Mail2Forum via email.

Jeffrey Fellman · #7 Post by **Jeffrey Fellman** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 6:35 pm

If you are a real cheater you pull the carpet down carefully, use a very
sharp hole saw [ I like Rota broach's] and make a small access hole in the
bulkhead and use a hexazonal speed nut on the backside. We would test
tighten the Tenax studs when the shell was in primer and fix iffy holes this
way with the customers consent. After the carpet is in place not even a
concours judge who hates you could make a deduction. They then like a rock
for life.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Raucher" <rraucher@maxinet.com>
To: <356talk@356registry.com>
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 1:41 PM
Subject: [356Talk] Re: Tenax Question about washer under tapping screw

Hello

one has to only cut 1/8 inch by 1/4 piece of tin (thin)..bend in half
(longer length)..lay in larger then normal hole (2 per hole) ..and let
tenax
rethread the new tin in the hole. Good luck...Robert T. Raucher Chico,
California USA.

======================
----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Tiedemann" <afterwerke@comcast.net>
To: <356talk@356registry.com>
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 1:26 PM
Subject: [356Talk] Re: Tenax Question about washer under tapping screw

If the fastener is loose, the hole in the sheet metal is too big--either
in error or worn.

Sometimes the hole can be reclaimed with a speed nut that is designed to
clip over a flange. This design has some flex and will flatten if used
in a "normal" nut mode. The flattening will cause a fairly high
interface
pressure which will not only provide a resistance to turning when the
fastener is tightened [edges dig into undercoat/metal], but also a
locking
effect due to the interface pressure created. This technique can be used
at any location where a self-tapping screw is used. Just find the
correct
size speed nut. The only drawback is that it requires access to the back
side of the fastener. In this case a custom fabricated "tenex" type
fastener with a larger screw for the eggy hole is a viable solution. It
would be less costly and the aggravation avoided than the option of
filling the worn hole, repainting and drilling......>

Post generated using Mail2Forum via email.

Albert Tiedemann · #8 Post by **Albert Tiedemann** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 9:53 pm

I am having a little difficulty with the proportions of the fix" suggested by Robert [2 "thin" {unspecified thickness}pieces bent to form near flatened? U approximating 1/8" square. How would you hold them to get the thread started?

Can someone measure the diameter of the threaded portion of the Tenex fastener and post please.

If those proportions work, it must be a real baggy hole.

Has anyone used his method?

Norm Miller · #9 Post by **Norm Miller** » Tue Apr 29, 2008 2:17 am

Al
this is how I perceive the fix.

norm

Post generated using Mail2Forum via email.

Well, it was an invalid upload, wrong type of file!

anyway just fold the 1/8 X 1/4 strips and set them in the hole and screw in the stud.
As I indicated before mechanics wire will work too.

Norm

Steve Proctor · #10 Post by **Steve Proctor** » Tue Apr 29, 2008 11:44 pm

Give Autos International a call. They have inserts that are pretty flush with the body that you screw the tenax into - uh, into which you screw the tenax fasteners, that is. Have 2-3 on the Speedster tonneau holes...

STP

Henry Garazo · #11 Post by **Henry Garazo** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 6:29 am

Thanks for all the detailed replies. I have a couple loose ones and one that pulls out. It would have really been bad to pull down the carptet in the hopes of "doing it right" only to find no access

The one that pulls out has a slightly egged-out hole. I may try the mechanics wire or tin. I will also call Autos Int.

I like the speednut idea, but how are these normally accessed in a resto short of cutting/rewelding a panel?

Thanks!

The Official 356Talk Forum