Cabrio Top Issues

[Matt Anderson]

So I've been trying to figure out a few things with the top on the 63. When I try and take the top down, it doesn't want to go down to a level that the boot will fit over it. I obviously don't want to force it, but I'm not sure if I'm missing something.

Any ideas? It may have something to do with the top being reupholstered back in the late 70's. I'll be able to post pictures a little later today. My thought is that there is too much material for the top to fold down correctly. Any help is appreciated.

[Jim Alton]

My top's similar: I can only snap the boot over it by leaning on the top. I risk rupturing my spleen when I lean that hard and the boot tears around some of the Tenax fasteners.

I got the folks from Autos International to look at mine and they think it's "within tolerance." Maybe the cure is just to get a new boot fitted.

[Tom Coughlin]

I've had a Cab for 29 years and it seems to get a little more cranky (like wife, cat etc) with years. How about some wdforty and then some white grease on those moving joints?

If it works let me know and I'll use it on mine which has never been off the road and therefore has possibly had more up and down of the top than some other cars.

[Alan Hall]

The top on my '53 requires that you check you are not pinching top material between the parts of the mechanism to make sure it folds enough to get the boot on, you might check this.
Alan

[Bert Leemburg]

Another note, in case you've forgotten... It is also very important to unzip the rear window, before folding the top, put a flat towel (like a tea-towel) over the window, so it does not get scratched up. It may help a little. My top on the 58 CAB does not fold evenly, I know whey, as the alluminum frame had to be welded. It broke in shipping. So I too have to lean on the top to fold it!

These were hints from a 356 Porsche bodyshop foreman!

Air-cooled Regards,

Bert Leemburg

[Tom Coughlin]

Bert mentions unziping the rear window which is absolutely necessary. Regarding the tea towel, I've never used one but I have found that keeping the plastic clean is very important to minimize scratching. I put a new top on my cab in 1980 and replaced it in the early 2000's. The plastic was better than the top fabric!

The reason is that before lowering, I always wipe the plastic window with a wet paper towel and pat it dry. Never "wipe" it dry, be sure to "pat" and the plastic will not scratch. It is amazing how abrasive the (almost) invisible dust is that collects on the plastic window.
Use a wet clean white paper towel to clean it and you'll see almost invisible dirt (like sandpaper).
Again, PAT dry, don't rub! KTF ,TLC

[Richard Ruff]

I used a product called "Plexus" for years on my Boxster plastic window. It is one of the few"wonder products" that actually performs. Get it at a motorcycle shop.

[Jim Alton]

Didn't cabriolets before the T-6 come with soft tops without zippered rear windows? I realize that tops from T-2 through T-6 were otherwise identical and many owners got zipered rear windows when they needed new tops.

Still, many of us can't unzip our rear windows.

[Matt Anderson]

The top on my car was redone in the late 70's early 80's. It does have a zipper top. I tried it this last weekend and it seems to still not want to go. I think it's because there may be too much material.

[Bert Leemburg]

Hi Everyone,

I want to add what is written in the Porsche 356 Workshop ManuaL:

"Lowering Top

1. Unlock both top locks on front bow
2. Slightly lift top and fold back. See that the top cover is folded uniformly between the bows."

Just to be sure we follow the factory's procedure correctly.

Good Luck,

Bert Leemburg