Axle Boot Clamps, need installation tips

[Albert Tiedemann]

These clamps are made by Oetiker. A special tool is required.

[Albert Tiedemann]

The special tool is more like a nipper or nail puller. I am not in Maryland at present or I would take a picture and send it.

Any hose clamp from Ace or the like will have perforations in the band. It will also be very easy to overtighten the "worm syle" clamp. When the latter is done the rubber of the boot will extrude out the perferations.

I trust that you are using the "good" solid boot. You are doing a lot on the restoration and to compromise on this feature is pointless.

There is nothing wrong with the factory clamp as originally issued and I would recommend using it.

[Wil Mittelbach]

Brian & Al -
Another input - - -
The original full axle boot clamps on my unrestored `65C cab are spiral worm type clamps - much more effective than split boot replacement notched clamps, or the vintage roll-up type clamp bands. The German cad plated bands are somewhat narrower than their US worm band equivalent, and fit within the band grooves of the boot.
Perhaps one can use US ss worm type clamps subsequent to trimming the bands to the width of the split boot notched replacement clamps to fit within the boot recess, while ultimately taking care not to overtighten.
All the best,
-Wil


----- Original Message ----
From: Albert Tiedemann <afterwerke@comcast.net>
To: 356talk@356registry.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 8:43:21 PM
Subject: [356Talk] Re: Axle Boot Clamps, need installation tips

The special tool is more like a nipper or nail puller. I am not in Maryland at present or I would take a picture and send it.

Any hose clamp from Ace or the like will have perforations in the band. It will also be very easy to overtighten the "worm syle" clamp. When the latter is done the rubber of the boot will extrude out the perferations.

I trust that you are using the "good" solid boot. You are doing a lot on the restorations and to compromise on this feature is pointless.

There is nothing wrong with the factory clamp as originally issued and I would recommend using it.

------------------------
Albert Tiedemann, C356C
"The Hermit", Reg #4998












Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.

Post generated using Mail2Forum via email.

[Albert Tiedemann]

The tool shown will work as it will apply the force to pinch the ear of the clamp in a preferred[design] orientation. The tool shown is best described as a Harbor Freight version of the real Oetiker tool. But, if not used in a lifetime of work, a value engineered purchase.

The German clamps that Will mentions do not have perferations as do their American counterparts. The gear of the "worm gear" set is formed into the metal band and we see this ype of clamp used in many applications on the early 911s. I have not measured the width but Will stipulates that they work well. The original band type width is 9 mm and it has the slight advantage as the band fully encapsulates the component to be clamped and there are no spaces for the elastomer--in this case-- to bulge under the clamping load. Do to the high mechanical advantage provided by the worm type clamp, it is easy to overtighten as has been previously mentioned. They are also easier to install then the Oetiker or the vintage clamp. Some Oetiker designs have an insert or band built into the clamp to preclude local bulging.

Regarding trimming of the American clamp. These ae usually stainless steel and very difficult-nay near impossible--to trim with the force availble with hand snips--even the very good, bull nose, Weiss aviation style. If you do not believe it, try it. Your ability to hand cut such a small amount off will be equally challenged.

The pressure across the interface to be sealed is minimal if any at all. The original, vintage clamp--although more difficult to installl until you get the knack of it-- is more than satisfactory.