Heater Control - C Coupe question

[Jon Finkelstein]

Hello all.

Ok, here's a stupid question that my C Coupe manual doesn't answer properly. The heater control in front of the gear shift lever. Which way produces more heat and which way is less? The manual just tells you what the lever does, not which way produces more heat. So, do you push it forward for more? Or back (towards the stick)? And now that it's warm here in Toronto, the heat was really pumping so I closed the vents. But to be honest, I did a little forward/back test.... and while the heat works, I can't really tell the difference between the two directions.

I know, stupid..... C owners out there care to chime in? About the heater control, not my stupidity


Thanks

Jon

[Mike Smith]

Forward = Off

Back = On

If you still have Heat with the lever forward the Rods and Cables to Flapper Boxes and Body Valves at the rear of the car - Need adjusting

[Pete Archibald]

Jon –

Up/back is on; forward/down is off.

Pete

From: Jon Finkelstein [mailto:jonfinkelstein@griplimited.com]
Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 7:10 PM
To: 356talk@356registry.com
Subject: [356Talk] Heater Control - C Coupe question



Hello all.

Ok, here's a stupid question that my C Coupe manual doesn't answer properly. The heater control in front of the gear shift lever. Which way produces more heat and which way is less? The manual just tells you what the lever does, not which way produces more heat. So, do you push it forward for more? Or back (towards the stick)? And now that it's warm here in Toronto, the heat was really pumping so I closed the vents. But to be honest, I did a little forward/back test.... and while the heat works, I can't really tell the difference between the two directions.

I know, stupid..... C owners out there care to chime in? About the heater control, not my stupidity


Thanks

Jon




Jon Finkelstein
64 SC Coupe
Reg # 18992

Post generated using Mail2Forum via email.

[John Lewenauer]

And now that it's warm here in Toronto, the heat was really pumping so I closed the vents.

Jon

As was said, forward off, back on. Closing the vents does not close off the heat...it diverts it to your windshield defroster vents.

Your flappers and heater valve in back need adjustment. Not hard, but there is a methodology. When properly adjusted, they work beautifully.





Open/Close heater valve #2
Rear of flapper box #7

With no tension on the valve it springs to the CLOSED position (No heat). The flapper box under it's own spring tension will be OPEN (No heat). Pulling on the cable via the lever, with them properly adjusted and the rods properly set between the flapper and valve, will Open the valve and Close the flappers and provide heat.

John

[Albert Tiedemann]

You might check to see if the heater rods are pretzel shaped or having too many bends. In a pair of correctly formed rods, one rod has one bend and the other rod has two bends. There is nothing magical about the need for the differnce and the why is explained by the offset of the cylinders, all other interfaces being symetric. Correctly formed rods promote easy actuation of the relevant pivots. Another point to check is to verify that you have the correct pivots installed and at the correct locations. There are three each of two different pivots.

I offer heater control rods that are hand crafted from 4mm, ss 316L rod using NOS rods as masters. They are $25 delivered to the 48--possibly more to Toronto. These rods are for the cars with US heater systems.

I do not offer pivots or pieces thereof.

Reply off line if interested, please

[John Lewenauer]

In a pair of correctly formed rods, one rod has one bend and the other rod has two bends.

I see two bends in both rods in the factory picture. Horizontal from the flapper box, vertical to the valve.

[Albert Tiedemann]

A more careful observation will reveal that the heater is not adjusted properly as the gap between the hoop and the pivot point exceeds the cylinder offset and the "bend" that you see is actually a bow in the rod due to its slenderness ratio.

But, then I am an old guy and I defer to younger eyes.

[John Lewenauer]

A more careful observation will reveal that the heater is not adjusted properly as the gap between the hoop and the pivot point exceeds the cylinder offset and the "bend" that you see is actually a bow in the rod due to its slenderness ratio.

But, then I am an old guy and I defer to younger eyes.

I don't know how young you think I am, but you may be surprised.

I just finished reworking the cables and linkages on my C system with the assistance of an old pro via email. He specifies 2 bends in each rod, but the horizontal ones are not at the axle like the picture shows, rather shortly after the flapper boxes. I have two bends in each of mine and when the securing clamps are released the rods sit with zero tension or binding, same as when the system is in the OFF position. Full heat (cable pull) opens the valve cans fully and closes the flapper boxes 100% with the rods touching nothing through the entire cycle of operation. I'd say the rod system is quite customizable and your rod set up I'm sure works equally well. The key simply seems to be NO binding or tension at rest and complete freedom of movement during operation.

[Dennis Bogle]

Hello all.

Ok, here's a stupid question that my C Coupe manual doesn't answer properly. The heater control in front of the gear shift lever. Which way produces more heat and which way is less? The manual just tells you what the lever does, not which way produces more heat. So, do you push it forward for more? Or back (towards the stick)? And now that it's warm here in Toronto, the heat was really pumping so I closed the vents. But to be honest, I did a little forward/back test.... and while the heat works, I can't really tell the difference between the two directions.

I know, stupid..... C owners out there care to chime in? About the heater control, not my stupidity


Thanks

Jon

Push lever forward to close system and of course pull up to allow heat to enter cabin. The lever should be able to remain where it is stopped (between fully closed and fully open) to modulate volume of warm required air.