Engine bay insulation

[Ron Hoff]

I'm looking at my old insulation (63 T6) and wondering if I can refurbish it, or maybe I should just bite the bullet and order the kit from Stoddard or ?. I would like to know others experience, good, bad, indifferent? Do they fit decently or is there some "rework" necessary?

[Barry Thompson]

I have not used the Stoddard kit but I used a very original "melted tar, need a heat gun and asbestos gloves" to install kit from an outfit in SoCal that worked great on my '65 SC Cab. If interested I can get the name and contact information when I go home tonight.

Barry Thompson
'65 SC Cab Bali Blue over tan

[Dave Wildrick]

I'm looking at my old insulation (63 T6) and wondering if I can refurbish it, or maybe I should just bite the bullet and order the kit from Stoddard or ?. I would like to know others experience, good, bad, indifferent? Do they fit decently or is there some "rework" necessary?

The kit supplied by Stoddard for my 1965C (T6) coupe was not correct in material, finish, or dimensions and was returned. In contrast, Registry advertiser Bill Perrone of the Parts Shop in Huntington Beach, CA, makes kits up to order that are very accurate. This is what was used by Jones Autowerks in San Antonio to replace the insulation that was scorched from the carb fire I had last November.

[Tony Aguirre]

Ron,

I think you need to establish the "look" you are going for. If your ultimate goal is a show winning car I would have to agree with Dave and use Bill Perrone's kit but it'll cost you over $700.00 when I last inquired (and he was backordered for many weeks). If however your attempt is to clean things up, I would use Stoddard's kit at a cost of about $200.00.

Dave is somewhat correct because I used Stoddard's and had to trim here and there but nothing considerable. While my S90 engine was out being rebuilt by Markham Motors here in Burbank I installed the Stoddard's kit. After installation, I painted the felt like material a satin black rustoleum.

My level of car I would consider to be in the wash and shine category and I can assure you that with Markham's engine in, the compartment looks absolutely great. In fact, I got many kudos from Larry Markham on the completed job when he was putting my engine back in.

Determine what level of originality you are going for and what you want to spend.

Good Luck......

[Ben Wainscott]

Ron, I would ring Bill WRT the price and availability for just the engine insulation kit. Believe it was less than $200. I installed all his soundproofing kits and they look excellent. A little tricky, but the engine bay is pretty easy. I have copied below a post of mine on some installation tips.
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I am completing a full up restoration on my 65 SC. Live in San Diego, so about 80 miles from Bill's shop. Picked up the full kit. Interior, fwd closing panels, gas tank, trunk, engine, under trans, etc. By the time you get done, you will be an expert, but it is a bitch, especially under the transaxle area. Having said that, it looks completely original, and I would not have wanted to use any other product. What I learned:

Use a large torch like a roofer would use to melt tar doing what we call a "torch down roof". It connects to a propane bottle from a BBQ and puts out an incredible amount of heat. Very quick compared to a small propane torch, and available in the US for about $20 (plus the propane bottle).

The pieces are very stiff when cold, but after heating they are like spaghetti. In the forward door closing area, they could not be used as one piece, and I had to cut in half. No worries, as you can line up the pieces, and with the tar melted the seam will disappear.

This is generally a two man operation. I put down metal on the garage floor, laid a couple of pieces of wood down to hold the soundproofing off the metal so you could grab it with thick rubber gloves on, and heated the tar till it bubbled. Early mistake was not getting it hot enough. Had a person to help me put it into place, and then worked it into the metal.

The floor with the deep pockets stamped into it really requires some work. I had some leather drafting paper weights (filled with lead shot) from some college class in the 70's, and used them to pound the soundproofing into place. Need to be careful, as you can tear it. But that is why it is important to have it hot enough to fit it. I also cut the floor pieces in half and fitted where the front and rear floor panels mate. Doing it in one piece would have been tough.

Under the transaxle, heated it on the metal sitting on a creeper. Rolled it under the car, and with one on each side we lifted, fitted, and pounded it into place.

Engine compartment not bad, and in fact might be a good place to start, as pieces are small, and easy to just lift in and fit. Did the gas tank last, just because I was refinishing the tank. Piece of cake.

Part that goes in the trunk gets glued in. Didn't think it looked anything like the original sitting on the floor. After installed and beat into all the curves, looks perfect.

Hope this helps.
Ben
65 SC S/R coupe 130924

[Paul Vernon]

Hi Ron,

I spoke to Bill Perone about the price of his engine bay kit last year and I remember it being over $500. I got the Stoddard kit which was about $200, yes it needed trimming but after painting with semi gloss paint it looks really smart. I couldn't justify the cost of Bills kit, I'm not building a show car.

Cheers

Paul

[Michael Cass]

I have not used the Stoddard kit but I used a very original "melted tar, need a heat gun and asbestos gloves" to install kit from an outfit in SoCal that worked great on my '65 SC Cab. If interested I can get the name and contact information when I go home tonight.

Barry Thompson
'65 SC Cab Bali Blue over tan

Hi Barry, do you have any pics of the insulation that you used? The reason I ask is that the original material had a kind of rectagonal checkerboard pattern sort of pressed into it. It is hard to describe but I am sure that others will know what I mean.

All of the repro insulation kits that I have seen are simply smooth finished and do not therefore replicate the true look of the original finish so I am interested to know if the kit that you have used does replicate the look as if and when the time comes for me to restore my car does come I would like to use such a material.

Incidentally, my A coupe has the same insulation material used in the front luggage area also which I am sure is nothing out of the ordinary.

Cheers

Michael.

[Mike Smith]

Do It Once - Do it Right

Bill Perone`s Kit Everytime

[Joseph Kuntze]

michael,
i made mine out of tar paper glued together so the thickness was correct, then used my shop press and some rectangular wire material that i purchased at the hardware store not perfect but pretty good Joe

[Brad Ripley]

The surface finish on the "tar paper" is different on a Reutter car than a Karmann car.

[Ron Hoff]

I want to thank all of you who replied with advice and info. Since this car is intended to be a driver and not concourse I am leaning toward Jim's (HEADBOLT356) Stoddard kit as an inexpensive alternative.

Re: the texture on my 63 T6 insulation, there isn't any to speak of.

This is a great group!!

[Alex Goodhart]

[Gus Borner]

i talked to Bill Perrone and he is not doing the Insulation kit anymore.

he can't get the material he was using any more

options ? is the stoddard kit that far off ?

any other sources ?

thanx

[Bob Watts]

I have an insulation sample from March 19, 1985 sent to me by Donald H. Williams, Fresno, CA. He is not on the Membership list now. Anyone know him? Does he still sell "sound deadening material"? Apparently he was with the Prudential Insurance Company (Fresno). His kit was for the 356-A models (1956-1959). A great trivia question, eh?

[anthony Tarleton]

Rainer Cooney makes great sets but I do not know if he only makes them for the cars he restores. Everything he does is top notch.