SHOCKS FOR A 1964 C

[Bill Federighi]

Hi, I have read the majority of comments in forum. There are many that in into great detail of shocks to use on race or rally cars. I would like to replace all four shocks for cruising not racing. Can anyone recommend a good shock for a positive feel not extremely hard ride.

[David Jones]

My #1 recommendation would be a set of Koni shocks. Link to Stoddard for shocks. https://www.stoddard.com/porsche-356/po ... nents.html
#2 would be Bilsteins
#3 Boges
#4 KYB
#5 whatever you can find in a google search, But before you buy do research on your choice, you can pay anywhere from $100 to $1000 for a set and depending on the set up of the car and driver perception you could be satisfied with any of them.

[Craig Richter]

My recommendation is to NOT use gas-filled shocks on a 356.

[Norm Miller]

Bilsteins are too harsh, also KYB.
Go with the Boges. They are available through Advanced Auto somewhat cheaper than other vendors.

[Bill Federighi]

thank you guys

[C J Murray]

Boges!

[Vic Skirmants]

My recommendation is to NOT use gas-filled shocks on a 356.

+1

[Vic Skirmants]

Bilsteins are too harsh, also KYB.
Go with the Boges. They are available through Advanced Auto somewhat cheaper than other vendors.

+1

[Harlan Halsey]

Konis, set 1 turn from full soft.

[Mark Roth]

I was running Boges until I got the Pirelli CN36 tires. These are soft tires. Suspension felt like mush. Changed to Konis adjusted halfway. Kept up with the 911s on the Hill Country Rallye last year. Drivers asked me if I had modified the suspension which I hadn’t. Road feel is excellent and not at all harsh. I think that one has to match the shocks with the tires.
Edit added:
This is a highway setup. Stock suspension. Soft on the bumpy roads but good road feel. Couldn’t feel the road with Boges and the CN36 tires.

[Norm Miller]

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Not For Racing:
I'd rather have a car that feels like a ball rolling along a highway than like a hockey puck rattling along the surface.
I'm now in my later years and pretty well have the Greasy Kid Stuff out of my system.
That said, if I was 30 again I'd have 17mm sway bar, Koni's, Vic's attitude control, wide low profile tires, stiffer torsion bars, and a free-flow exhaust.
My God, I'm 85 and that's what I have wondering where the time has gone!

Norm

[Craig Richter]

Nice ride, Norm

[Al Zim]

It is very important not to have FRONT shock absorbers longer than 360mm on 356 cars. REAR SHOCKS: The top of the rear shock where you install the nut should be 10MM away from the top of the indent above the bracket. This is not as critical on the rear as it is on the front. Each week we do a MAJOR front end rebuilds which encompasses removing the torsion bars, cleaning and replacing the needle bearings and the bushing on the inner end of the trailing arm. We check the specifications on the trailing arms, spindles, steering arm and 'C' carriers and usually replace the tie rods. You cannot just hammer in and out the bushings, link pins, king pins! These need to be fitted as well as fitting the spindle to the 'C' carrier and shimming it properly. All the grease nipples are replaced and the bushings are lubricated so when they are installed all they will need is a quick shot of grease. Lubrication is important for two reasons the first is to allow the bearings to move smoothly and the second is to push the dirt out of the bearing. It seems that the 356 front ends never wear out. WRONG, lack of grease and hitting the curb with the right front wheel usually wear things out before 200,000 miles. This is an expensive repair. al zim

[Thomas Sottile]

There are two types of shocks available from Bilstein one is priced at under $100 per and one is close $200 per shock the $200 per are original manufacturer specifications and they are printed with a label ( 356 C Carrera 2 )

[David Jones]

Al, why should you not use overlong shocks on disc brake cars? Surely the droop is limited by the spring plate, not the shock, same as drum brake cars. Give us the full story please.