Crankshaft/Piston compatability

[Martin Benade]

What you put in the second time was also AA?

[Jim Clement]

My mistake..
They are Durabar cylinders..

[Martin Benade]

Shasta?

[Jim Clement]

Same as Shasta sells, a great product.

[Martin Benade]

I am about to buy a set. I planned on 1883 Nickies, but then unexpectedly retired so the budget shrank. I got scared off from using the AA set although they are often good, but I need more than often.

[Jim Clement]

I am very happy, and come recommended by my builder Jack Morris..

[Ron LaDow]

"The question you have to ask yourself is A) DO YOU WANT DURABILITY AND LONG LIFE OR B) DO YOU WANT PERFORMANCE."
Al, given the materials available in the '60s, and the questionable quality of the NPR parts available at the time, this was a valid question.
In 1975 or so. Not so much now.
RPM, not power, kills engines. Build a 7KRPM race engine and it's pretty much guaranteed to last a season (4 or 5 races) before a rebop. Build (carefully) a 5.5KRPM 1720 street engine with good (modern) parts, and you'll get 'way more miles than the factory intended; they handed out awards for 60,000 mile engines, for pete's sake!

[Jim Clement]

David A..
the set up you mention is the same as my build..

[David Nicholls]

Many Thanks Gentlemen, for taking the time to reply to my post.
Your knowledge, wisdom and opinions have been very much appreciated.
Merry Christmes and a Happy New Year to you all.
Regards
David

[Wes Bender]

I am about to buy a set. I planned on 1883 Nickies, but then unexpectedly retired so the budget shrank. I got scared off from using the AA set although they are often good, but I need more than often.

Keep saving your coins until you can afford the Shasta Design set from Leonard. You won't be sorry.
The JE pistons and Durabar cylinders are first quality.

[Steve Hatfield]

Martin
Be sure you have a machinist in mind if you go 1883 because they are not drop ins like 1720s.