Instrument cluster removal

[Jim Beam]

1963 356B(T6). I am wondering if there is a recommended procedure for removal of the combination cluster gauge (the one with the oil temperature gauge)? My gauge has bullet connectors. I know there is a bracket on the rear with two nuts which serve to tighten the gauge to the dash from the back side. I am wondering whether I have to remove the bullet connectors prior to pulling the gauge forward and out of the dash. Or, is there sufficient wiring to allow the gauge to be pulled forward and out of the dash, with the wiring still connected. If so, then I can take note of (photograph) which connector goes where on the back of the gauge before removing the various connectors. I am a little concerned about being able to reinstall the gauge with each of the bullet connectors placed in the correct hole on the gauge. I have searched the various Articles but have not been able to find any information on this. Thanks.

[Mike Wilson]

It may be tight but I've pulled the bullet connections with the gauge partially removed. However, I try to pull as many connections as possible including the lights before I remove the gauge. Depending upon how long it's been since the connections have been removed, they can be a pain. If tight, try a little penetrating oil to loosen them up. Put a towel under the gauge and painter's tape around it so you don't scratch the dash.

Wiring diagrams are available on line and I strongly suggest getting a copy of Joe Leoni's electrical disgram book.

Mike

[Jim Hohensee]

Be very careful when removing the bullet connectors from the gauge. Especially from the oil temp and the gas gauge. Try to support the female socket with a screw driver and pull on the bullet with a needle nose. A helper would be good to hold the gauge while you work on the back. There should be enough wire to pull the gauge out for this.You know how I know this! +1 on Mike's recommendations.

Jim

[Martin Benade]

Be sure to pull straight. I once broke several of the gauge connections by not pulling straight

[Wes Bender]

..and if you're not sure about where they go, put a piece of masking tape on each wire, mark them for your reference and draw a picture to assist.

[Alfred Knittel]

Home Depot has number books in the electric aisle
Would work good

[Jay Darlington]

Be very careful when removing the bullet connectors from the gauge. Especially from the oil temp and the gas gauge. Try to support the female socket with a screw driver and pull on the bullet with a needle nose. A helper would be good to hold the gauge while you work on the back. There should be enough wire to pull the gauge out for this.You know how I know this! +1 on Mike's recommendations.

Jim

I want to second this, be VERY careful with the female sockets they break off VERY easy and are expensive to repair. i'm presently trying to repair 2 broken ones on my gauges. i'm first going to try and cast a new socket sleeve from epoxy. second idea is to just connect a heavier wire then silicone it were it pass through the metal holder then and an insulated billet connector.
Jay D.

[gregg hake]

...I have been working on mine and there isn't alot of extra wire to the bullets to allow you to get the dash out very far before you run out of slack. I ended up numbering my wires and sockets, then detaching them and pulling the gauge out. Unfortunately, unless you are 2 feet tall, it isn't easy working on the gauge wiring.

[Mike Wilson]

Being "vertically-challenged" certainly is beneficial when working under the dash.

Mike

[Jay Darlington]

Pulling the dr. seat out will let you slither under the dash a little easier..
Jay D.

[Jim Hohensee]

When working on under dash wiring follow the wires up the harness that are making you work under the dash and release the mounting tabs that secure the harness. That should give you some more slack so you don't have to work with all the blood running into your head. I am dizzy enough with out extra help.

Jim

[Norm Miller]

Over the last 60 years, I must have spent at least 1 lying on my back working behind the dash.
I have found that removing the seat will shorten the recovery time for back strain.
Best results:
A pillow over the brake & clutch pedals.
A blanket folded on the floor.
A LED headband light.
My close up glasses, tri focals suck.
Needle nose pliars.
Don't stretch the wires as they will show you where they're supposed to go, and make a diagram.
Don't release the hold down bracket until you've pulled the wires.
Good luck and no dash scratches or bent terminals.
If you are over 6' take off your shoes. Foot prints on the headliner are not cool.

[gregg hake]

I did the following for working on my gauge wiring.
1. I removed the seat.
2. I put a bunch of cardboard on the floor (by "a bunch" I mean about 6 sheets).
3. Found my magnifier glasses, several sets of pliers and needle nose pliers and put them in a small tray on the passenger side floor to keep handy while I was on the floor.
4. Then I made a pillow to rest my head on.
5. Then I made 2 copies of the complete schematic, and the pinouts of the gauge connections from when I bought the wiring harness from YnZ 20 years ago.
6. I kept the 2 sets handy on the passenger side floor of the car.
7. I put my cell phone on the passenger side.
8. I put a water bottle on the passenger side floor.

And only THEN, did I start checking the wiring !
I learned the 8 steps above by trial and error. I found I made the statement "Where did I put the <insert tool name or schematic or phone here>" about every minute and I developed a real six pack from having to do a "crunch" and get off the floor to look for the tool or schematic.

[Mike Wilson]

Add: flashlight or LED or fluorescent drop light.

Mike