1959 356A Electrical starting problems

[Leonard Schenkel]

Sometimes I hop in the car, turn the key and the starter starts the engine.
Other times I hop in the car, turn the key and all I hear is a click. After 2, 3 or more clicks, the starter will work and the engine will start.
Heat is not the issue.
This was not a problem before I took the car in for general curing of many oil leaks. This grew into a much larger job, but no need to elaborate. I assume the starter motor was removed during this overhaul with the engine and transmission out. The mechanic himself, mentioned the problem when I went to pick up the car, but he said it always cleared up via the scenario mentioned above. He's great with mechanics and tuning, but not much on electrical.
The starter has been removed and thoroughly cleaned by the same mechanic, with no improvement.
Any ideas on how to test to fine which component is causing the problem would be appreciated. Remember, the problem is intermittent. I just hope I can find a cure before it becomes permanent.

[Doug McDonnell]

https://www.cyberwerkstatt.com/Members_ ... ooting.htm

[Larry Coreth]

Lenard,
You have two potential problem, either will cause your problem
1. The solenoid contacts are carboned up causing very high resistance.
To verify, with car jacked up at the rear, short the two big thick wire terminal with a medium screw driver, if it works, solenoid is the
culprit.
Solution: remove solenoid disassemble and sand contacts, clean and smooth. Or new solenoid.

2. The contact brushes are worn out, too short to make contact with the commutator all the time , i.e. at a certain position of the starter when comes to halt after starting. This is caused by the commutator no longer being completely circular, i.e. egg shaped.
Solution: Remove starter replace commutator brushes.

[Don Gale]

Also, 4 cyl boxer motors have a propensity for the flywheel to stop in the same place or 180° out. Over time, the pinion will occasionally strike in the middle of a ring gear tooth and kick up a burr. As the scenario progresses, eventually it will impede the pinion from engaging. If that's the case, put it in gear and bump the car a few inches to move the flywheel to a "clean" position and try starting again. If it now starts, the fix is a new flywheel or dress the ring gear teeth with a file. They should have a slight lead-in taper. Your 1st approach should be to clean all the contacts and grounds. Next, disassemble and dress the solenoid internal contacts or new solenoid per the previous post. Other than that, the starter solenoid circuit goes thru the ignition switch and its contacts could be burned or worn. In the interim, try tapping the solenoid with a hammer. Don't rule out needing a new pinion shaft bushing.

[Mike Wilson]

Starter bushing?

Mike

[Dick Weiss]

Problem 3;

The ignition switch internal contacts are arc/burned and needs a rebuild
and the key stays w/the door locks.

[Don Gale]

Here's a link for cleaning the internal contacts in the starter solenoid. Ignore the reference to Moto Guzzi, it's nearly identical to round VW & 356 solenoids. Scroll down to Item 36 near the bottom of the page:

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzz ... osch-.html

[Leonard Schenkel]

Thanks to all of the 356 lovers who gave suggestions. I'll try the easiest ones first, but if a complete starter rebuild is required, I'll have to pass and just have it replaced. Getting on in years (86) and the kind of work I did originally isn't as inviting as it used to be.

[Dan Kalinski]

Isolate the ignition switch with a hot wire configuration. If starter performs as needed, the ignition switch is your culprit. If same results persist with hot wire, your solenoid/starter needs to be looked at closer.

Since you have someone that is mechanically inclined at your disposal, would also suggest that ALL of the ground locations be cleaned and fastened correctly and to make sure the same can be said for the positive connections in this part of the electrical system. Further, if your starter has been painted, I’ve found that removal of all the paint at the interface of the starter and transaxle should be free of any paint. At least, this seemed to have solved a similar problem on my ‘63.

I own a ‘59 as well and love this car!