The Official 356Talk Forum

Greetings...When I run my freshly rebuilt motor, on a car with fresh starter and wireing harness, I turn the key off and the motor doesn't turn off.

1. When not running, I can turn the key clockwise one position and the red Gen light comes on.
2. Turn it counterclockwise back to the off position, the light turns off.
3. Start the car...the red light stays on brightly regardless of RPM's.
4. Battery voltage goes up to 7.15 volts while engine is running so I assume the regulator and Gen are doing their jobs.
5. Now, turn key back to off, but Gen light stays on and motor wont turn off.
6. Pull the B+ wire on the regulator and the car now stops.

My assumption is that there is a problem with the cutoff on the regulator but not sure.

Any ideas?attachment=0]IMG_4759.jpg[/attachment]

Greg, I am going to say there is a wrong connection on the ignition switch because the power to the coil goes through the ignition switch and should turn the engine off regardless of the regulator operation. Check the connection for ignition is in the correct place on the switch.

Thank you, David. I will check the pin outs again to make certain. I have verified many times and even went as far as buying a new ignition switch to no avail.
Although I will verify again, my wiring still has the tags on each wire from YnZ and each wire is in the same spot as the YnZ directions specify, and my schematic from registry member, Mr. Bryan.

What I haven't verified numerous times is if these wires are originating from the proper source, though.

Greg, pull fuse #1 as that supplies power to circuits that are only live when the ignition is on but is common via the ignition switch connections to the ignition power, and if you had a back feed that would keep the ignition live. I cannot come up with any other ideas other than the original one.

Take a picture of the back of the ignition switch. The charging system is feeding the coil wire and David is most likely correct that the ignition switch wires are misplaced.

Thank you, Gentlemen. I will take pictures tonight when I get home.

Here is the back of my ignition switch. I haven't had a chance to poke around the past 2 nights as work has been taking too much time.

You may have K and X switched per my instructions from Y&Z but hard to tell from the pictures. Should be 20 then K then X

The schematics indicate the 3 female connections on 15 are the same connection from an electrical standpoint, so the wires can be moved around with no change in functionality.

Greg, if you pull the black and white wire from the switch does the engine shut off? If not then there is a wiring problem.

30-red is correct
50-black starter is correct
15-black/white to coil is correct

Disconnect all other wires.

Turn the key to the run position and see if the 2 disconnected wires are hot. They should be dead.

Start the car and see if the loose wires are hot while the engine is running. If a wire is hot you have feedback from the charging system.

Turn the key off. Did it stop? If so that disconnected hot circuit is back feeding voltage through some connection to the charging system and feeding it to the black/white wire when connected to the switch. I would look at the fuse box first in that case. Fuse #1 is where the unused/disconnected black wire is ultimately connected so maybe the problem is there? The blue/yellow wire powers the gauges so I don't think that would be the problem but I don't know for sure.

NOTE- The fuse block fuses are numbered right to left, Chinese style. Don't get tricked.

Hi

So the disconnected wires are dead when the key is turned to "on" (car not running).
Blue wire is hot when the car is running (black is dead).
Car stops now when key is turned off.
Additionally, if the black wire is plugged in, the car still turns off properly.
So we have narrowed it down to the blue wire circuit

The blue wire is supposed to power the gauges. You must have another power source attached to the blue wire or to a connection at the back of the gauges. Remember that nothing other than the electrical meters of the gauges should be connected to the blue wire.

Just finishing up a job in Philadelphia and then it is time to head back to the left coast and concentrate on this issue.
CJ had mentioned that I shouldn't have any other power connected to the blue wire on the combo gauge, but aren't all the lights (blue and brown wires I think) connected to all the combo lights AND the generator light...which is connected to the Regulator terminal 61? Is the regulator terminal 61 always at 6 volts if the motor/generator is running, thus the combo lights at 6 volts and, finally, the ignition switch terminal 15 at 6 volts as long as the motor and generator running? If so, how can the ignition switch turn off the motor (since I cant get rid of the 6 volts while the motor is running ??

Quote from above:
"but aren't all the lights (blue and brown wires I think) connected to all the combo lights AND the generator light...which is connected to the Regulator terminal 61?"

Others have been ably leading you. I get to pounce at the moment of truth (just because I happen to be here reading). Oooooh!
Although the voltage regulator wire may have a blue color like the power to the dashboard lamps it is NOT to be treated as the same purpose wire.
The voltage regulator (blue) wire brings the output of the generator armature forward to the dashboard where that voltage can be compared with battery voltage, available from one of the outputs of the ignition switch.

That is how you are delivering generator armature output voltage (power) to your ignition system.

The voltage regulator (blue) wire should only go to one side of the generator indicator lamp socket. (The indicator lamp performs the voltage comparison between the two wires connected to its filliment. If either voltage is significantly higher then the other the lamp lights.)