The Official 356Talk Forum

Is there some trick for getting the tach drive oil pump plug off? I've soaked it in Kroil for days and it doesn't want to budge. I'm reluctant to muscle it off for fear of damaging something.

It's already oil-soaked from the inside. I'd put it in a vise with a piece of plywood on both sides and lean on the socket driver. Or if you have an impact wrench, do the same an use that.

I usually go to heat after penetrating oil, particularly when the steel part is in aluminum. We used to call it the acetelene wrench.

Why are you removing the oil pump plug? Do believe there is excess "end play" in the gear that requires a thicker shim?

Tim Berardelli wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 5:19 pm Why are you removing the oil pump plug? Do believe there is excess "end play" in the gear that requires a thicker shim?

To be honest, I was just assuming that it deserved cleaning and inspection. I know, I know. "Assume makes an Ass out of U and ME", to quote Pellow. If disassembly is unnecessary, that would be great.

Almost everything I've touched on this engine has been incorrect and / or so badly worn it needed replacing. The exceptions I can think of are the case, heads, carbs, and camshaft.

ditto, heat. Play a propane torch around the sides of the threaded boss. No need to get excessively hot.

Muscle it off. Use a new crush washer when re-assembling and wire it secure.

I got nervous with a 2' pipe on my wrench and ended up zipping it off with a battery powered impact gun. I don't think mine had ever been removed. Wonder what the factory torque spec is?

Just tight enough that it doesn't leak. Then safety wire it.

A combination of torch, 1/2 drive socket, and rubber mallet finally freed it. I'm glad I did it, as the inside is looking pretty gunked. I think that's the appropriate technical term. The parts catalog references a Thrust Washer (369.05.718) of varying thickness (.8, .6, or .5mm) with quantity X. I assume this is to adjust the end play that Tim references. Where is acceptable endplay defined? I don't see instructions for assembly or assessment in the workshop manual. I don't see that an existing spacer is in ours. Searches of the forum seem to yield a result of near zero? Is that the answer? I'm not clear if I need one, and if so what thickness... Should the pinion #69 be able to removed from the housing now that the pressure screw is off? Ours seems captured.

Just use a wood block or dowel and tap with a small hammer...the tang will pop out at the other end.

Geoff Fleming wrote: ↑Fri Dec 27, 2019 6:40 pm Just use a wood block or dowel and tap with a small hammer...the tang will pop out at the other end.

Geoff; that's a little confusing. Do you mean the gear will pop out?
Dennis; yes, you need a shim. I don't think I have ever seen all the listed thickness ones available.

Yes...assuming, of course, the unit has been removed from the engine and the gear shaft is being held captive by coagulated oil/gunk.