Striker plate problems

[Jim Johnston]

Once is bad luck, maybe, but twice? The driver's door striker plate on my '59 coupe has cracked at the bottom center, and the door will therefore not latch. This is the second Stoddard unit to do that, each lasting less than a year. I know the plastic is crappy compared to originals, but I'm trying to figure out why I'm having this problem. The door hinge is tight and allows no vertical movement and the gaps on door are perfect. The placement of the plate seems just right, as installed by my mechanic with decades of experience. What's going on?

[Mike Wilson]

The problem is the size of the holes for the screws and the screw heads. They are mismatched and create the cracks.

[Norm Miller]

Ok I buy that so get a countersink and correct the depth and angle to match the screws. Don't over torque the screws, snug with screw driver.

[Mike Wilson]

That's what I would do. Ed Rutherford of Klasse 356 has encountered the same issue and could offer his advice and solution.

Mike

[Stephen Masefield]

Just FYI for the latch design I refer to

0225191050b.jpg (57.52 KiB) Viewed 590 times

The overall size of the curve and mounting recess is wrong on current repro latches (T1 early '57 I should add) - I have been in discussion with Stoddard and showed them the issue at Lit. Meet and they agreed it is incorrect and will be remade - force the door shut into the mounting recess could/will result in problems - this is separate from the mounting hole issue. I was talking with Paul Domitrovic - maybe ask him where they are these issues -- many squeaking wheels etc ! PDomitrovic2@stoddard.com (but again - many thanks for their support and parts of course!)