Crankcase Studs Torque Spec

[Dennis Vogel]

Am I correct in understanding that there are no torque specifications for studs going into the case? (Red items 4, 18, 19, 20 in the attached image)

CaseStuds.png (77.79 KiB) Viewed 610 times

Should they get anything applied (i.e. Loctite)?

I've been through the factory manual, forum, Pellow video & books, and registry tech books. I am not really finding any mention of installing the studs. I am only finding torque specs for the cylinder head bolts.

Thanks.

[Dick Weiss]

Dennis,

Yes, you won't find any torque specs for the studs being entered into the case; They're usually bottomed out in their holes and as long as they protrude past their nut-faces around 1 to 1-1/4 of the stud diameters for
the assembly-torque specs for each size, there shouldn't be a problem--unless some were changed.
IE: The nuts w/washers should be @ least fully engaged/flush w/the stud ends.
All the lengths are listed in the parts book.

NOTE: Make sure all the cylinder studs are equally engaged--Heights should be in line w/each other!
Also, the case thru-studs and bolt to be equal. (if they've been removed)
Dick

[Dick Weiss]

BTWay,

The squared end of the head studs are entered into the case; The slightly rounded end makes it easier to install the heads.

[Dave Erickson]

In addition to the details Dick provided, I would only add two things:
first, make sure the studs are matching. i.e. all the #4 studs should match and all the #20 studs should match. #4 studs came in different thicknesses depending on whether they came from A, B or C cases, and as a result I speculate that they had different tensile strengths. I am not so sure about #20 studs since I have never removed them.

second, there is no need for loctite. Just tighten them enough that they won't come loose. I wire brush them and lubricate the threads before assembly.

[Dave Erickson]

In addition to the details Dick provided, I would only add two things:
first, make sure the studs are matching. i.e. all the #4 studs should match and all the #20 studs should match. #4 studs came in different thicknesses depending on whether they came from A, B or C cases, and as a result I speculate that they had different tensile strengths. I am not so sure about #20 studs since I have never removed them.

second, there is no need for loctite. Just tighten them enough that they won't come loose. I wire brush them and lubricate the threads before assembly.