Solex 40 needle and seat sticking

[James Watters]

Thanks Doug. When I saw the gas under the car, checking the oil was the second thing I did, lol. I appreciate your input.

[Phil Planck]

James
When you remove the carb, before doing anything except possibly snugging up the cover screws, pour fuel thru the vent into the float bowl. Mayby 1/4 cup. Then, holding carb level with one hand, actuate throttle lever untill fuel comes out accel jets. Check for external leaks at bottom check valve and 2 side accel jets, and other areas.

Also, before removing, check tightness of 17mm atf banjo bolt. Should be a red fiber washer on each side of banjo.

Your carb/s seems to be leaking externally. If cover plate screws are loose, maybe some other jets or plugs are loose also.

[James Watters]

Pulled the carbs today. Needle and seat was stuck on the right carb. Re cleaned all jets. Floats were great but cleaned the bowls. Re assembled everything and tried to fire the car. I pumped it a few times turned it over and it almost started on the first try. I stopped, inspected the carbs and the left carb base gasket was leaking gas. I just ordered new gaskets so we'll see what happens in a week or so.
Thanks to everyone that provided input. I really appreciate your help.

[Mitch Covington]

...When replacing the carb top, be sure that the two small springs that are on the under side go into the carb , in order to hold down the float pivot.
...

My carb is flooding also, and i just cleaned the carbs and replaced the float valves not long ago. I've ordered the good valves from Zims now and will replace the cheap ones that came in the kits. I think i need to replace my little springs too, one is distorted, I probably squashed it a little. I don't see these in any of the main parts houses, anybody know where to get them? I'd also like to get floats... are there new ones, or you have to get reconditioned ones? Source?

I, for one, am lucky that my house hasn't burned down from my carb escapades! I'm gonna figure it out and fix it myself, though, and take my chances.

[Doug McDonnell]

A lot of us wish new floats were available. But not that I am aware of.

[Martin Benade]

If you mean the springs that hold down the float pivot shaft they have an easy job and should be fine straightened with needle nose pliers. I suspect half of a ball point pen spring might be thin enough to do, too

[Mitch Covington]

A lot of us wish new floats were available. But not that I am aware of.

How about a source for reconditioned ones? I know I've seen a source not long ago, but can't seem to find it now. I guess I could try to recondition mine and will search the threads for that if there is no better option.

[Martin Benade]

I have not heard of this but dipping the float in gas-tank sealing compound seems like it should work well.

[Mitch Covington]

I have not heard of this but dipping the float in gas-tank sealing compound seems like it should work well.

thanks for that suggestion, makes sense. I guess the float would be heavier, but that's what the adjusting screw is for.

[Mitch Covington]

If you mean the springs that hold down the float pivot shaft they have an easy job and should be fine straightened with needle nose pliers. I suspect half of a ball point pen spring might be thin enough to do, too

OK, good to know. Not a high precision part. I wondered about the pen springs.. they sure reminded me of those.

[Martin Benade]

Good point on float weight, that I hadn’t considered. But hopefully are still within the adjustments.

[David Jones]

Weight would be an issue as the float would not be as buoyant so I would look for the thinnest gasoline proof film I could find. I would think that whatever is used for the inside of gas tanks would be on the heavy side but how I wonder would a clear coat stand up to gasoline. That is also available in spray cans. I shall look and see if I kept one of my old floats that sprung a leak and see if it can be sealed that way. I hope I did not throw it away thinking I could easily buy a spare.

[Scott McAdams]

James, I just went thru this exercise. I ordered new top gaskets and that turned out to be a good call. The old gasket on one of the carbs had adhered to the bottom carb face at an area where it got very narrow. That carb had a stuck needle valve and gas was going everywhere, so who knows, maybe that was the culprit. There was no way to scrape the old gasket off without damaging it. I worked on one carb in-place, and it went fine, but elected to pull out the second carb and work on it on the bench. That allows you to do a better job of inspecting everything and cleaning everything up. But then of course, you probably should order the new gaskets for the bottom while you’re at it... Luckily the gaskets are pretty cheap. And I agree with the prior comment - the 1.75mm valves with the spring loaded ball in the needle appear to be much better made - worth the extra money.

[Jim Hohensee]

Several of my friends had trouble with sticking needle valves when ethanol gas first came on the market. After switch to non-ethanol gas the problem has been greatly reduced. I know this topic has been brought up several times, but for newer car owners this seemed like a good post to beat that dead horse.

[jule block]

Has anyone tried making new floats out of something like nitrophyl foam?