Steering Question

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tim ryan
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Steering Question

#1 Post by tim ryan »

On my 356 B I feel a little give (almost like a cable slipping) when reaching the end of a hard left turn. It doesn't happen on a hard right turn. Any thoughts on where to start or a known solution? Trying to get car ready for the WCH which will be 3500+ miles!
Tim Ryan

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Geoff Fleming
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Re: Steering Question

#2 Post by Geoff Fleming »

Check everything connected with the steering...steering box, tie-rods, link/ king pins, etc. Is the steering box correctly centered? Very important that it is set per factory specs. Articles in past Registry issues will define how to do this. Is the clamping at the coupler between shaft and steering box tight? No slipping of the splines should be possible. Steering box and tie rod ends should be inspected to ensure they are tight and not having any 'give'.

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Mike Wilson
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Re: Steering Question

#3 Post by Mike Wilson »

I had a similar issue that was a loose shaft clamp.

Mike
Mike Wilson
Lomita, CA
'63 B coupe

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Ron LaDow
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Re: Steering Question

#4 Post by Ron LaDow »

Pretty sure one of the backing plate bolts is longer than the other and acts as a steering stop. If that bolt is in the wrong location, it does not stop the travel of the spindle. The geometry of the pitman arm and the short tie on the left allows steering to get very close to over-centering, which can feel like the steering wheel is moving but the front wheels are not responding.
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Mike Wilson
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Re: Steering Question

#5 Post by Mike Wilson »

Correct, Ron, and another item to check.
Mike Wilson
Lomita, CA
'63 B coupe

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Martin Benade
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Re: Steering Question

#6 Post by Martin Benade »

Also check that the damper is not restricting movement. I believe some replacements have a shorter travel than needed, and the placement of the stationary end must be correct.
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DonCichocki
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Re: Steering Question

#7 Post by DonCichocki »

Steering coupling?

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Ron LaDow
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Re: Steering Question

#8 Post by Ron LaDow »

DonCichocki wrote: Mon Apr 29, 2019 9:24 pm Steering coupling?
Don,
I've had a couple (sorry) of coupler failures. None gave (partial) additional travel, and fortunately, I never pulled the wheel back to find I had A WHOLE LOT(!) of additional travel.
Pretty sure it's a "go" - "no-go" issue when the stock (and most aftermarket) coupler(s) fail.
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Dick Weiss
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Re: Steering Question

#9 Post by Dick Weiss »

There are 3-bolts holding the front backing plates and the forward one is the stop bolt to limit the steering angle left and right.
The 10 x 17 ATF comes in 4-lengths--16,17,18, & 19mm.

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Al Zim
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Re: Steering Question

#10 Post by Al Zim »

Measuring the front axle components is a situation that only few shops can do. As shown in your shop manual you will need a P69 to measure the steering arm they can bend and be straightened. You will need a P-70 to make sure the trailing arms are not bent. The tool outlined in a previous registry magazine article will not function properly because of improper fabrication. Finally you will need VW259 to measure the offset of the carrier for the link pins. If the spindle is rusty, you must exercise extreme car in remove the king pin so you do not harm the spindle. Worn King pins can be replaced with a larger king pin. Porsche and VW installed a phenolic spacers so various thickness of shims to compensate for varying tolerances in machining. Later this became a plastic washer! Not a good idea! It is a better choice to have proper shim made by a machine shop. It usually takes Zim's a week to evaluate and repair you front end. Properly done it is expensive. Usually we find that the lower right trailing arm is bent from bumping curbs. Used parts must be measured before installation. Normally we find over 50% of what we purchase used to be bent beyond repair. I would suggest you check your steering coupler clamps to the steering box and steering column that is the only area where slipping can occur. al zim Zim's autotechnik 800.356.2964 2019/05/02
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ScottBerry
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Re: Steering Question

#11 Post by ScottBerry »

Is there a torque value for tightening the bolts for the column bracket to the torsion tube? Concerned it is an aluminum bracket.
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Al Zim
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Re: Steering Question

#12 Post by Al Zim »

Torque on the 10MM nut is 40 FT. Lbs. Be sure you use a Nylock washer it will be easier to install then the rusty nuts you have. After you tap the stud hole use a red (strong) lock tight so the stud does not turn when tightening the nut. Clean the steering shaft to ease assembly of the column. THE MOST IMPORTANT THING IS: To properly hold the pitman arm during assembly.
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ScottBerry
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Re: Steering Question

#13 Post by ScottBerry »

Thanks Al. I have tapped the holes. Good suggestion on the lock tight and nylon washers. I marked the pitman arm when I removed should the pitman arm be installed first before I install the steering box. I recall this was a tight fit getting out.
1960 356B (110196) restoration project in progress
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ScottBerry
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Re: Steering Question

#14 Post by ScottBerry »

Follow up question - I forgot to order this part - the safety metal tab- with the nylon lock nut washer is it still necessary?
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Al Zim
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Re: Steering Question

#15 Post by Al Zim »

You can only install the pitman arm one way. Use a Nylock nut we have been for over 25 years.
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