Horn Button Backing Plate Removal

[Bill Bausser]

Well it’s off. Read and re-read the instructions from the thread as well as a couple of old threads I found when I did the search. The problem was my inability to follow directions. Press real hard as hard as MF’er then turn real hard CCW and really turn hard. I was trying to do both at the same time, press while turning rather than two seperate moves. I finally I got the right moves down and it came right off.

Thanks all. Now my Les Leston has a new home.

[Doug McDonnell]

Congrats! Looks beautiful

[Ned Hamlin]

I tried "tapping with a rubber mallet" and ended up having to buy a new backing plate at considerable cost. Locate a young friend with big strong hands and it will come off.

[Bill Bausser]

BF26B940-65D9-400C-AF3F-B0BA34F8ED6B.jpeg (3.55 MiB) Viewed 1657 times

It’s off. I was trying to press real hard and turn CCW at the same time. I re-read the comments and broke the task to two events. Press like a MF’er and then Turn. Once I got the tasks down it came right out. I put a Les Leston wheel on it and it now looks fabulous.

Thanks for your help forum.

Bill

[Mike Wilson]

Congrats, Bill. The wheel looks great!

Mikr

[Ronald Sieber]

Bill:
I have a Les Leston wheel like yours and adapted it to an A steering column base. I would like to mount a horn assembly (button, housing, etc) like what you have to complete it. Did you use a special kit or adapter for that?
=rdsieber

[Bill Bausser]

Ronald. I acquired the wheel as shown intact and no mods were needed. I understand the wheel with holes in the spokes as opposed to the Spears are very rare when set up for Porsche’s.

[Randy Mittelstet]

having gone through this horn button removal replacement recently...... here is a link to a 2010 discussion on the Forum that covers many suggestions/solutions good & not so.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=16592&p=72416&hilit ... val#p72416

Order the rubber horn cup in advance because you should replace it while you already have things apart. For $20, you can also get a new horn contact pin assembly to avoid any issues with that sooner or later. I got these parts along with the entire button assembly from Brad Ripley at Stoddards.
Then you should be good for another 60 years, hopefully, without dealing with the horn button again.

An additional note if anyone wants to remove their steering wheel. Do it with an impact wrench if possible. Harbor Freight has a battery powered one that can also do lug nuts. I think it is about $70. It zipped my steering wheel nut off in about 3 seconds. They also have the 27mm impact socket for $6.

What worked for me was first working the horn button for a while to help "break down" the hardened rubber cup. Then pushing down hard with both palms stacked on button and getting fingers in positions to help hold onto the 3 spikes and turn counter clock. I held the steering wheel with my knees. It didn't move so I worked the horn button again to breakdown the hidden rubber cup some more. Then repeated the process trying pushing down with one palm and turning wheel with other hand. This time it loosened and I was able to turn it. Be aware the part of the horn button that actually needs the twisting torque are the 3 spikes. Once the assembly starts turning, it will quickly come to a stop. This is due to the assembly arriving at a small indent on the steering wheel plate. Continue to press down with palm and turn past this short resistance. It takes about a 1/4 turn to complete entire removal.
Keep a flat and evenly hard pressure on the entire surface of the button since it will rock side to side a little keeping one of the 3 "nubs" from moving when turning counter clockwise.
When replacing the horn button, you will see on the button backing plate a small dark spot where the horn contact pin made contact all these years. This will help you know about where to line up your old or new button. Also, the same down pressure is used to replace button while turning CLOCKWISE this time of course.

Also, thanks to Jim Breazeale who was very helpful in working through this. Here's one note from him that came with the small parts photo.

"The two parts off to the right are the spring loaded horn contact (PN: 914 347 831 00 described as a "horn contact pin") and the rubber "cuff" (PN: 901 347 823 01 described as a "horn return spring")
The rubber part, as well as the contact, is the culprit in lots of horn button problems.
If your rubber "spring" is not sitting up like the one in the picture but is flattened out and is hard as a rock, it needs to be replaced."

guess it's about time to send this to press!

[David Aronson]

Hi Bill, I thought you might want to see the working side. The black rubber gets as hard as plastic and is not moveable. This is a new rubber part. You may apply wd40 and wait, hoping that the rubber will give a bit and the junction of rubber to metal seperates. That is what has it resisting a rotation. Push hard and really really twist CCW. A tap with a mallet (CAREFUL) might help brake the bond.
I used some heat, hair dryer or paint remover blower. It finally worked. Careful with the heat! Good Luck

[David Aronson]

Glad to hear of your success.....Nice job!