Full flow oil filtration

[Simon Whittley]

Been reading up recently on the pitfalls of the 356 bypass oil filtration system and converting to a full flow system seems to be a sensible option if you don't like rebuilding engines too often.
However it seems the options for fitting a remote filter (and cooler) require drilling into the engine and / or removing the mechanical rev counter drive. Are there any easy (ish) options for full flow oil filtration?

[Jim Liberty]

Leave everything factory unless you are racing the car. Change the oil and filter every 2000 miles. Jim.

[Ron LaDow]

You can leave everything and hope you get lucky enough to change the oil before that un-filtered 90% ruins the bearings, or you could fit one of these:
https://precisionmatters.biz/full-flow- ... relief.php
It requires the notch circled in red here:
https://precisionmatters.biz/backstory-clean-oil.php
And zero other modifications. You can cut the notch with a Dremel.

[Jim Liberty]

Ron's stuff is the way to go if you want better protection. ……………..Jim.

[Mike Wilson]

However, it won't allow use of a mechanical tach, right? I have the Precision Matters free flow oil filter but I have an electric tach. Ron, isn't there another model that has a remotely located filter and the hose connections are on the side of the third piece so the mechanical tach drive is maintained?

Mike

[John Brooks]

I just installed Ron's Pre-mat oil filter in a complete rebuild. Its is super, I Highly Recommend it on a rebuild.

[Ron LaDow]

However, it won't allow use of a mechanical tach, right? I have the Precision Matters free flow oil filter but I have an electric tach. Ron, isn't there another model that has a remotely located filter and the hose connections are on the side of the third piece so the mechanical tach drive is maintained?
Mike

Mike, IFAIK, no one has managed to get the oil out and back into a mechanical-tach pump cover. You can get it out, but that means drilling and tapping the side of the timing cover to get it back in. The Pre Mat Remote Adapter gets it out and in without drilling the timing cover, but still needs an electric tach.
Believe me, that issue has gotten a LOT of attention, and there is simply not enough real-estate there to accommodate the mechanical drive and the required oil galleys without some drills that drill around corners.
Here's the article from when they were made out of rocks, but I think it's still good info:
https://precisionmatters.biz/pdf/full-f ... ration.pdf
And thanks for the recommendation, guys.

[Gary Koehler]

Simon,
I would use a f/f filter; a good rebuild is probably $10K these days, and better oil filtration protects your investment.
The following picture shows the amount of iron collected over 4 days from an engine oil drain (with a bypass filter); in a drained oil container, using a magnetic collector plate. The iron collected on the plate over four days was 2.1 grams. Cold, non-circulating oil, with suspended particles. Over time still more was collected.
Regarding filter typ, Occam’s Razor Suggest that the simplest method is often the best

F9C92C06-754A-4975-98BF-AC4B4CECCA27.jpeg (4.12 MiB) Viewed 4901 times

.

[Craig Richter]

Mike, I'm obviously very old school about the necessity for a full-flow oil system, and I don't mind all the hoses and crap one must deal with because I figured out good ways to mount those things years ago. Ron hadn't come up with his brilliant design until long after I retired as an "active" engine builder. My suggestion here is to not worry about your mechanical tach and its' wiggly and slow pointer action. Embrace modern tachs. They are quick, accurate and reliable, and either of the popular gauge companies can put the works in your original housing.

[Ron LaDow]

First, small-pump engines (pre '60) really have no choice. You'll need to have your pump-cover modified to accept an outlet elbow and return the oil on the side of the timing cover.
For post '60 engine's, using the Pre Mat part, here's the 'standard' recommendations:
1) Yes, convert to electric tach; much better, and less load on that oil-pump drive tang.
2) Assuming it's original, put the tach head in the box with the other parts original to your car. The Speedo places only charge ~$50 extra for a brand new one and your original is worth more than that when your car finally ends up being sold. You no longer have to replace the mech-tach-drive gear; $300 back in your pocket.
3) Cap off both ends of the tach cable to keep it from drying out, tie it off with ny-ties, leave it there.
4) Any large-pump car already has an extra electrical lead; use that to provide the signal to the tach.
4) Leave the stock filter; change that when you change the full-flow.
5) Pull the dip-stick at 3,000 miles and marvel that you can still see it through the oil!
BTW, the web image is OLD; here's a newer one (let's see if the new software accepts hi-res images)

99 001.JPG (2.53 MiB) Viewed 4877 times

YAAA!

[Mike Wilson]

Thanks for the link to that article, Ron. It jogged my memory as I had read it and saw the modified oil pump gear/tach drive cover for a remotely-located filter. That's the one I was thinking of.

I've very happy with my free flow filter and I already had an electric tach so converting tachs wasn't an issue.

Mike

[Harlan Halsey]

seems to be a sensible option if you don't like rebuilding engines too often.

I think around 80,000-100,000 miles is a reasonable expectation for a 356 street engine life. That's what I got. In addition to driving that car daily through Boston traffic to work, I towed my race car with it for several years around New England. And then the crank measured within the tolerance range and didn't need polishing. That engine has another 35,000 miles on it by now. So if that kind of performance isn't good enough for you, by all means try to extend it. I did change the oil about every 2,000 miles, and the filter every 10,000. None of the millions of aircooled VWs had a full flow oil filter, or any filter at all, yet they are not known for oil related failures. Porsche knew was it was doing.

I think full flow filters on street engines are right up there with small steering wheels, big bore kits, wide wheels, and electronic ignitions. Nestling an oil filter in among the exhaust pipes seems to me to be a particularly misguided idea. But if it makes you feel good, go right ahead.

Leave everything factory unless you are racing the car. Change the oil and filter every 2000 miles. Jim.

[Simon Whittley]

Many thanks for the useful replies. I should have added that this isn't a street engine, the car is used for hillclimbs / rallies (but not track racing) and I hope to participate in some of the long distance European rallies either later this year or next year, hence why I'm looking at options for better oil cooling and filtration.
I certainly wouldn't be looking to do this just because I fancy another wee project on the 356, I'm considering it because I don't want to be stuck thousands of miles from home with a knackered engine...

[Eric McKinley]

I have also used Rons kit on my engine, did some research and decided this was the best option for my use.

[Craig Richter]

If you have a warmed-up street motor you enjoy pushing, but especially if you're actually racing, a full-flow system may save you thousands of $ in parts when something does blow.