Porsche 356 Exhaust

[Gary Cox]

cut and weld, or as alternative, line the inside surface of the larger clamp with a strip of shim stock...

[Eric McKinley]

Thanks Gary,

Ideally I am hoping that the hangers are produced in the smaller diameter, I have had no luck researching this though.

The final alternative would be to cut and weld, however it is looking likely at this stage.

[Eric McKinley]

Yesterday was a big day, the engine was going back in after a 5 years of staring into a large hole.

I am not sure how long it has been since this car moved under its own power however it must be a decade if not more.

This was not a job I was looking forward to, I recruited a friend with a sound knowledge of working on old cars, how hard can it be.

I suppose it is like any job, the right tools make it easier, I didn't have a lift but i did have a platform which I placed the engine on, this can be raised and lowered, so everything had to be done from the ground and there isn't much room in the engine bay or under the car to work.

We managed to shoe horn it into place with no damage which was great, getting the horns over the transaxle whilst getting the generator nut to clear the rear shelf was difficult, a bit of pulling and pushing and eventually it clicked into place.

Lining the bolts up was another challenge, Ab's helper bolts worked great for the top 2 bolts, having problems tightening the stater motor bolt, just cant seem to get the spanner in there to tighten it, I will come back to that another time.

Not a job I would want to perform any time soon.

I placed the exhaust on the car, a SS stock one which was made by Turbo Thomas in the UK, I believed I may have problems fitting the exhaust due to clearance.On the bench it appeared to sit very high near the rear tin, however once the engine was in the exhaust slid into place on the heat exchangers and the engine, no adjustment required at all, a few taps with a rubber mallet sent it home, remflex gaskets used and torqued. The tailpipes come through the cut outs at just the right length without the rear bumper. I have longer tailpipes when I run with the rear bumper. Looking forward to hearing the exhaust note. The brackets which connect to the exhaust and the tail pipes I still have to cut and weld.

A question I do have which I am hoping someone can refresh my memory on, I disconnected the clevis clip on the clutch and cannot remember which hole it goes back into, there are 2 holes on the part, I have placed it in the lower hole at present, am I correct and what is the purpose of the second hole.

I have read the workshop manual but cannot see any reference to the 2 holes.

[Eric McKinley]

Picture flipped for some reason.

[Doug McDonnell]

Eric it is time to start that Puppy up and take your first spin!! And to answer your question. Put the clutch clevis pin back in the top hole where you had it before. The original arm only had one hole.

[Neil Bardsley]

Looks great good luck!

[Vic Skirmants]

"original arm only had one hole."
But the 716 and early 741 had a shorter arm. So the hole was at the effective length as the later arm's lower hole.

[Doug McDonnell]

Thanks for the clarification Vic.