Death by Transaxle

[gregg hake]

Hi...As Rosanne Rosanna Danna used to say back in the 70's, "Its always Somethin' " !

As I tried to install my newly rebuilt engine 6 months ago, I discovered a problem with my transaxle that required it be removed (undoing all the pristine work I did on the underside of my car...brakes, wireing, brake lines, etc). After months of getting all of that figured out, I got the transaxle back in this weekend, only to notice the longer studs that hold the clutch cable retaining bracket are in the wrong place.

My question is this: 1. Can the longer studs and the shorter studs be EASILY removed and swapped places so I don't have to remove the tranny again and also replace the paper gasket?

Or 2. Can I just remove the nuts holding the tranny housing cover (probably having to replace the paper gasket/sealant), turn it counter clockwise until the studs for the clutch cable retaining bracket are in the proper location ?

Obviously, I am trying to do this in the simplest way possible before I lose my mind and patience on this project.

Thanks,
Gregg

[Ron LaDow]

Gregg,
Depends on what thread-locker the assembler used; I'd contact them and ask.

[gregg hake]

Thanks, Ron. So if the studs that attach the sheet metal are secured with "Red", can I just remove the nuts on the housing cover and spin it around counterclockwise?

Gregg

[Joris Koning]

It appears from your picture that you have the bracket for the Bowden tube installed wrong

[Martin Bruechle]

Try double jam nut and unscrew them, might need a thinner nut and thin wrench on the inner nut.

[gregg hake]

"It appears from your picture that you have the bracket for the Bowden tube installed wrong" I put that on to show that the longer studs were in the wrong place, thus my question on the best way to move the long studs to the correct position.
"Try double jam nut and unscrew them, might need a thinner nut and thin wrench on the inner nut." I will try this to see if I can loosen them.

Thanks for the input, guys.

[Vic Skirmants]

Yes; pull the longer studs and the appropriate shorter ones. Should not be difficult. Then install in the correct location.

[Martin Benade]

If thread locker was used, a fairly moderate amount of heat from a propane torch will release it, you can probably even save the paint on the axle tube retainer if you are careful.

[Vic Skirmants]

Don't see any reason someone would have used thread-locker. The studs are probably as installed at Porsche, so will unscrew easily.

[Ron LaDow]

Don't see any reason someone would have used thread-locker. The studs are probably as installed at Porsche, so will unscrew easily.

Vic, I've got a 'long' and a 'short' stud, obviously only one fastening it. The car's pretty damn original, but getting that short stud out is gonna have to wait until the trans comes out.
You know the story: Entirely too much is just enough! Why use blue when that red bottle is right over there?

[Martin Benade]

Ron, you never applied a little heat to thread locker? It releases quite easily. We do a lot of Honda timing belts and their crank pulley bolt is lock-tited. A large impact gun will not remove it cold, but minimal heat releases it.

[gregg hake]

Mission accomplished. I had to remove the axle tube sheet metal before I could get the small studs off...there is just not enough room to get 2 nuts and a skinny wrench in there...but I did rotate the longs with the shorts and get it all back together successfully.

After an entire day, I am back to where I was yesterday !

Thanks guys.

[Vic Skirmants]

So who was the turkey that installed that side cover wrong??

[gregg hake]

The guy who installed it wrong is an under the radar, local guy who does mostly VW trannys (can I legally say "Tranny" anymore in todays politically correct climate?) He has a superb reputation with the VW community and I have found some Porsche guys who vouched for him also. He has been doing it forever and plans on retiring soon.
Back story...I initially got a quote for 7000 dollars to rebuild this transmission from a local, well respected Porsche shop after they "inspected" it. I had taken it in because it wouldn't go into 2nd and 4th when bench testing it but he never even checked it to see why that was occurring. When I asked why he felt it needed a total rebuild, he got verbally abusive and I went and picked up the transmission. One thing helpful he told me, though, before the poop flinging started was that the diff housing was cracked.
I called you, Vic, and bought a diff housing and I put that in myself, but I wasn't about to try to adjust the ring and pinion backlash so I found this guy (got some recommendations) and took it in.
He adjusted the backlash, and then he was nice enough to also pull out the gearing with me on a Sunday...and it appeared that the transmission was nearly new on the inside. There was also evidence that the transaxle had blown up for the previous owner ( gouging on the inner case) but that was before I bought it 20 some years ago.
Soooo, I am going to just blame the side cover on me overall, since I didn't catch it (it is my first). And I am willing to give him the benefit of the doubt since he isn't doing 356's everyday...and he charged me 200 dollars as opposed to 7000 bucks...and was nice enough to take time out of his weekend to go through my transaxle with me, showing me its condition and how it works.

As far as the 7000 dollar "well respected" shop, I could be a jerk, but he really does have a great reputation by everyone I have talked to, so I am assuming I am the exception.

They say that you learn something when you make a mistakes...I think I am getting tired of learning stuff!!!