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 Post subject: Oil Temperature sender
PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2018 2:37 pm 
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Location: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Happy Holidays All: I received a Porsche Newsletter today which contained Porsche related gift ideas, etc. It also had parts lists for various models. It listed a "Remote Thermometer Transmitter" part number 61610780502 for a 1963B (T6). My original oil temperature sender broke years ago. I have tried replacing it with various used senders but none have seemed to work. They have all caused the dash gauge to indicate at an incorrect high temperature - into the red zone - when I know the oil temperature is maybe 220 degrees or so (dip stick gauge). I am wondering whether the referenced part might correct my problem. Trying to avoid taking the gauge cluster out and sending it off for recalibration with a new sender.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2018 5:17 pm 
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Jim, there was a change in 'polarity' (I think) for the senders some time back; the tech improved and thereby changed.
I would call whoever is offering the sender and ask them whether is it applicable for use with an original gauge.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2018 6:40 pm 
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Recently a new sender has be made by Porsche Classic. It's sold thru the Porsche dealer system or here: https://www.stoddard.com/61610780502.html.html or here https://sierramadrecollection.com/Oil-T ... 21770.html As you can see, it has a spade connection like the 356C, it's only 6 volt and the top has a black plastic piece (instead of white ceramic). At least with this one you won't have to have your instrument re-calibrated to use an aftermarket VDO little one (probably for about the same $$$ as buying this new sender which is a "plug & play").

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2018 8:48 pm 
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I would invest in a decade resistance box and test the gauge for range on specific resistance then measure the sender resistance to see if it is compatible. A decade box can be used for many tests if you can learn how to use one. Not expensive any more. Try Amazon, no need for an expensive one as you are going to work in the 200 ohm range. Maybe $30 at most. Let me know what resistance you find and I may have a used one that is compatible.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2018 6:16 pm 
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Thanks all for the responses. Brad, I am a big fan of 'Plug & Play'. My goal is to source a sender unit which I can simply install in my car and get a reasonably accurate temp reading with my original temp gauge in the instrument cluster. I hate enduring the white knuckles experience of driving my car and watching the temp gauge move upward into the red zone, even when I am reasonably confident the actual temp is within normal range. If 616.107.805.02 gets me where I want to go, then I'll bite the bullet (pricey at $250 or so) and take that path. I have some email inquiries out to Stoddard, Pelican and Sierra Madre, each carrying this sender, in an attempt to clarify the application to my situation. Thanks again.
Jim

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 12:01 pm 
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I wish this part was available a year ago when i had to replace a leaking sender with a new VDO one that required R/R the gauge and sending it to North Hollywood for re-calibration. Total cost $250.
David


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2018 2:05 pm 
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I still have two old temperature senders in my desk draw. Let me know if you are interested. We test our senders at more than one temperature and have a ohm range that they need to function in to operate properly. Give me a call if you are interested in one. In light of the electronics in you car being over 53 years old, I think it would be prudent to have one of the California speedometer services sell you a new unit and calibrate the gauge to match. Ask to have push on connectors installed on the gauge rather than bullet connectors. The push on terminal is much stronger. al zim 2018/12/26 800.356.2964

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2018 6:05 pm 
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Al Zim wrote:
I still have two old temperature senders in my desk draw. Let me know if you are interested. We test our senders at m Ask to have push on connectors installed on the gauge rather than bullet connectors. The push on terminal is much stronger. al zim 2018/12/26 800.356.2964


I am dubious of this claim unless it is a perceived one. Can anyone suggest or know of a site that states/explains such a claim with test data? The bullet connectors once used by Porsche needed to be soldered to the wire and once installed were difficult to remove relying both on friction and the solder joint to retain the wire. There are many types of "push on" electrical connectors, but the ones most used by Porsche were were of the male/female spade variety. These were non-insulated, crimped and the tails of the connector formed around the wire. An elastomer boot was then installed over the connection with a special pliers which when I tried to purchase them about 20 years ago, cost $200. In this regard, the distributor wire from coil to distributor that you purchase from the usual vendors is not correct because heat shrink tubing is used. Pebble Beach aficionados please note if you are building the maximum point car.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2018 9:36 am 
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Ab: I have had gauges rebuilt with push on terminals and not experienced any problems. The connection on the back of the gauge is very sturdy! Since production of the 911/2 push on terminals have predominated the electrical connections. VW started using the connection is 1961. This leads me to conclude that your concerns regarding the comparative resistance of the wire attachments methods did not concern Porsche and VW. al zim

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2018 7:30 pm 
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The gauges are just indicators. These are 50/60 year old cars, not a space ship. ……………...Jim.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2018 11:42 pm 
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Call North Hollywood they'll help you troubleshoot it...


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2019 7:52 pm 
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I bit the bullet (price wise) and purchased the oil temperature sender #616-107-805-02, referenced by Brad above, from one of the vendors. The new sender arrived today and I attempted to install it. Problem! The threads on the new sender would not engage. I did not force it as I did not want to cross-thread. I took both the old sender and the new one to my local Ace Hardware to experiment with metric nuts and fitment. I found that a metric nut M14-1.50 fine pitch thread fit the old sender but not the new one. The only nut I could find that somewhat fit the new sender was a 9/16 SAE nut, but the fit was sloppy. Does anyone know the correct threading for an original oil temperature sender used in my 1963 T6 Normal B Coupe? Other suggestions? A life with an old Porsche is never easy. Thanks.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2019 12:07 pm 
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Jim Beam wrote:
...Does anyone know the correct threading for an original oil temperature sender used in my 1963 T6 Normal B Coupe? ...

Jim,
My metric thread gauge indicates the sender thread is indeed M14x 1.5 on a VDO 250 deg C sender stamp dated
7 62.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2019 12:31 pm 
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Miguel Antonetti wrote:
Call North Hollywood they'll help you troubleshoot it...

I did this last year. Sent them my gauge and they provided a new sender calibrated for my car. Took 2 weeks. Works great!

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2019 12:38 pm 
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I believe Jim has made the most logical post...the gauges are there to give general indications, not super-precise readings. Coupled with the age of these cars/ instruments, owners should not become panicked by readings that seem a bit off. It is wonderful that some of our vendors can provide great service and upgrades but we shouldn't become unduly upset by variations between cars, engines, etc.
Of course, you always want the red and green , (electric and oil pressure), lights to be working, as these indicate problems that require immediate correction...more so, the oil pressure indicator.

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