front lid back-up release mechanism

[Adrian Rendle]

i remember reading somewhere that there should be a hole which would enable the front lid to be opened in the event that the stock release wire breaks. There's 3 holes in the area where i think it might be, see pic :the hole in the new inner wheelarch, the little hole clearly visible towards the bottom of the pic (i think that's for an earth point), and the hole in between (just forward of the tube that goes to the headlight bucket), barely visible in my pic.

Is this "emergency release" hole any of these? If not, does anyone have a pic of where it should go; was there any mechanism that went with it? (this is for a T5, converted to RHD) or , was it a question of coming up with one's own bent bit of wire to hook onto the latch mechanism?

[David Jones]

Adrian, common fix is to attach a piece of braided wire (stainless is good) to the hood latch mechanism and run it out under the left wing with a loop on the end. If the hood release breaks just go under the wing and pull and you're in. Unless you have a "C" car then if the hood release breaks the hood automatically opens. Do not think you can get in if you do not have a wire attached because you will never make it past the spare with a fish tape or a coat hangar.

[Tim Brillon]

David, can you explain what the "wing" is or post a picture? I need to add this secondary wire.

[Jon Schmid]

Hi Tim, Wing = fender. As for Adrian's question about a mechanism being supplied, the answer is "no." The original Driver's Manual that I have for my B-T5 Roadster describes using what is basically a glorified coat hanger bent to access the latch. As has been described elsewhere, what I (and several of my friends) have done is run a sheathed stainless steel cable through a hole in the release and knot a large fender washer on the other end outside the fender opening. Very simple and very effective.

[Adrian Rendle]

thanks all, but are any of the holes in my pic the designated hole to insert the "coat hanger".....i suppose, i could rig up a permanent Bowden cable with a T-handle to grab hold of, located in the wheelarch

[Doug McDonnell]

See workshop manual

[Kevin Wills]

Safety wire works really well too. I put a finger loop in the end and twisted that. Then twisted the latch side. Last, just bent a 90 and stuck the end through the hole and covered it with some black putty. Only have a picture of the latch side.