How to neutralize paint

[Robert Thiemrodt]

I have a barn find which I am trying to treat rusted area's to neutralize them. I will not be painting or sanding these area's, as I am wanting to keep the car original. What is the product to use that will remove the rust, leaving me with a bare metal/blackish appearance? Porsport was advertising a 911 on our forums. They advertised that they neutralized the rust area's on their car. I reached out to them, but to no avail. Any suggestions appreciated. And I've tried vinegar, but that seems to be a swing and a miss.

[Wes Bender]

Your local hardware store will have rust neutralizer. If you need a large quantity, try:
https://www.theruststore.com/Rust-Conve ... _QQAvD_BwE

[David Jones]

Loctite extend is another product.

[Alan Hall]

Talk to your local body shop supply place, they will probably recommend a product. Back in the day I think the best product was called "rust-mort". These products leave, I think, an iron phosphate/latex surface which will have some protection but will not last long, it more a surface that is intended to be painted over.

[David Green]

Look at Eastwood's Rust Converter. I've used their products successfully and think it will do what you want.
David

[John Brooks]

I just tried Evaporust on a fuel sender. First time I have used it. The sender was terrible and not working. 24 hours later the rust was gone, the pits remained, but It got all the oxides off, inside and out, the green corrosion on the wiper is gone and it works again. I used to disassemble the senders , but this worked very well. The cork even became flexable again.

You might try a towel soaked with it and cover the heavy areas,with plastic on the heavy spots. Tractor supply or hardware store has the stuff in gallons.

[Joris Koning]

Evaporust is one of the few products in this hobby I have used that lives up to all the hype. Truly amazing stuff

[Robert Thiemrodt]

Look at Eastwood's Rust Converter. I've used their products successfully and think it will do what you want.
David

Eastwood’s is good, I’ve tried it. Problem is I’m doing large sections of under carriage and wheel wells. I think I need something with a gel like base to it, so it will cling to rust and absorb. Pure liquid wants to run off and evaporate before getting the job done.

[Dan Epperly]

Look at Eastwood's Rust Converter. I've used their products successfully and think it will do what you want.
David

Eastwood’s is good, I’ve tried it. Problem is I’m doing large sections of under carriage and wheel wells. I think I need something with a gel like base to it, so it will cling to rust and absorb. Pure liquid wants to run off and evaporate before getting the job done.

Then you want naval jelly. It works better if you take plastic sheeting from like Home Depot and cover the Gel with it so the Gel doesn't evaporate fast. Let it sit over night.

[Bruce Smith]

You may want to look into Gibbs lubricant. Hot rod guys use this on sheet metal bodies to prevent bare metal corrosion. You can find info on line. I've used this for a few years. It's quite different from lubricants like WD40 as it doesn't evaporate over time. It won't dissolve or remove rust like phosphoric acid (e.g. Eastwood Rust Converter) or chelation (e.g. Evapo Rust) but will penetrate through rust to the bare metal. You will want to wire brush all loose rust but then simply brush or spray it on, wipe excess, and then leave it alone. The lacquer repaint on my '60 ivory cab is over 40 years old. It has has started to craze/crack and lift in spots revealing bare metal. It's a great patina look and I'm preserving it as long as I can with Gibbs.

[Martin Bruechle]

Brush, spray, or sponge motor oil on the infected areas, thats a effective hillbilly method.