Oil leak assistance ideas

[Mark Roth]

Well,
Some progress, sort of.
The noise was caused by a rag used by my now prior mechanic that got sucked into the fan. That was removed. The oil at the junction is a leak near the oil cooler. See below. The crankcase pressure was tested and seems ok. Still trying to figure out why oil is being spit into the dipstick tube and coming out the dipstick. First things first -

My 64C may have a crack in the crankcase. We have detected an oil leak at the top of the crankcase and need to determine the source. The new mechanic (PC correct - German named Hans) here in Houston is reluctant to pull the engine if the cause of the leak is a crack rather than the oil cooler or seals. I had put an aluminum oil cooler in many years ago. The crankcase was previously welded by Al Zim in 2000 and Zim says that it can’t be done again. In any case, there is no one here in Houston who can do the welding work and my mechanic would rather start with an intact case instead. So, I may be looking for a C case in excellent condition. I don’t have a matching numbers car so maybe a later B case would be just as good? The third piece is in the C series so I would prefer to have a C case but condition is the most important attribute.
WHAT YEAR/NUMBER CASE WILL WORK?

The mechanic wants me to be able to source a good crankcase before he pulls the engine so please let me know if you have one and how much it would cost delivered to zip 77027.

Thanks a bunch

[C J Murray]

A late B will work.

[Paul Hatfield]

Mark-
There is a fiberous seal in the distributor, inside the distributor shaft- below the rotor. If this goes missing, the oil moves all the way up that shaft, all over the inside of the distributor, and leaks out the bottom of the distributor where you show oil on your engine. I had this happen to me. It can be a large leak, depending on revs. Just take the distributor cap off and look to see if it is messy with oil in there. It is an odd problem, easy to fix, but wow can it make a mess.

[Wes Bender]

Not being critical of Al Zim, but you might call Walt at Competition Engineering in California and ask about welding the previously repaired case.

I find it a little unusual that your new mechanic doesn't want to remove the engine until you find a new case. I would remove it if only to confirm the exact location of the leak. You can't fix something until you know for sure what is broken.

just my $.02,
Wes

[Mark Roth]

The mechanic sent me a video of the leak. Not coming from the distributor. How can I post that?

CJ - some cases just have numbers, not years. Anyone have information on what case numbers would work? I have seen some on ebay but they look like they have been under water.

Wes - the situation is that what if it is a crack? Then what with the engine out? He doesn't want the car and engine sitting around the shop with no solution. If I had a case available, we could go forward. Better to transport the entire car somewhere if he can't repair it. He doesn't want me to pay for R&R of the engine for something he couldn't repair.

[C J Murray]

Hi Mark,
There should be casting dates on the cases. The later versions have the strengthening ribs on the flywheel side. I think that started in 1962 but maybe Vic will chime in. He knows all that stuff. Even earlier cases will take the parts from your engine but you definitely don't want a small oil pump engine.
Cliff

[David Jones]

Mark, the reality is that if your mechanic has to rebuild your engine with a new case then you may be better off buying another engine already built up and ready to go. If it is a used engine it should be a lot cheaper than rebuilding yours. You could also then pursue a rebuild of yours and then sell one of them when done and recoup your costs or at least some of them while still being able to drive the car.

[Neil Bardsley]

I can't contribute technically but I don't understand why someone would expect a new case to be supplied before knowing it's the issue? Seems like the cart is in front of the horse? I think I could drop the engine and take the fan housing off and cooler in about 3 hours (I'm not skilled)?

[Wes Bender]

Must be a darned good mechanic to be able to make that kind of demand. If you buy an engine case and then the leak turns out to be cooler seals, will he buy the case from you? Maybe plus 20% for your trouble?

[Charles H Jacobus]

When I first got my '65C, I had the same problem. There was oil all over the metal and side insulation. It turned out to be sheet metal screws that attach the sheet metal to the engine. Three screws loose or missing.

Chuck

[Mark Roth]

Just to be clear, I don't need the case right now. Just want to know that one is available if needed. Would know in a week or so. Also, as I mentioned, the engine was rebuilt 12,000 miles ago so everything but the case should be in great shape. They rechecked the leak test and rigged up a gauge on the oil filler to measure the crankcase pressure. Seemed ok. If they have to break down the engine, will reseat the rings for sure. Will mention the screws to the head.

[Mark Roth]

Will a 912 case work?

[Martin Benade]

I would think Adam could give you a choice of maybe 30 correct type cases. Pretty sure he has a huge collection of them, all for sale. The third piece is interchangeable separately, but if I was doing it I would try to get all three pieces that originally came together. I believe that gives the most precise alignment of the #4 bearing, although a mismatched cover is acceptable.

[Mark Roth]

I am now in contact with Adam.

[C J Murray]

Will a 912 case work?

Yes but the studs need changing for a 356 third piece.