Purchasing first 356

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Harry Fahnestock
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Purchasing first 356

#1 Post by Harry Fahnestock »

I am purchasing my first 356 (1963 356B T6) and having a certified Porsche mechanic inspecting it before closing the deal. The car had two previous owners but the current owner said there were no papers, manuals etc. Does this devalue the car? This will be a driver car and likely will remain in the family as such. In other words we will not be showing it but I do want to be certain the car is all original (will have inspector check matching numbers). How important is not having any of the documents? Any other suggestions?

Thank you
Harry
'Ruby' 65' 356C

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Mike Wilson
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Re: Purchasing first 356

#2 Post by Mike Wilson »

Although I think it would be nice to have certain documents like service/repair history, drivers manual and repair manuals, the more important info is the current condition of the car and if it is numbers-matching. The car also needs to be inspected for any major rust and/or structural issues. It would be great to have a tool kit (the '63 is hard to come by), a drivers manual and a jack.

My car, also a '63 B coupe, came with very little service/repair info and a well-used drivers manual. The owner prior to the previous one had a ton of books and a workshop manual which he sold to me at bargain-basement prices. Over time, I have collected even more manuals and books.

Please post your location in your profile. I'm sure that there will be fellow 356 owners in your area that will be willing to help and offer advice.

Mike
Mike Wilson
Lomita, CA
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Mike Wilson
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Re: Purchasing first 356

#3 Post by Mike Wilson »

Harry, let me add that you should definitely ask the curent owner of the car if they have a tool kit, manuals, work history, etc. It could be a negotiable factor in the price.

Mike
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David Jones
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Re: Purchasing first 356

#4 Post by David Jones »

Harry check the car Vin # in the registry data base and see if it has any history and if you are not paranoid like some about having the vin# be out there on the forum post it and see if anyone has information on it. If it was for instance 216379 I could tell you how I found it and where it went when I sold it.
If I had known I would live this long I would have pushed the envelope a little harder.
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George Hussey
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Re: Purchasing first 356

#5 Post by George Hussey »

not devalue, but if you had all of the original stuff, it would up the value. The car should stand for itself without paperwork.
George Hussey

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Harry Fahnestock
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Re: Purchasing first 356

#6 Post by Harry Fahnestock »

Thank you all! I live in Reno, Nevada and it is in my profile. My email is thesodfather@western and my phone number is (775) 771-1007. I am in Reno right now and will be going to Sacramento on Monday to be with the mechanic during his inspection so I don't have the chassis number. The VIN is 212793.
Two other questions I have since I can't find a free manual online (I will purchase all available manuals etc. when I am certain this is the car I will purchase) are;
1. There is only the bottom lever on the vent/heater control on dash. I did find an online parts manual and some views show one bottom lever and another shows two. My car only has the lower lever?
2. Below the ignition key on the bottom of the dash panel is a round chrome collar, maybe ½ to ¾", and it looks as though there would be a knob or switch there. Can any one tell me what it is for. This is the first forum I have ever been on so bare with me. Thank you.
'Ruby' 65' 356C

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Doug McDonnell
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Re: Purchasing first 356

#7 Post by Doug McDonnell »

It was a Ruby Red /red driver in 2003 Upper lever is present if optional heater or fresh air blower was installed.
Last edited by Doug McDonnell on Sat Nov 10, 2018 4:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1965 356C 2000 BMW 740i Sport 1967 Honda CL77 There is never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it over.

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Harry Fahnestock
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Re: Purchasing first 356

#8 Post by Harry Fahnestock »

It is still Ruby Red with Ruby red interior. It has been repainted.
'Ruby' 65' 356C

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David Jones
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Re: Purchasing first 356

#9 Post by David Jones »

Harry, the lever in the middle of the dash would only have both if it was delivered with an optional heater which is not that common. I think if I remember correctly the round chrome collar is the auxiliary power point for something like a map light or similar requiring 6 volt power.
If I had known I would live this long I would have pushed the envelope a little harder.
Cymru am byth
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Doug McDonnell
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Re: Purchasing first 356

#10 Post by Doug McDonnell »

Correct David It is socket for accessory light: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=45519&hilit=dash+plug+for+light
1965 356C 2000 BMW 740i Sport 1967 Honda CL77 There is never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it over.

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Richard Shilling
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Re: Purchasing first 356

#11 Post by Richard Shilling »

Rule No. 1. For a new 356 owner who has no history with 356's do not hesitate to ask any questions of this group. Even if you think it's a "dumb" question - ask. This registry is a nice friendly bunch who want to help.

The alleged heating system on a 356 is somewhat primitive. Yours has one lever that closes the flaps on the air outlet boxes where the cooling air from the engine exits and opens the heater valve so the air that cooled the engine goes into the passenger compartment. This is all controlled by wires that are pulled by the lever and through a system of levers and rods opens and closes the flaps and valves, have the mechanic check them. Inside the passenger compartment there are two slides located on the body outside the seats. Slide forward for defrost, back to "heat" the passenger compartment. When the engine is at full operating temperature you will feel a puff of warm air, but compared to today's heating systems it's not very effective.

Have the mechanic check that when the gas pedal is all the way down, the carbs are held fully open by the linkage. The linkage is so convoluted that 356's with carbs that don't open all the way are very common and rob a lot of power.

Good luck and keep us posted. We love to follow these stories.
Richard Shilling
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Ron LaDow
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Re: Purchasing first 356

#12 Post by Ron LaDow »

Harry Fahnestock wrote:I am in Reno right now and will be going to Sacramento on Monday to be with the mechanic during his inspection so I don't have the chassis number. The VIN is 212793.
The chassis number is the VIN, unless you found a car registered in CA early enough that the DMV used the engine number, and you don't want that.
Check that the VIN on the title matches the chassis number, not the engine number; mo betta.
Ron LaDow
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Doug McDonnell
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Re: Purchasing first 356

#13 Post by Doug McDonnell »

Welcome to the club. Richard is correct about the heater but that lever is in front of the shifter. The dash lever you are referring to controls the fresh air horns in the front compartment. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=46779&hilit=fresh+air
1965 356C 2000 BMW 740i Sport 1967 Honda CL77 There is never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it over.

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Mike Wilson
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Re: Purchasing first 356

#14 Post by Mike Wilson »

The '63 B's have a black knob forward of the shifter to open/close the flapper boxes and heater cans. The lower lever on the dash directs the air.

Mike
Mike Wilson
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Harry Fahnestock
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Re: Purchasing first 356

#15 Post by Harry Fahnestock »

Okay, I have don
e about as much research as I can on this car. I have read and have been told that I should be very suspicious and cautious with going through with this purchase. First of all it is at a consignment dealer in Sacramento - nice showroom and high end autos. They know little about 356's. The car is listed stating "the car has been repainted in it's original color" and the paint job looks very nice. This is what I am concerned about though. The listing also states "The original engine has been replaced with what is believed to be a 1966 912 engine." My question is why was the engine replaced? When and where was it replaced? Is it in fact a Super 90 engine (I know nothing about the different engines - but I am learning!? There is apparently no paperwork or documentation available for the car - another big question mark. Another thing one of our very helpful members pointed out is that the tachometer redlines from 4500s to 5000 RPM. He feels strongly that the proper tachometer for a Super 90 redlines at 5000 to 5500 RPM. The car shows normal wear and tear, better shape than I expected for this car. There is an oil leak that shows build up along a front section of the pan. I have been told that this may or may not be a big deal. I am having the car inspected at a well know auto repair store with excellent reviews in Sacramento on Monday and I will be present. Hopefully they can shed some light on these questions and any more they may discover. What I am afraid of is that I will come away with a satisfactory report but won't get the engine authentication, wrong tachometer, matching numbers etc.issues answered. Don't want to spend this kind of money on a 'mystery' car. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Also I have requested from the dealer to contact the owner and have him call me but no dice so far.
'Ruby' 65' 356C

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