The Official 356Talk Forum

I’ve read in some threads that I should only use an OEM switch. I have ordered one.

If I found a 2 wire vw switch locally and cheap, could I use that just to get by over the weekend? I’m finally doing some test driving again and may not get another clear weekend.

By that I mean, it’s only rained twice this year. Once for 38 days and again for 44 days! Crazy!

Thanks,
Harold

Just a guess but I'd say as long as the thread pitch is the same, you could use it.
If I'm totally wrong, I'm sure someone will soon correct me.

Mike

There is a way to greatly improve the function of your brake lights so that people behind you get much more warning.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=37532&hilit=mechani ... ght+switch

Very good idea, Cliff. No lag in activating the brake lights. I'd also suggest a third brake light. I have one on my coupe.

Mike

+1 … mechanical switch AND 3rd brake light!

I've had to replace the hydraulic brake light switches on both my 356A and my 911. But, I've also had to change the mechanical switch on my Boxster which was much more difficult.

Anything can fail, I figure changing hydraulic brake light switches every 15 years is neither harder nor more expensive than engineering a mechanical solution.

Jim Alton wrote:I've had to replace the hydraulic brake light switches on both my 356A and my 911. But, I've also had to change the mechanical switch on my Boxster which was much more difficult.
Anything can fail, I figure changing hydraulic brake light switches every 15 years is neither harder nor more expensive than engineering a mechanical solution.

I'd agree, but the pressure switch seems to take a pretty agressive stomp on the pedal, and the mechanical one can be adjusted to come on much earlier.
Does anyone know if the VW part shorts at a lower pressure?

+1 on the mechanical brake switch upgrade described in the thread above. My original pressure switch was only illuminating at near full brake press and I wanted the brakes to light up similar to a modern car, with just a tap.

I used the 911 switch and fender washer setup from that thread. Been working great for a couple of years. Lots of adjustment options in how you position the bracket and the switch itself has adjustment. A very worthwhile upgrade.

Mines not as nicely set up as the one in the thread. Maybe someday I'll build a cleaner one.

Harold you are welcome to check it out sometime.

Ron LaDow wrote:

Jim Alton wrote:I've had to replace the hydraulic brake light switches on both my 356A and my 911. But, I've also had to change the mechanical switch on my Boxster which was much more difficult.
Anything can fail, I figure changing hydraulic brake light switches every 15 years is neither harder nor more expensive than engineering a mechanical solution.

I'd agree, but the pressure switch seems to take a pretty agressive stomp on the pedal, and the mechanical one can be adjusted to come on much earlier.
Does anyone know if the VW part shorts at a lower pressure?

Good question about the pressure differences Ron. Now I’m curious.

Before I made the modification I would occasionally hear screeching tires as I slowed to a stop waiting on an opportunity to make a left hand turn. Even when there was no screeching rubber I often saw shocked drivers and wiggling vehicles in my rear view mirror during a stop. Since the modification there is no screeching and rarely is anybody surprised that I am stopping. Regardless of what vehicle I am driving I always drag the brakes gently as soon as I think I might be stopping to give the driver behind a heads up but a hydraulic brake light switch doesn't give the warning.

And there was the time my wife and I were involved in an incident in Sacramento while sitting still on interstate 80. I doubt my hydraulic switch brake lights were activated but the driver should have seen all the cars stopped. Still, what if?