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 Post subject: Done sand blasting...
PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2018 7:40 pm 
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That nasty job is done.. But I had a few blow throughs where the rusted panel had thinned so much from the rust.. Not enough to replace full panels.
So is welding in patches the only solution or is there some cool trick that is much faster that I'm not aware of.. Somebody mentioned SEM Patch Panel Adhesive?? Not sure I'm sold on adhesive!!

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Bill

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61' 356 B T5
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2018 8:16 pm 
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Panel bonding adhesive is good stuff, but it just doesn't seem appropriate for a 356. Also if you are patching a hole, it will require an overlapping patch. This type of patch welded in would be considered poor quality. If you are doing a restoration, stick with the molten steel.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2018 10:30 pm 
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I'm no panel guy, either beating or welding, but I'd back Martin here. A bonded patch may well work, but it it was ever detected, the value of the car is probably reduced by some large amount. Even if you have no plans on selling it, it will be sold and there's no reason to save a penny now and lose $100 later.
Anyone remember Miami-Air and his riveted and bonded Conv. D? I'd hate to have been the one to jack up one corner and try to open a door.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2018 10:37 pm 
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A friend of mine owned a 59 Cab that had been structurally rebuilt with a huge number of medium-sized rivets. It was masterfully done, probably about as rigid as original, but it just wasn't right. It passed the jack test.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2018 11:42 pm 
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I looked at a friend's Speedster a few years ago, it had fiberglass floors, that he put in back in the 70s. Still there, still working, but you can bet the value of the car took a hit. So yes the only real answer is to weld in full panels or partial panels. The good thing about partial panels is you can many times leaves the Factory spot rivets and seams, so it looks pretty good when done.

When they re-did the floors on Speedster #1 that's what they did, little pieces, one at a time, but were able to save the seams on the Factory Floors. So it can be done well and it can be done right, just takes time and patience.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2018 7:58 am 
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Thanks All,
Yeah, I didn't even know about the Patch Panel Adhesive, but it sounded like a cop out way to do it..

Enjoy Your weekend,
I'm heading to Trapp Family Lodge for some All German car show today...

Bill

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2018 4:18 pm 
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Panel adhesive is use in many new cars construction the advantage is the ares will not rust were is is bonded. and will out last the car.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2018 5:26 pm 
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Although I wouldn't suggest gluing panels on any 356 due to the value of these cars, I did epoxy four new quarter panels from the trim strip down on my MGB over 30 years ago. MGBs were (and still are) cheap and all I cared about was getting it done fast since it was my daily driver, and I couldn't weld.

I used countersunk pop rivets and PC-7 epoxy from the local hardware store. This was years before modern adhesives specifically developed for the purpose. No problems at all after all these years. In fact, I'd forgotten that's how I repaired it until reading this thread! Just last week it won second place at my town's monthly car show. No one can tell it has glued on panels unless they look in the trunk where you can see the seam on the sides.

Ron, it was a shame Miami-Air chose this method for his D as we all told him at the time, but not because it wouldn't work, just because it's, well...not an MGB.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2018 6:43 pm 
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Thomas Sottile wrote:
Panel adhesive is use in many new cars construction the advantage is the ares will not rust were is is bonded. and will out last the car.


Body shops use it a lot, I was told by my body guy to put the new rockers on my truck with this stuff. The problem is you can get it at NAPA, for around $30, but you have to have a $300 gun to use it correctly, so not so great for your average guy. I welded them on the truck.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2018 7:05 pm 
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If you are in the business, the body shop supply place will easily give you the gun for free, I have probably 5 of them, for different brands. I have seen the glue work great, and I have seen it work not so great, and it is hard to tell which result you got unless it falls apart.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 09, 2018 6:03 am 
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Adam Wright wrote:
When they re-did the floors on Speedster #1 that's what they did, little pieces, one at a time, but were able to save the seams on the Factory Floors. So it can be done well and it can be done right, just takes time and patience.


A, will have to look that up. Have all the documentation on that restoration. The floors indeed needed work!

J.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 09, 2018 10:05 am 
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http://www.repairerdrivennews.com/2017/ ... dy-repair/

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 09, 2018 12:06 pm 
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Just an opinion, if the occupants legs were trapped due to deformation, an extra 6" of roof deformation due to the roof letting go probably didn't have much to do with the floor/leg area deformation. I would also like to see if the same accident with a welded roof would fare any better.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2018 9:14 am 
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Martin Benade wrote:
Panel bonding adhesive is good stuff, but it just doesn't seem appropriate for a 356. Also if you are patching a hole, it will require an overlapping patch. This type of patch welded in would be considered poor quality. If you are doing a restoration, stick with the molten steel.

Just re-reading this:
By "molten steel" do you mean something like this:
http://weldfabulous.com/bessey-lm-06-6o ... 48QAvD_BwE

Bill

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61' 356 B T5
65' 356 C T6
82' SC Targa
81 VW Westfalia with 2015 Forester Engine
BMW R50/2, 2BMW R90/6's, BMW R65, K1200RS


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