Restoration Prep Advice Needed

[J Warren]

Hey guys,
My son and I are prepping our 1957 Normal Coupe project to be taken to the body/paint soon. We have restored other cars in the past but this is our first Porsche. I apologize for the stupid questions up front ( we were all beginners at one point in our life right?). This is an Arizona car that sat in a garage since 1975. So while it has very little rust, all the rubber has dry rotted and rats have made it their home for years. The plan was to completely strip the car as the body guy was going to strip and refinish the bottom as well. It also has a few quarter sized areas in the battery box and under the drivers seat that need repaired. The engine has been removed, interior stripped, shredded wiring harness removed, brake and fuel system removed, etc...
It is going to be placed on a large chassis dolly and not be rotisseried. My plan was going to be to remove all of the front end leaving the upper and lower suspension arms/torsion bars in place. All other parts including shocks, steering box, stabilizer, anti roll bar,suspension arm link, stub axle, etc.... will be removed from the front end so that he can have full access for resto work. I didnt feel comfortable removing the torsion bars so felt leaving them in place via the suspension arms may be the right answer. I would love some guidance here as to the best way to approach prepping the front end for resto.

My plan was to remove everything from the tunnel ( wiring, gas lines, brake lines, etc..) especially as most of it was being replaced anyway.

The rear end has me a little perplexed. I have read the manual, multiple books and searched/read this forum. My plan was to remove the transmission/rear axles to allow him full access. (likely using the special made stand brackets from Stoddard for the 356).
I do not think the transmission needs any work except for new boots/fluid) With the transmission removal, do the rear torsion bars just fall out or will they remain in place? Do I leave them in place? Am I better off leaving the tranny in place in light of my lack of experience with these? I hoped to remove it, clean it up ( new axle boots etc) and reinstall it once the bottom of the car was done).

Any and all guidance, advice, tips, warnings, etc..... are greatly appreciated. This forum has made all the difference in our quest for answers and we would like to thank all of you in advance.
J

[Martin Benade]

The rear torsion bars and trailing arms can stay in place and will not want to jump out or be dangerous. Your plan with the front bars sounds good too. Some of the things in the tunnel such as the fuel line can remain, they are not that easy to get out and should still be fine on your unrusted car.

[Doug McDonnell]

As Martin said rear trailing arms can stay in place but I would renew the torsion bar bushings at some point. They are probably as dry as every other rubber piece.

[Mike Wilson]

Not to mention the parts that you will be painting and/or powder-coating, cad-plating, black zinc, etc.

Mike

[Martin Benade]

Good idea on the torsion bar rubber bushings. If the bar comes out with the spring plate, get it loosened but not removed from the plate. Then get the bar back in its original position. Then remove the spring plate. Upon reassembly it will be obvious what position it goes in, saving a tedious job of setting the bars from scratch. Its not that hard to do, but at least for me I was slow to grasp the concept of how to do it.

[Jim Liberty]

I remove everything. The trailing arms come off easily, 4 set screws with lock nuts. I also take off the spring plates. Before removal, scrbe the top edge on the body so you can find it again. As you pry the bars off, keep driving the torsion bars back into place, so the position does not change.

Do it this way, and you can refinish everything before re-installation. Every nut and bolt. The satisfaction is priceless. ..............................Jim

[J Warren]

I certainly do appreciate it guys. I am glad to know my approach at least makes some sense. These vehicles appear so simple when initially looked at but are surprisingly intricate. The last vehicle I restored was a 1965 Sunbeam Tiger with the original Ford 260. It did not require near the amount of thought and finesse that the 356 needs.

[Roy Smalley]

Good plan. If it were me given the trouble you are going through, while the transmission is out have it opened up and checked. Nothing as onerous as having a restored car and have to pull the transmission. Shouldn't be a stupid expensive thing and there are several noted transmissions folks around you can trust.

[Jim Liberty]

Roy, 100% correct advice. …………….Jim.

[Jens Hansen]

I'm in the same process as J Warren with my T6.

So far I have taken everything off the car so I can it dipped and then repaired. There are some placed there has had something done, but it wasn't done the right way!
I have had the car for +20 years and I can't live with it any longer, it has to be done now.
My consern is the fuel line. Is there a way of changing it? I can't find any information or part numbers!
Can anybody help me with it?
I don't trust an old pipe there has been there since 1962 ( or 1961 ).

Thanks in advance for any replies.

[Jim Liberty]

Here is what mine looks like this week. EVERYTHING off, and out. …………………….Jim.

[Jim Clement]

then you can have this !!!

[Jim Liberty]

Yes, but don't forget to paint the bolt heads Black. Or better yet, zinc oxide, as I will do. …………………..Jim.