Fresh Air Diverter Valves

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Paul Hatfield
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Fresh Air Diverter Valves

#1 Post by Paul Hatfield »

One of the things that I am replacing on Miss April (65 C Coupe) are the fresh air hoses under the dash. Wow, are those expensive at $500 a pair! Anyway, the worst one was on the drivers side and at one time was "repaired" with duct tape. Hmmm, duct tape on an actual duct! Anyway, I discovered I could not remove the T shaped rubber without removing the air diverter valve up front. Sounds simple, one nut in the fender and disconnect the cable. I have done this job before on my last car and don't recall anything magic. But, wow, that thing was really in there. I had to cut away the rubber on both sides of the "firewall" and then I could finally get the air diverter valve out.
Valve cleaned up nicely as shown below. By the way, I am convinced A5 means January of 1965 as that perfectly fits with the production of my car.
So the question: What is the proper technique for installation. Rubber T hose under the dash first? Lubricate both rubbers (including the one that faces down and towards the map pocket) and maybe some heat and then try to slide the air diverter valve back into place? This is a tight fit and I do not want to tear the rubber up.
Sly tricks appreciated.
Paul
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"Miss April"
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Mike Wilson
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Re: Fresh Air Diverter Valves

#2 Post by Mike Wilson »

Paul: I put the kick panel ruber in first, then the diverter valve then then Y-shaped rubber tube last.

Mike
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'63 B coupe

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Paul Hatfield
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Re: Fresh Air Diverter Valves

#3 Post by Paul Hatfield »

Thanks Mike. Did you use anything like liquid soap to assist with the install?
Glad you replied because I might have tried installing the part under the dash first and then pushed with the diverter valve.

If it tears in the process, my cry of %$#!@^ will be heard for mile!
Paul Hatfield
"Miss April"
http://www.enginesinback.com

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Doug McDonnell
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Re: Fresh Air Diverter Valves

#4 Post by Doug McDonnell »

I did it in the same order as Mike. I used a little smear of Ivory dish soap for lubrication. Helps to have a second pair of hands holding the diverter valve steady.
1965 356C 2000 BMW 740i Sport 1967 Honda CL77 There is never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it over.

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Paul Hatfield
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Re: Fresh Air Diverter Valves

#5 Post by Paul Hatfield »

Ah Ha! I knew it! Best done by a four-handed mechanic!
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Mike Wilson
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Re: Fresh Air Diverter Valves

#6 Post by Mike Wilson »

Paul: I use a vinyl/rubber dressing. I walk the diverter valve into the rubber until it is fully seated and you can insert the stud on the side into the hole. Once it is bolted in, then I insert the Y-shaped rubber. I'm trying to remember if I attach the cable before fully seating it as it is easier.

Mike
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Paul Hatfield
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Re: Fresh Air Diverter Valves

#7 Post by Paul Hatfield »

I fooled around with generator/fan belts this weekend but also got some time to clean up one air diverter valve. Still needs new seals on the inside. I plan on replacing the original foam seals with cork. I think that will be easier to cut and glue into place. It may be a couple of weeks before actual installation.
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Martin Benade
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Re: Fresh Air Diverter Valves

#8 Post by Martin Benade »

I would stick with foam, it can easily deform 3 or 4 mm to be able to seal, whereas under the light pressure of the valve mechanism, the cork will not give at all. A handy source of the foam is inside one of those $5 ratchet/socket sets, although I hesitate to admit I have one. (bought on a trip)
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JohnPierce
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Re: Fresh Air Diverter Valves

#9 Post by JohnPierce »

I used foam weatherstripping (about 3/4” wide x 5/16” thick) with adhesive on one side, which worked very well. Sold at Home Depot, Lowes, etc. I agree that you need some give in the foam to seal correctly.
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Martin Benade
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Re: Fresh Air Diverter Valves

#10 Post by Martin Benade »

Did you drill out the rivets and take the valves all apart, or do a tweezer job? I had searched unsuccessfully for tubular brass rivets.
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Re: Fresh Air Diverter Valves

#11 Post by JohnPierce »

Martin,

I did it both ways as I had 2 sets. Both ways are very doable to replace the foam. If you don't take out the rivets you need long tweezers. Check out my build:

http://www.abcgt.com/forum/14-356-Resto ... &start=978


HTH.

JP
1963 B T6 Project

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