Insurance Damage Appraisal

[Mark Sabbann]

I recently sustained a small bit of vandalism to the right front fender of my '64 SC. Someone took a rock about the size of a softball and planted it next to the gas door, dented the fender, abraded the paint, chipped the corner of the gas door and grazed the paint on the crown of the hood slightly. I just received my appraisal and offer it for comment. I won't reveal the insurer at this point but when the appraiser called and said something to the effect that 'he was excited to see a 1964 Porsche', I paused...hmmm, what will this guy know about a car like this if he's never seen one. I am dubious about the time allowed to R&I the wiper nozzles, the rocker moldings, the hood weatherstrip (no new one) and the windshield with a new gasket without addressing the headliner etc. I pointed out to the appraiser that the gaps on these cars were leaded and that maybe the edge of the hood opening may need repair of that type. I have in mind a shop with a good reputation for their work and concern about details on cars of equivalent vintage and quality (Mercedes) but haven't gotten there yet. Comments?

[C J Murray]

Take the car to the shop of YOUR choice and let them work it out with the insurance company. There are too many variables involved and usually there is quite a bit of back and forth and often there are supplemental damage claims.

[David Jones]

Mark, after I went off roading avoiding a deer collision my appraiser who was a local person contracted by Hagerty who came up with an estimate which I knew was ridiculously low as I also knew the chassis was out of whack. I called Hagerty after I got the estimate and they told me that they had to have something to work off and the shop estimate would be the one that determined to final cost. Indeed the final cost will be closer to 3 times the appraised amount and Hagerty has been excellent to work with and get the car back to being to where it was before the off roading.

[Harold Singh]

Take the car to the shop of YOUR choice and let them work it out with the insurance company. There are too many variables involved and usually there is quite a bit of back and forth and often there are supplemental damage claims.

CJ is right on here. Even if the company intends to find all of the damage, they are ill equipped to do so in the field. A shop will clarify the best way to repair it to preloss condition. As David mentioned in his example, Hagerty is great to work with and the appraisal is just a starting point. Measurements, type of damage, disassembly, product selection for repair and refinish materials, all impact what it really costs and depends on the shop to specify.

[David Campbell]

Great advice to all, but let me remind everyone to always discuss the repair shop's insurance BEFORE you sign the agreement. An acquaintance had his Boxster in for collision damage. Just before it was to be completed they rolled it outside. Someone forgot and a huge thunderstorm came in fast with plenty of hail. His insurance company said fine, we'll fix it but they imposed the deductible for the second claim.

The repair shop did not have Garage Keepers Legal Liability (primary) and posted their release in the work order and signs around the shop. I understand most restoration shops cannot afford GKLL insurance, but you need to know what you are signing should something happen.

[Jay Wiener]

get a lawyer

[Mark Sabbann]

All good advice, Thanks!

[Martin Benade]

If your car is extremely nice you should be able to insist on a complete repaint of the body, as there are no parting lines to stop the painting. His estimate has "blend refinish" for this reason. They probably would not agree to include the doors and engine lid though, so it is up to the shop to color match well enough that this doesn't become a worse problem than having a nearly invisible blend. If they insist, at least try to get the whole front done, blended on both rockers where it should barely show.

[Harold Singh]

If your car is extremely nice you should be able to insist on a complete repaint of the body, as there are no parting lines to stop the painting. His estimate has "blend refinish" for this reason. They probably would not agree to include the doors and engine lid though, so it is up to the shop to color match well enough that this doesn't become a worse problem than having a nearly invisible blend. If they insist, at least try to get the whole front done, blended on both rockers where it should barely show.

Martin, Good point. I was also curious if the white was base clear or single stage urethane. That might impact the repair process as well. Also a small area with the right prep and adhesion promoter (I like DuPont 222s) followed with urethane or clear coat blender will make it nearly impossible for the blend to ever fail.

Mark, this is another item for the shop to determine since they will be providing the warranty. Catalyzed urethane paints do not reflow and technically should only be panel painted as needed to wrap the urethane product completely around for UV stability and general durability. As Martin mentioned there are good back up options such as picking the smallest areas to blend and using strong products to make sure the blended areas don’t fail. Make sure your shop is comfortable providing a warranty for the repair process used.

Good luck!

[Martin Benade]

I also like DuPont 222 , now axalta. Good bends are the work of a master, but a detailing/buffing 5 years later can make it show even though it had looked perfect up until that point. The tapered edge of the paint can (will?) lose its taper.

[Mark Sabbann]

If your car is extremely nice you should be able to insist on a complete repaint of the body, as there are no parting lines to stop the painting. His estimate has "blend refinish" for this reason. They probably would not agree to include the doors and engine lid though, so it is up to the shop to color match well enough that this doesn't become a worse problem than having a nearly invisible blend. If they insist, at least try to get the whole front done, blended on both rockers where it should barely show.

I met with a body shop recommended by vintage Mercedes Benz friends, not just private parties but local mechanical shops and have a good feeling about the body shop. I will be getting a full repaint, because of the lack of parting lines. The body shop prefers to do a job without the need for blending old and new paint so we have a tentative plan on how to proceed and what I can expect. The plan is to use PPG base and clear coat. It won't be a full interior out but behind gaskets etc. will be the tape lines. I will be pulling and reinstalling parts (lights, mirrors, bumpers, door panels etc.) to offset some of the labor outside the insurance allowance. Both front and rear glass will come out and go back in with new seals.

I am looking for photos of stripped cars showing the lead work to share with the body shop just as a basis of information. I have seen some posted, and will search for them.

Regarding the three screws that hold the door latch mechanism, are they meant to be painted over or left unpainted? Today they are painted over but this is a chance to get them right if they were meant to be unpainted.

[Martin Benade]

Those were brush painted at the factory. If you spray them while they are tight they will make a mess if you ever have to remove them. It's probably best to lightly paint them off the car. You will want the latches out anyway.

[Mark Sabbann]

Those were brush painted at the factory. If you spray them while they are tight they will make a mess if you ever have to remove them. It's probably best to lightly paint them off the car. You will want the latches out anyway.

Thanks Martin, that makes sense, painted but not painted-in as they are now.

[Jim Liberty]

Hagerty Insurance is what I have on my cars. They understand the cars, (All of them). Use only a repair shop that does 356s. They are an "Animal" all to themselves. Get the estimate from them, not the insurance company. .........................Jim.

[Adam Wright]

I would search out a shop that know's Porsche, especially 356's. I've seen too many car done by Benz shops and Jag shops to see what can go wrong when you don't know the cars. Remember Jags are lap welded, Porsche are butt welded, that makes a big difference after the fact if you have a Jag shop do the work. They go with what they know. If it was just paint work you'd probably be safe but if they are doing actual panel work, find a Porsche shop.