John Lindstrom wrote:You can always pull the engine loose and unbolt the pressure plate if the hill method doesn’t brake it loose
Thanks, John. Unfortunately, no time to pull the engine... moving trucks heading to my house later this week. Timing couldn't be worse!!!
I'm obviously a slow learner... But I still need more details/specific instructions on the hill method. Sounds like my best bet (given that I have a hill in front of my house).
Dave, the key is to hold the clutch pedal to the floor while the engine is pushing the car. In order to run it up a hill in this manner, you need to start it in gear. Yes, it will buck but if the engine is warm it will start easier. As you run up the hill continue holding the pedal down so that the force of the motor is working against the "rust" on the clutch assembly. If it has only been a couple weeks there shouldn't be a large amount of rust. Just the "bucking" while holding down the pedal may break it loose.
Dave Jones--not only science but a firm grasp of geography, too.
Breaking it loose with the hill method is I believe suggested because you put a greater load on the interface so making it more likely to break loose. No matter which method you apply it is going to break loose only when you have the clutch depressed while the car is in gear and you are moving, but the problem with the hill method is that you have to get the car out to the hill and apparently you can only do that by pushing it or starting it in gear which is entirely possible if you have a good battery because I did it out of necessity many years ago in my 63B when the clutch broke.
If the engine was on jack stands then it would be easier to start the car with it in gear as the car will not move but the wheels will and once the wheels are moving with the clutch depressed and you stamp on the brakes the engine will keep turning and break the interface loose hopefully.
Either way the point is to put a load on the clutch plate/disc with clutch depressed that will persuade it to come unstuck.
If I had known I would live this long I would have pushed the envelope a little harder.
Cymru am byth
David Jones #9715
Ok, we are back on the road. That was painfully EASY! It broke free very quickly.
I guess I'm surprised I haven't had this issue before... While I'm only 2 years with the 356, I've had three 912s over many years, and never had this issue.
Should I use the parking brake rather than leaving the car in first gear during humid months to prevent this?
Thanks again to all of you for the help here! Much appreciated.
Doug McDonnell wrote:Murphy's Law says that now that you know what to do you will never have the problem again. Glad it all worked out for you.
Ha, So true, Doug! Either way, always fun to learn something new. One day I might accumulate enough knowledge to actually contribute to this forum! I'm only 37, so I've got plenty of time...
Half the age of many of us. Great fun learning with the right mindset. Way more humid here 50 miles East of Lake Michigan and I have not yet experienced your problem. Knock on wood.
1965 356C 2000 BMW 740i Sport 1967 Honda CL77 There is never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it over.
Another interesting problem and fix, you guys are amazing! On this topic, the previous owner of my car supplied the car with a stick to wedge between the the fully depressed clutch pedal and the seat bracket to avoid this type of fusion. Is this a good method? I stored my car using the stick this past winter and will be away from the car (stored in garage) here in humid RI for the month of August. Good idea to use it again?
