I'm rebuilding an early-ish engine - a 1957 normal. How do I seal the the acorn nuts and TWO through bolts?
I've not worked on a case like this one before, with two through bolts as opposed to one, and I'm wondering how the acorn nuts and through bolts are sealed.
On the tear-down I noticed the washers are not the bevelled type, but standard flat washers. Underneath these washers was what looked like paper gasket washers covered in sealant. Out of the eight washers, one is the bevelled type that takes the 'o' ring like on the . later cases I have looked at before.
Has anyone any experience of this? What to do?
Sealing Early Case Bolts
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- 356 Fan
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Re: Sealing Early Case Bolts
Original method was a copper washer. Obviously needing replacement each time. Also soft, so did not clamp the case very well.
I would change over to the later beveled washer with O-ring.
I would change over to the later beveled washer with O-ring.
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- 356 Fan
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Re: Sealing Early Case Bolts
Thanks Vic,
I'll switch to bevelled.
I'll switch to bevelled.
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- 356 Fan
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Re: Sealing Early Case Bolts
Adam,
If you switch to the beveled case washers with "o" rings you will need to replace the case through bolts-the bolts that use the copper washers will not allow enough thread engagement with the thicker beveled washers.
If you switch to the beveled case washers with "o" rings you will need to replace the case through bolts-the bolts that use the copper washers will not allow enough thread engagement with the thicker beveled washers.
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- 356 Fan
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Re: Sealing Early Case Bolts
Ah, okay that changes things a little. Trying to keep as original as possible.
- Craig Richter
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Re: Sealing Early Case Bolts
I used to heat those copper washers up with a torch to get them soft again, as they harden from torque and age. Flatten with a sharp fine file and you're good to go. But Vic's suggestion to go with the later beveled washers with O-rings is the best answer.